Can you guys help me figure out what's best?

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Sun Dec 19, 2004 2:37 pm

Amsoil is goooood stuff. I'm glad to see I'm not the only one who's ever heard of/ used it. We used it in our old Chevy Suburban for a while. Extended tranny and engine life far beyond our previous one, by maybe 20k on the tranny (those only went for 50-60k anyway) and 40k on the engine (we and our friends only had those lasting for 70k normally)
I plan to do a bumper-to-bumper Amsoil conversion once I get the cash flowing. The only thing we need to be worried about as owners of cars with a lot of miles, is the eliminaytion of deposits and varnishes opening up pathways for leaking that were otherwise sealed. Obviously its a problem that gets solved because it is revealed, but it can be anything from no oil leaking to your engine crying a quart every other day. More often than not, it is no to very little oil leaking, but the risk is there.
We have friends who use Amsoil in their Powerstroke trucks and Excursions who can't sing its praises enough- even the Power Steering fluid. Lol. I just scrolled down and saw Teddy's response. See? My points are the same as his.
The only thing that would discourage you from buying it is if you don't want to deal with bad seals and gaskets. Just remember, you'll wind up dealing with them eventually anyway.
Amsoil has pushed huge diesel tractors and semi's well beyond the 1 million mile and equivalent hour run-time mark. It really is good stuff. Near impossible to foam, near impossible to press apart (shear), near impossible to solidify, hardly thins out with temp changes (comperable to most other syns and all petro's), and lasts a long time.
It works well in differentials as well, reducing friction and dampening diff-whine.

I'm actually trying to do odd jobs to get some moolah for my tranny, as in the cold mornings my current fluid feels like sludge.
Don't you hate not being employed?

MootsMan · Post by **MootsMan** » Sun Dec 19, 2004 4:52 pm

Ok, it sounds like AMSOIL is good stuff. Where is the best place to get it ?? Can you get the best deal online ? or auto parts store ? I've never seen it at Wal-Mart that I recall.

What issues would I need to be prepared for if I start using it in my '85 with 140K miles on it ?? Are leaking seals about the only issue ? The car seems to use some oil, but I'm trying to monitor that now since I did an oil change a week ago.

I've used Mobile1 in a couple of my other vehicles, but they are still reasonably low mileage.

Thanks for any information any of you can pass along !!

MJ

Teddy1 · Post by **Teddy1** » Sun Dec 19, 2004 5:18 pm

With only 140K miles on your car, it is unlikely you will see leaks or seal issues.

What Country do you live in? If you live in Canada or the US, tell me what State/County you live in, and I can find you the nearest Amsoil dealer. There is probably one within a mile of your house (unless you live in the DEEP country).

Amsoil is NEVER going to be sold at Wal-Mart.

The day Wal-Mart starts selling Amsoil is the beginning of The End (please reference the book of Revelations for specific details on The End).

MootsMan · Post by **MootsMan** » Sun Dec 19, 2004 6:54 pm

Right on, Teddy ! Trust me, I avoid Wal-Mart whenever possible, but sometimes it's the only reasonable alternative. I'm in the Nashville TN area.

MJ

Teddy1 · Post by **Teddy1** » Sun Dec 19, 2004 7:39 pm

MootsMan:

<a href='http://www.amsoil.com/dealerinfo2.htm' target='_blank'>http://www.amsoil.com/dealerinfo2.htm</a>

That URL includes a contact form... the CLOSEST Amsoil dealers to YOUR location (by proximity) will be found.

I think you will find that your local Amsoil dealer is a cool cat... they ALWAYS seem to be!

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Sun Dec 19, 2004 11:12 pm

I like Wal-Mart, they just started getting on my nerves with their stupid Super-Centers. They're putting everyone out of business except area specialists.. Then again some of them are going out too.

tercel4wdrules · Post by **tercel4wdrules** » Mon Dec 20, 2004 12:22 am

Thanks for the info and tips Teddy. How much is the Amsoil oil for the transmission and engine? What about the engine, could we just replace the seals on it and drive it until it dies? I was simply just going to replace it with a 4A-LC. I think most of the engine oil that leaks comes out from the sides of the valve cover. Should I get a diagnostics on the transmission? I know it's leaking a bit of oil, I don't know if it is from the diff or the transmission. If the transmission is ok, how hard are the seals to replace? The engine must be leaking oil somewhere else because some how the oil ends up on the drivebelts. I probably won't be able to use Amsoil if I have bad seals, I'll see what happens. Oh, I figured out why the transmission shifted into 4WD. When my dad drove it to park it in a building where he works at, we went to go get gas first. It simply didn't want to go into reverse. It would grind badly, but I mean LOUD. Then when it was finally going into reverse I saw the 4WD shifter move a bit, so that how I think it went into 4WD by itself. What's wrong here? So now the car is not being driven anymore to one side of the street to the other. Now, hopefully it is going to stay there until we fix it. It been there for about a week now.

takza · Post by **takza** » Mon Dec 20, 2004 6:10 am

MootsMan wrote: What issues would I need to be prepared for if I start using it in my '85 with 140K miles on it ?? Are leaking seals about the only issue ? The car seems to use some oil, but I'm trying to monitor that now since I did an oil change a week ago.

