87 tercel 1.5 12 valve with strange starting problem

[amcr68]

I am having a few problems staring the car and i havent narrowed it down to what it could be yet. I try to start my car and it clicks but doesnt turn over . Other times the starter does turn over and then i press the gas pedal and it eventually starts. Right after it starts there is this water rushing through the dashboard type noise . this may it fact be totally irrelevant. One reason i am concerned about this starting problem is that i read the single barrel venturi carb on the 87 model isnt very good. A teflon coating on something wears out and then gas metering is not accurate anymore.the idle is high also and if i press the accelerator, the engine cuts out. After a few minutes, this goes away. I am not sure if i should get a new carb or try to tinker with this one .

tercel 87 1.5 hatchback two door 12 valve . ( sorry its not 4wd)

ps the gear reduction starter might also be the problem

[ARCHINSTL]

I'm sure someone will respond, but your car is actually a Gen III, which is totally different.
Our wagons (2WD and 4WD) were continued throughout '87 and into early '88, but they were still Gen II Tercs with a different engine and drive system than your series (even the 2WDs). The Gen II sedans ended with 1986.
You might have better luck on Toyota Nation or TercelOnline (if it is still around).
Tom M.

[Lil Beast]

For your starter issue it sound like a bad wire! Maybe vers de gris in the big main wire that leads to starter, slice it a bit and look if some white powdery stuff is in it, if so replace! Not sure about the watery noise! But for the engine stalling when pressing gas, try to unplug the electric wire on the air cleaner bowl on the passenger side near the firewall, and try if it revs slightly higher and won't stall after, replace that sensor or endure it unplug! Had that problem on a 88 1/2 tercel! I left it unplugged ran great, but sometime would diesel when you'll turn off cause of the higher revs, I use to put on drive to slow rpm and turn it off! That's about the only thing that come's to my mine considering you've check the timing and other adjustment!

[Petros]

Welcome to the list,

Though your car is very different from the 2nd gen Tercel, I am familiar with this engine. First of all clean your contacts on the battery terminals and at the starter end, and the ground end of the main cables. You also might have the battery capacity checked at a place that sells batteries (they will do it for free). The carb might need cleaning, but you have to check if the autochoke is working (easy check), and you have no vacuum leaks. Inspect all of your vac lines for being connected, cracks or leaks, etc. Easy to do when it is running, use can of carb cleaner spray and spray it on all the vac lines, and the base of the carb, manifold gasket, etc. and when the carb cleaner gets in it will change the engine speed. That is where the leak would be located.

good luck.

where do you live?

[marlinh]

The starting issue could be the contacts and plunger that are internal to the starter. Over time they pit and become uneven causing a no start problem occasionally and sometimes fusing and keeping the starter engaged after the key is released. Aftermarket supply shops carry new contacts and I've had luck with carefully filing the plunger til it is flat and smooth again. If you get caught somewhere and the car won't crank a good way of determining if it is the contacts is to tap the starter gently with a block of wood or something similar. Sometimes you may need to have a helper hold the key in the crank position if the contacts are really bad. It should start cranking after a few taps given that the wiring to and from the starter is good and the battery ok.

[Jarf]

My first turtle was a Gen 3 car too.
Don't believe a word about those carbs being a problem, there are the greatest Variable Venturi carb made in modern times.
Almost as good as an SU-style carb from a 240Z.
The biggest problem they had was being misunderstood and occasionally confused with the FORD VV carb of the same era (which by the way was a horrible POS)

That said, even with all it's electronic feedback it is still a carb. which means you MUST pump the throttle 1-2 times prior to cranking.
When the engine is warm and you turn it off, the choke is fully open.
Once the engine has cooled down, several things happen to re-engage the choke, but until the throttle is opened, it cannot actually close.
This assumes that all the linkages are free.

Those carbs are reasonably easy to rebuild, I did mine and had no "teflon issues", wasn't even aware of it's existence (urban myth perhaps??)
If both solenoids are working and you have no vacuum leaks, life is good.

However, the fact that it tends to stall until it is warmed up, does indicate a vacuum leak or at the very least a choke circuit issue.

Water rushing sounds in the dash can be caused by one of 2 things (usually).
!) low coolant.
2) plugged cowl drains and if it has AC, also check the evaporator drains.