Petros wrote:Welcome to the list DiNka!
That engine is a mess, there is no way you will get it to idle/run correctly in that condition. Where are you located btw, down under?
Anyway, you will either have to track down all the missing parts of the fuel management/emissions controls systems, or work out a way to by-pass them. You might also consider installing a Weber carb to eliminate need for the vacuum system, kind of costly way to go and it too takes some messing around. Some of the vac systems on the carb/engine are important for good drivability with the factory carb, that is why many will switch to the Weber if they are going to "de-vac" the engine. You can make the stock carb work without all the vac equipment, but you will have to study the systems and see what you need to leave connected and what not.
First thing you must do is cap off all of the vacuum line ports with either caps made from a short section of vac line with a screw in it, or go buy several packages of "test caps" from an auto parts store. In the FSM in the emissions control chapter there are good explanations of what each system does and from there you can figure out how to by-pass them. You can completely remove and cap off the EGR system, and if you have the engine with the High Altitude Compensator (HAC), that too can just be removed the line capped off. All of the lines that went to the vacuum advance on the distributor can also be capped off, later once you sort it out you might connected up the advance line only, but the others can go and it will still run fine without any of them working.
I can also see that the throttle dash pot push rod is disconnected, this slows the last bit of travel of the throttle plate so it does not slam shut (spiking the emissions when it does), it should run okay without it but you will have to have the idle speed a bit high (like 800-900 rpm). The choke opener is disconnected as well, this device opens the choke when you stomp on the throttle, so the choke does not kill the engine, when the engine is cold. Once the engine is warm and choke is open it will not affect engine operation. There are two electric solenoids, one that cut the fuel supply off when you down shift to prevent excess fuel from getting drawing into the engine, the other shuts off the fuel supply when you turn off the engine to prevent it from dieseling. with the computer and the appropriate thermal and vacuum switches neither of these systems will operate. The same is true with the low speed mixture control, this a device that sits on the right fender that bleeds air under the carb during low speed operation to control the mixture, again with the right sensors and the ECU this will not operate properly. Not sure of the implications of not having this in operations, I guess it might run a bit rich, which should not harm drivablity.
There is a vacuum valve on the intake manifold in front of the carb that is busted, this is the source of the vacuum for all the vac operated devices. You will need to replace this with a plug if you want to stop the vacuum leaks, or with the correct fitting if you want to restore any of the vac system.
You should be able to make it all work reasonably well, but you will have to do some homework and some experimenting. Good luck.
When I was in high school in 1974 a friend of mine bought his first car that was a Cortina (1964 I think), in Torrance California. It was fun to drive, but that poor engine was beat, I helped him with it as much as I knew about cars than, but he eventually sold it since we determined the engine needed a complete overhaul (compression was real low in one cylinder, and not good in the others).
Thanks a lot for that info mate I will look into the pdf I downloaded, I DIY most of the things as I'm learning Automobile engineering in the near future and way I took more clear pics and I marked the lines that seem to be odd that needs capping and would love to know what they do
Ps I'm From Sri Lanka and as you said I will have to work hard and find by passes coz this has no ECU what so ever and I drove it 100Km straight in one go and I only pumped 12Liters of Gas.
I've seen some huge pipes going some where near the Carb in some pics and Vids I saw Mine has nothing and some time i see Spit of engine oil coming out of it.
These Needs capping right and what are they
The Wire Is broken I guess and What does this solenoid do ? Keep the idle right ?
Am i right ?
What the hell is this
What is this ? This has NO cap as well-
Whats this and yeah no cap
EDIT-
Some pics of the carb after I removed for cleaning some time back
If you look at this pic it has a white and a Black wire but the white is grounded ? and the Black needs a Positive I suppose
Cheers.
Wollaaaaaaa Engine smoother I could feel it now time to go a lil ride soon after I get the Tyres 
