Sway bar cushion replacement

[EliRush]

Hi all,
My front sway bar end link cushions are shot, and I have been looking at the replacements and the FSM. Can I replace these with universal polyurethane end link bushings? Like the kind used for sway bars on larger vehicles.

Would they work front and rear? Haven't looked at the rear yet.

Thanks!

[ARCHINSTL]

While this is not exactly the answer I think you are looking for - look in the Part Numbers - OE and Aftermarket Forum for OE numbers and costs; separate threads for front and rear.
Tom M.

[dlb]

eli, use the search function on this. i know there has been some talk about it already but can't remember exactly what was said. i think it was probably petros, synthdesign, and maybe the guy who is really into ice racing who were talking about this the most.

[EliRush]

dlb, I've tried searching and haven't come up with much. I did find a picture of the poly cushions sold by someone (not OEM), and I think I can just work on 3 or 4 poly bushings onto the bar. I think this will work better than the metal to metal I have clunking now, and it is cheaper than the 150 to get OEM cushions put on at the shop. As long as I can get the bar off, I think it will work.

If you have links to any posts, I would love to see. I search for all kinds of keywords and don't come up with a lot, then browsing. My Google-fu is strong...just not seeing it.

[takza]

You need to be careful as to what you put on the ends of the bar....if it's too stiff you can fatigue the metal...I'd stick with rubber.

[Lil Beast]

You can measure the O.D. And I.D. Of the bushings and see if they can match it with a polyurethane at a part store!!

[Jarf]

Eli - it isn't JUST a sway bar, it also acts as a lateral link to locate the front wheel's fore/aft position and at the same time allows vertical movement.
I once added an O-ring under the outboard washer (old bar/ new bushes) right side, hoping to deal with a slight clunk, just that little bit and I lost all suspension movement on the RS, car was undrivable.

This is one repair that really needs to be done right.
Do a search, there are plenty of threads on the subject and a couple of horror stories about what happens when they fail.
Not pretty and potentially very dangerous.
(Ed. by ARCHINSTL)

If you are willing to pull the bar to do a makeshift repair, why not just pull the bar and install the CORRECT parts form the dealer.
That way you aren't paying labour, you get the right parts installed, eliminate all the guesswork and save a bunch of time.
(running around trying to find bushes that will work, then modifying them, then the test drive to see if it even worked, then redoing a 2nd time when you realize it didn't work)

If you take your time and drink a lot of beer, it shouldn't take more than a couple of hours.

[ARCHINSTL]

Since you live where there is snow - is it accompanied by salt?
If so - what Jarf said!
Snow and no salt?
What Jarf said!
Tom M.

[EliRush]

Yeah Jarf I am slowly coming to that realization. Thought I could cheap out.

[ARCHINSTL]

Member SweetwaterJoe updated the Butler (and some others) dealer costs for complete swaybar bushings only from my 2007 cost of $88 to the 2011 cost of $117 - it's not $150.
You might be able to get away without the 2 bushings to X-member, but why not replace all? If you are gonna keep the car, you'll never have to take it off again...

NOTE - see the EDIT I made to Jarf's post - really important, and DO look at some of the pix of removed swaybars that were necked down.
Apart from the trans, this is about the only Achilles Heel (literally as well as figuratively) of our little guys.
And this one can be dangerous.
Tom M.

[EliRush]

Arch, they wanted $99 for the bushings, and $50 to put them in. I don't know whether they meant all of them or just the ones on the end links. I hope it is all, because they have to remove the bar anyways.

I will just get them done. I think my thump is just a blown strut, and the bushings can wait a little while.

[ARCHINSTL]

Well, cost for just the end bushings and the hardware is about $82 and not $99...
MAKE SURE they install the hardware as well and particularly the sleeves!
MAKE SURE they look carefully at the ends of the bar to ensure they are not necked down!
It's honestly not that hard to install yourself.
Tom M.

[Petros]

The poly bushings likely would cost a bit more than the stock rubber ones. The first gen '85-88 MR2 uses very similar bushings as our sway bar mounts and there are poly bushings available for the MR2. I think if your existing bar is in good condition (no rust or wear) you can likely put on the stiffer poly bushings without an issue, but if they are stiffer they may not last as long.

these guys sell poly bushings for the mr2: http://toyheadauto.com/PerformancePages ... hings.html

If you get the size of the bushings from your car (if any are still good) and call them they likely can match it.

The factory bushings will likely last the longest, and there is no reason you can not install them yourself. IF you keep driving with out any bushings you will do damage to the antisway bar ends, so you better get it fixed soon. But frankly, $50 in labor is not a bad deal.

[Jarf]

Most repair shops are looking to produce the most work in the least time possible, it is a business after all.

If you do it, you will clean up all the rust, paint the parts that should be, chase the threads, replace ALL the washers and spacers and sleeves, and bushings.
You will take the time to free frozen bolts, if the sleeves are "one" with the bar, you wont mind wasting an hour or 2 to make it right, not all shops will.
You might even decide to replace the bar-to-frame rubbers while you're in there.
You can lubricate and anti-seize the appropriate parts and ensure that the repair will last as long as possible, not just be off the hoist as fast as possible.

This really is a simple repair, the only time it gets hard is if you accidentally flip the bar over, then it is a bugger to install, goes in easy when it is right side up.

When I replaced mine I found very slight rust (necking down) and didn't think it to be an issue, but still had some clicking over bumps.
Tracked down a NEW bar and finally got around to installing it along with all new hardware, again, just to be sure.
Life is much better now.

[Petros]

I went and looked up the site I linked above, and they list the front anti-sway bar to lower control arm bushing set or our Tercel (4 bushings and 2 tubes) for only $52.80. much less that the factory rubber, might be worth a try.