Removing AC

[tercle]

Where do you get caps to plug the AC components?
The FSM says to cap the open fittings to keep moisture out of the system.

I am replacing the heater core and I think I am pulling the AC system out while I am at it.
Can I leave the cooling unit in the dash?
I know I have to remove it to remove the heater core, but I could put it back with caps on it maybe.
I don't know anything about air conditioning.

Maybe I will install and charge it later...

Or should I just toss it?
It is an automatic transmission car, so it doesn't have extra power to spare.

[dlb]

i just did this on my project car, which is also an automatic. it doesn't get hot enough here for AC and it was in the way. i didn't bother removing anything from the dash since it's not in the way and doesn't weigh much. i just removed the pump that sits in the alternator bracket and all of the lines and miscellaneous other AC stuff that ran around the engine bay, taking up valuable wrenching space. i also removed the button from the heater control panel, just so there was no confusion with future owners about whether the car actually has AC or not. be sure to empty the system via the schrader (sp?) valves before you pull it apart though. you don't want a faceful of those chemicals.

FYI, as long as the AC is not actually in use, it does not eat up any hp. it is only once you turn it on that it creates extra work for the engine. like i said, i have no use for AC and prefer more space in the engine bay but if it's power you're concerned about, it's not an issue if you don't turn it on.

[tercle]

Yeah. It definitely takes up wrenching space.
I have been replacing the head, head gasket, timing belt tensioner, thermostat (fail-safe), hoses, etc.
Mostly in the rain.
I got it almost finished, and something is dripping coolant on the exhaust pipe/cat converter.
The heater core!
That does it.
The dear AC isn't cute anymore.

There's more than one valve?

[ARCHINSTL]

A couple of years ago I removed the entire AC system (save for the forward condenser).
I was really in search of more heater flow, as well as getting rid of some of the clutter in the engine bay - the compressor was locked up solid anyway and there was no R12 in it either.
I thought I'd have to rig a "spacer" tube between the blower and the heater core, but found a (no longer active) member who was selling a range of stuff, and got an OE tube from a non-AC car; it fit perfectly, of course. It was simply amazing how clogged the AC core was with assorted dreck; I'm surprised ANY air got through it to the heater!
Naturally, the air flow was dramatically improved - I would wholeheartedly endorse seeking out this "tube" from non-AC junkers. Someone mentioned once that the Corollas of that vintage used the identical system, but that is anecdotal - check the EPC sticky in the Parts Forum.

Also see: https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2& ... 603#p34603
And https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4& ... 057#p38057
And https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4& ... ter#p44783
Read the whole threads in the above.
Also read this post - https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6& ... ter#p49255
Tom M.

[Petros]

if your system does not have refrigerant in it, you can just remove it all and not worry about it. I have removed several A/c units from Tercels, I have never felt I needed an A/C living around here. I think you will need the non-a/c duct to remove the evaporator out from under the dash, but you might be able to remove the evaporator and use duct tape on the old duct to close off the various openings in it for the a/c equipment. Than when you find the correct ducts you can swap it out later, it is easy to replace the ducts. Replacing the heater core is not so easy, you have to remove almost the whole dash and the related ducts and equipment. be careful with the many plastic parts and clips, they get brittle with age.

Personally, I would stop a heater core leak with radiator stop leak. works good for this kind of leak and will give you some time to plan replacing it later when the weather is better.

[tercle]

Thanks, all.

[tercle]

Anyone need any or all as-is air conditioning parts?
I don't know what most of these gizmos are called.

[TURTCEL]

Petros said:
"Personally, I would stop a heater core leak with radiator stop leak. works good for this kind of leak and will give you some time to plan replacing it later when the weather is better."[/quote]

I understand that the heater core is a real pain of a job but out of curiosity do you not have any concern with clogging the new radiator or any of the water jackets with the stop leak? I have always disliked these products unless it is an emergency.

An old school trick to stop minor cooling system leaks is adding a little black pepper to the coolant. It will plug small holes and has less of a chance of clogging the system. Just another option.

Peace

[Petros]

I have seen black pepper work as well, it acts exactly the same way as the stop-leak, some brand actually use plant cellulose which does the same thing the pepper does (though I would imagine it is not quite as tasty).

No, I have no fear of it harming anything in the cooling system, there is a lot false "common knowledge" mythology that floats around repair shops and shade trees about these products being "bad" for your cooling system, plugging them up. The truth is that almost every car manufacturer installs some kind of stop-leak product in their brand new cars from the factory, that way they do not have take time time to track down every mis-installed gasket, casting porosity or other minor system leak, they do not even fight it, they just included stop-leak in their radiator fluid mix. Do you think the manufacturers would do this if it would harm the car's cooling system?

there is nothing in the cooling system that has holes that tiny to get plugged. In fact small passages created big cooling problems, uneven cooling, localized boiling and result in heat damage. The automotive products are tiny fibers designed to stay in solution, and get "caught" in the smaller holes in the system, which are presumably all leaks. Both red pepper and black pepper will do the same thing, but the size of the granules may not be optimum for use in the cooling system, that is why I would prefer to use the stuff actually designed for car radiators. I had a friend that stopped by my office with a big crack in the top plastic radiator header leaking coolant everywhere, he asked if I had any pepper. I did and he put about 2 table spoons of it in the radiator cap with the engine running. We sat there and watched the leaky crack slowly stop leaking. I did not think it would work in a plastic radiator header, he drove the car another year and than sold it with the pepper still in the coolant.

I have used it lots of times with no ill-effects at all. Not sure I would consider it a permanent long term fix, but no harm will come from it. I have torn down engines and inspected radiator that I had put stop-leak in it, and I found no issues with the rad at all, same with the head, the engine block had a some flaky stuff in the bottom of the water jacket, no build up or significant amount, just where some settled out of the coolant.

I once had an old (1954) international Harvester farm tractor I used on my property. It had a 4 cylinder continental diesel engine in it and a massively large radiator that leaked like a sieve, it had really large coolant tubes in it. I was considering removing it and having it rebuilt (you can not buy them new), but it would require removing the massive front loader, the front PTO and the heavy iron grill to even get at it, way too much work. I put in two large bottles of heavy duty Barrs leak and it never leaked again for many years, even sold it five years later (got tired of always fixing it so I could use it). I would drain out the coolant each fall and refill it each spring when I needed to use it again (it was not designed to use anti-freeze), and it never leaked so the Barrs leak sealed up the holes (and stayed in the leaks) and the rest just drained out. Never did get around to repairing the radiator, it also permanently stopped a small leak around the water pump shaft.

I have no issues with it, and think it is a great invention. the real problem is what caused the leak in the first places, if the radiator or some fitting is corroding away, the stop leak will only buy you some time, and not make a permanent fix.