2013 California Smog Test & New Stricter Testing Requirement

[lurvemytercel]

Hiya folks:

Have to do the dreaded smog test again this year when I renew my registration. The law changed and the requirements to pass are harder AND they now monitor the STAR stations with a web cam. Nice touch, Big Brother.

So looking for how I can make my car run as clean as possible to pass. I'm trying to find out if a pre-test can still be done. And if the DMV will provide and extension to repair the car if it won't pass.

I spoke to my mechanic and we discussed the obvious: change the oil and filter, new air filter, new fuel filter, tune up... We did the distributor cap and spark plugs about four years ago -- I haven't put a lot of miles on it since then. So not sure if that needs to be done again.

I know about running it on premium gasoline and have been doing that and also making sure the tires are properly inflated.

I put a new radiator in the car in April -- it's totally aluminum and filled with coolant -- my temp gauge hasn't even moved since I had this done so from what I've read, this will help a little bit.

Any other suggestions you might have that will help me pass the test are greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

lurve my tercel

[TominMO]

How's your catalytic converter?
And you can try putting a can of "Guaranteed to Pass" into your gas tank. Read the directions on the can: I'm not sure if you are supposed to go through that tank with the additive, and then refill.
I'd at least pull the disty cap and check out that there is no buildup on the contact points, as well as on the rotor; might try some E3 spark plugs for cleaner burning. And advancing the ignition timing a little, for the same reason. There is no paticular reason to use premium gas, except to give you some protection against detonation (knock) when advancing the timing.

Edit: when you install the spark plugs, try to "index" them. This involves putting a small dot at the top of the porcelein, above where the opening is on the two electrodes. The dot is so you can tell where the electrode opening is when the plug is installed. Then when you install them, you want the dot to face the intake valve (i.e., face the carbutetor). The reason for doing this is to ensure that as much spark as possible is available to the incoming fuel charge. If the plug is facing the other way, then the bottom electrode actually masks the spark to some degree, as it curves down from the body of the plug. It does not have to be perfect, just make sure it is within 90 degrees of facing the intake valve. Not a critical factor, but every little bit helps.

[Petros]

if you have carbon build-up on the pistons, you can try the engine flush: use Gumout or Seafoam or something similar, rev the engine with the air cleaner assembly off and pour the gumout down the carb until it stalls out and let it sit overnight. Start in the morning, may take some starter spray, and blow it out the exhasut. It will loosen the carbon build-up and clean up the combustion chamber, lowers the compression slightly and prevents detonation. After you put in new spark plugs, set the spark timing at 5 deg BTDC, and you might try the gasoline additive that is supposed to help you pass the test (I do not know how it helps since we do not have that problem here on a car this old, but it seems there should be some additives that should help emissions).

You might cap off both sides of your AAP for the test, just to make sure it is not leaking extra fuel into the intake manifold.

After passing the test reset the spark timing to 10 deg BTDC or you risk damaging your exhaust valves.

Premium fuel only helps if you have a detonation problem.

[Mark]

I was under the impression that advancing the timing will hurt emissions somewhat. Like Petros said, I'd set it at the stock 5 degrees BTDC.

[Petros]

advaced timing, and the higher compression from the carbon build-up, results in higher NOx emissions because of the higher peak combustion temperatures and pressures. So it would help to have any carbon build-up removed and have the time at no more than 5 deg BDTC (might even set it at 4 for the test). But it also means that with lower combustion temps and pressures, the economy and max output would be lower, so after the test reset it to 10 deg BTDC. More of the fuel will be burned before the exhaust valve opens for the exhaust stroke, so the exhaust temps are lower and it will have longer exhaust valve life.

I have seen many times, overheated exhaust valves on stock engines that get damaged or break off, often trashing the whole engine. I am sure California would be happy if that happens, but that will not help you at all, and it is not "green" to send an otherwise good car to the crusher.

[TominMO]

Petros, you jogged my memory. Yes he should retard the timing a little, not advance it, just for the test.

[keith]

If your oil is clear almost like fresh oil, OK. But if your oil turns dark within a couple hundred miles of an oil change, then do another one. This is the best way to clean out any residual dirty oil and sludge. You may even have to do two oil changes back to back, but I would first just go to the testing station and see if it passes now.

Oil burning causes the HC to be high. Oil goes through a process in order to burn and smoke. absolutely clean oil, like right after an oil change will first start to break down and become more viscous. after several cycles of this, then the oil reaches the stage where it becomes sludge, coke or smoke. So get it tested while the oil is fresh and less likely to smoke. If the blowby is bad enough due to bad rings, the oil will smoke on first go around and there is little you can do about that. BTW, synthetic oil will generally smoke less as it is thermally stable at higher temperatures.

Make sure that your mechanical advance and the vacuum advance are both working. There is a port on the bottom of the distributor that serves to drain any water that might accumulate inside it, it is right below the mechanical advance weights. You can spray oil up into this port with a spray can of oil and one of those little red hoses that they come with to lubricate the weights. If both the vacuum and mechanical advances are working properly, then set the distributor to 5 degrees BTDC per specs.

After that, there isn't much you can do other than make sure the choke isn't sticking. If you don't pass then, repairs are probably going to be expensive.

[john]

On Oct. 20, 2011 I started a topic about my tercel which had just failed Ca smog. It was off the charts bad. Our members gave me many tips and ideas and my car passed with really low emisions.. I do not know how to make a link to the thread but you probably find it by the date 10-20-11. Tons of great ideas.

This October I am due to get smogged again. It should be easy this time, even in the San Joaquin Valley's enhanced smog test area.

best of luck. john

[TominMO]

That would be this thread:
https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php? ... 106#p52106