Oil Pan gasket seal change

Mac · Post by **Mac** » Thu Jul 26, 2007 11:21 pm

bearings don't fail unless the seal fails and coolant gets at them, and the seal usually fails because of what i mentioned above.

neonsport · Post by **neonsport** » Thu Jul 26, 2007 11:42 pm

Mac wrote:bearings don't fail unless the seal fails and coolant gets at them, and the seal usually fails because of what i mentioned above.

Bearings can fail if the outer seal fails, which I've seen happen. Bearings can also fail from excessive tension of the belt, also something I've seen a number of times (and usually caused by DIYers who don't know how to measure deflection and just crank the tension till it won't take any more). Coolant is not the only cause of bearing failure.

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Fri Jul 27, 2007 12:24 am

Hmm.
Belt tension also screws water pumps.
Belt tension is just slightly important to get right. Lol.
What about gas in your oil? (Bad fuel pump seal)
What about bad oil?
Excessive revs for too thin an oil or a low quality oil?
How about old oil?

How about no oil?

lol.
Sorry. Just couldn't resist.

Oh wait! LOL. Now don't I feel stupid. You were talking water pumps the whole time. Carry on.

BTW, you can actually fry your main bearings from excessive belt tension.

How much does anyone recommend those lube additives for coolant? How about things like Water Wetter? I've heard only good things, but I want more opinions.

splatterdog · Post by **splatterdog** » Fri Jul 27, 2007 9:27 am

When the majority of people start to maintain either their new car or the 20+ year one they are selling me I will have more faith in common failure parts. Also when somebody invents and/or parts manufacturers use lifetime automotive grade sealed bearings with grease that doesn't harden.

Neither will likely happen

Some of us would not even have a T4WD if it wasn't for someone else's neglect. My 84 came off a tow jockeys hook and the 85 was headed for one.

Mac · Post by **Mac** » Tue Jul 31, 2007 10:34 pm

neonsport wrote:
Mac wrote:bearings don't fail unless the seal fails and coolant gets at them, and the seal usually fails because of what i mentioned above.
Bearings can fail if the outer seal fails, which I've seen happen. Bearings can also fail from excessive tension of the belt, also something I've seen a number of times (and usually caused by DIYers who don't know how to measure deflection and just crank the tension till it won't take any more). Coolant is not the only cause of bearing failure.

you got me there.

brianp · Post by **brianp** » Tue Aug 21, 2007 8:21 pm

So, I'm finally doing this now; I made good progress this evening, and got all the way down to the crankshaft pulley. The pulley bolt came out surprisingly easy, which was nice. Now I have to pull the main pulley off. Are there alternatives to getting a puller, or should I just get one? I guess they aren't that expensive...

takza · Post by **takza** » Wed Aug 22, 2007 4:16 am

Since the pulley bolt came out easy it was probably loose...expect a sloppy key fit?

Depends on how snug it is...I usually start by trying to pry them off...but not using too much muscle...weak cast iron. Penetrant helps.

viewtopic.php?t=616

brianp · Post by **brianp** » Wed Aug 22, 2007 9:38 pm

So I got a puller, and it worked great to get the main pulley off.

After a few more things, I'm trying to get the lower timing belt pulley off. (this is right behind the main pulley). This thing won't budge! I've pried behind it, and no luck...

I guess I should pick up some penetrating oil or spray? Thanks all.

splatterdog · Post by **splatterdog** » Wed Aug 22, 2007 9:51 pm

First buff off the exposed rust with a wire wheel or scotchbrite. Penetrant and heat applied to the sprocket and carefull prying got both of mine moving. Once it's off, removing the rest of the rust should make it a slip fit. Do this before removing the seal to keep debris out.

Also don't forget to lube the seal lip before pushing it in.

takza · Post by **takza** » Thu Aug 23, 2007 4:43 am

I actually used a chisel and a large screwdriver wedged behind the gear and hammered on to get it out far enough to get a puller on it. Not really recommended since that is the alum oil pump behind the gear. It was winter and I was outside.

I had cleaned up the rust and used penetrant.

keith · Post by **keith** » Thu Aug 23, 2007 5:30 pm

If you use a puller, put the crank bolt back in so you don't damage the threads on the crank.

Since aluminum expands more than steel, a butane torch should free it up. But I would soak it overnight in a penetrating oil, that always worked for me.

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Thu Aug 23, 2007 5:59 pm

Just watch the oil and your marking. It'll strip it off >.<

brianp · Post by **brianp** » Sat Aug 25, 2007 7:00 pm

Well, I finished the job today. That pulley was really hard to get off, it was slow the whole way, using a small puller. (The puller was wrecked by the end, but it was $5 well spent.

) I guess when my water pump had failed a couple months ago, it was leaking down onto the shaft, and rusted the pulley in place.

I found that it was much easier to try and pull out the seal with a blade on the inner side, next to the shaft, instead of on the outside.

But, put it all back together, with anti-seize on the shaft, and black silicone on the oil pan seam, and it seems to work fine. No leaks so far, we'll see how it does this week.

I replaced the belts too, while I was at it. Better safe than sorry.