I've used Mobile1 in a couple of my other vehicles, but they are still reasonably low mileage.

Thanks for any information any of you can pass along !!

MJ

I was using Mobil 1 10W30 synth year-round in two different cars with 144K and 220K miles. Had no leakage problems. Can get it at Walmart in the 5 qt jugs for a good price. A lot of people get good oil tests back with Mobil synth.

Both cars got pretty good oil mileage though.

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Tue Dec 21, 2004 1:27 pm

I would suggest a good flush. Use Amsoil's flushing fluid or a large dose of Sea-Foam. If leaks develop, you know to fix them. If they don't they won't. At least not usually.

tercel4wdrules · Post by **tercel4wdrules** » Sat Feb 26, 2005 1:17 am

Teddy wrote: As mentioned by russkiypenguin, water coming out of your tailpipe is COMPLETELY normal... exhaust systems store water due to condensation, heating/cooling of the exhaust tract, etc. Ignore this phenomenae.

Well this actually was a sign that my head gasket was gone and it sure is now. When we replaced the radiator and flushed the system in April or so last year I saw some tiny black pieces in the coolant and water. I ignored it. A few months later the car overheated again on Wednesday and I looked at the oil cap and sure enough there was that white looking stuff on the oil cap. Not good. We waited a while and filled it up with water and it kept on going. The car wasn't used since the beginning of December. We needed it so we took it. It was odd that all of the coolant/water had "misteriously" disappeared. Water comes out of the tailpipe under hard acceleration as well as a faint white smoke/vapor. It only did that for a while after overheating.

After 65 miles in two days the car got its beating. The clutch and shifting is very bad, but somehow my dad made it keep on going. The shifter was so stiff that when 'shoving it' into gear he hit his fist on the instrument panel. We had to leave the car around 38 miles away from where I live. Riding in the car again brought back a lot of old memories. My dad had trouble shifting to 3rd and all the shifts where rough with plenty of shuddering on take-off. Overall it was a cool experience. Downside- the car is now literally dying. Since we left it so far away from home and we probably won't get a chance to go get it until Sunday, hopefully it survives. Now we need to fix it ASAP otherwise... I check the cap before we left and the white stuff was no longer there, except the oil smells a little burnt (what do you expect from really dirty oil?).

Just in case I took the battery with me, hehe. Why does Carlos hate his name? Because he doesn't want to experience a Carloss (I didn't come up with it, but on of my classmates did).

We left it in an industrial area and it seems like it a nice neighborhood. Can't wait to drive it. Maybe later in the year I will, as in October/November hopefully I will be licensed. I'm hoping the engine doesn't lock up on us as there is plenty of water in the engine oil. We just need it to get back home.

This car doesn't want to die and leave its owner stranded that's for sure. Truly a very good car. That's why I like it. I spoke with an independent Toyota/Honda/Nissan mechanic and he told me, " Just buy another Japanese engine and put oil in it and run it. Forget about everything else." This is the motivation I need. He offered some help, should I need it.

I'm going to replace almost everything that I described and that Teddy told me to do. Well, I better get turning wrenches soon.

tercel4wdrules · Post by **tercel4wdrules** » Tue Mar 01, 2005 10:39 pm

Update:

We got the car back home on Sunday. I miscalculated, it was a 25 almost 26 mile trip with some highway driving, but mostly street. Well all I can say is that it made it back and that it was in one piece. It is a drag to take the battery out and then put it back in. I still don't know when we will begin the repair process. The water is still getting in the combustion chambers because of the faint white-looking vapor.

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Tue Mar 01, 2005 11:20 pm

Oh boy...
You will likely need new bearings and a nice piston boring.. Hopefully it won't take much to get it up to a smooth surface. Now.. As for bearings.. Go for the racing ones. They are hard to find for this engine but THEY ARE OUT THERE! Especially if you have aspirations for engine modification. You may need new internals, i.e. crank and cons. Pistons will have to be done if it is bored out. Have to buy the oversized ones.
I dunno how hard forged or billet things are to find for this engine.. It certainly would be fun to see one of these pumping out 250 horses. Keeping up with the AGE's.. lol... ages.. nevermind.
The tranny will likely need a rebuild if the clutch has been out for a long time. Lots of excess stress of the tranny. If you can afford it.. Maybe look into Chrome-Moly Steel gears and shafts? They can take a vewry large beating.

$$$$$$ is the issue here.

(sheds a tear for his baby)

tercel4wdrules · Post by **tercel4wdrules** » Wed Mar 02, 2005 3:23 pm

I hope the transmission can hold up a little longer. I can't afford to replace it right now. I can only replace the engine and the brakes, clutch, and suspension as well as the rear bearings. The transmission will set me back like $400. I'll look into my 3A-G (3A-C head with 4A-GE block) as I've heard the 4A-GE block being stronger and then cross-hatch it for strength, then we can talk about 250 hp.