weber 32/36 carb on an '85

[dlb]

highlander, that's very interesting. i've always had my vac adv. hooked up to the gas filter but have experienced a few of the same minor problems as tom: slight bucking/surging during deceleration or very light throttle, and an erratic idle between 600-800 rpm. i'd like to try your suggestion on hooking this up but i don't know what the throttle plate is (sorry!)--i'm guessing i need to be looking for a port located higher on the carb than where the throttle linkage is. yes? also, i'm not sure where ported vacuum on the weber is so i took a few photos.

this is the only port on the weber i have blocked. it's on the passenger side, just below and in front of the electric choke. this port is significantly larger than all the other vacuum ports though so i don't imagine it would be meant for vacuum stuff.



this brass-coloured port has a screw blocking it off. i used a flat-blade screwdriver to remove it just to see what it was. it's located on the back side of the weber just above the idle adjustment screw and is about the same size as the other vacuum ports. could this be what i'm looking for? i have it hooked up to the vac adv. now and will try it out on the drive home i guess.

[Highlander]

David- the easier way to see if its the right port (since you have it hooked up) is to hook up your timing light and have someone rev it to, say 3500 R's, and note the amount of advance. Then remove the line, plug the port temporarily, and repeat watching how far it advances the timing. If the port is working correctly (applying the correct vacuum at the correct time) then you should see an increase in the advance over and above the mechanical (i.e. when the port is not hooked up) advance at the same RPM.
I couldn't tell from your pictures and description just which plugged port you hooked to, but yes, the throttle plates are on the throttle shafts, so if the port is above the throttle shafts the odds are that it has ported vacuum, not manifold vacuum.
I'm also very sure that if I'm wrong about all of that (I shouldn't be, I've worked with carbs since before I was able to drive) that someone like Splatterdog of 4WD Chico will correct me.
I've been wrong before, that's what I get for thinking
"I thought I was wrong once, but I was mistaken"

[dlb]

sounds groovy. i tried looking at the redline schematics but they had no info on either port i mentioned. i'm heading to my dad's so i'll get him to help me out with the timing light now.

thanks for your help, i'll keep y'all posted.

[dlb]

checked the timing using the method highlander suggested, no luck. i don't know what that port is for but there is no vacuum on it at all.

suggestions?

[dlb]

found some great info and posted it in a separate thread in the repair guides section so that it's easily found in the future. the answer: stick with manifold vacuum.

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=6118

[ebayollis]

what do you guys do with the other 2 wires coming from the plug that went to the oem carb choke.....i cut the 2 except the red one....i ran it to the choke on my weber...is this ok if i just leave the othe 2 wires not hooked up to anything?

[Petros]

you ask AFTER you cut the wires off? better wrap each (separately) with electrical tape so they do not short to anything.

[ebayollis]

ok i got my weber on an working. it idles great but when driving if you apply the gas fast it boggs very badly until it finally catches up with itself. any ideas? do i HAVE to advance the timing if i run the vac line from the dizzy advance to the gas filter or is it just recommended?

[dlb]

no, that is common with them on these cars. they just get more gas than they can handle when you stomp on it. you just have to learn to moderate your foot when you want to punch it.

[ebayollis]

it boggs it so bad that it doesnt even gear down (AUTOMATIC) are you sure it s'posed to bog that bad?

[dlb]

nope. i've got zero experience with automatics so i'm zero help here.

[ebayollis]

Im positive that some thing is wrong. If all Webers bogged this bad no one would have one

[ebayollis]

no one has any ideas?

[splatterdog]

Did you use a new K740 kit or a used carb? Jetting could be wrong with used. Idle jets are easy to check.They are under the big screws on each side of the carb. The jet should come out with the screw. It has a friction fit inside the tip. I'm pretty sure it should be primary .045 or .050 and secondary .050. Main and air corector jets require removal of the top of the carb to check numbers. Check the weberiffic post for numbers I used.

Remove air cleaner and hold choke flap open. Can you see a strong accelerator pump squirt come out on the primary(choke flap) side of the carb when thottle is turned?

I did have a main jet malfunction on the first weber install, after many thousands of miles. It had fell out! Luckily they can be seen with a penlight and air cleaner off. The bowl vent is right above them. They sit right next to each other and the brass screw heads will face the front of the car. Just maybe, jet numbers can be seen thru the vent too. It's single digits here right now, so I'll let you figure that out.

Is the choke over adjusted or heater not working? I can't remember if the weber has a secondary lock out. Most 2 stage carbs do. That carb function keeps the secondaries off until the choke/engine has had time to warm up.

That's what comes to mind, as long as all other basics like ignition system condition/timing, vacuum leaks, fuel pressure/volume aren't an issue.

[deejay1272]

Deleting prior post

(I've concluded that connecting dist vac advance to the gas filter is the right way to go. This is in agreement with everyone else on the Forum!)