Thermostat Recommendations

[ARCHINSTL]

I've been thinking about replacing the thermostat - it is 3 1/2 years old.
The heat has become less hot, despite what the the guage shows. I plan on removing the radiator (OE-all metal) and having it boiled out this Spring, when I do the the timing belt and associated bits. It has no discernible deposits and the coolant is still a clear green.
The one in it is a genuine Toy stat, then $18 (Butler now $16-local STL now $20+). I've been thinking about a Fail-Safe brand, about $14 at AZ, or a Beck-Arnley, also about $14 at ADV. The latter does have a jiggle valve, whereas the former does not. I was surprised to see a lot of negative comments and complaints about the Fail-Safe from owners of cars from Jeeps to Chevys to assorted Toys.

Suggestions? I've done a Search here, but no specific brands recommended. The Toy from 2008 did not super impress me, from a heating standpoint, even back then. The upper and lower hoses were new in 2005, with about 16K miles now on them. The cap is also new - Stant 10327 with the flipper thing.
Tom M.

[4wdchico]

Stock t'stat. Yes it is not the hottest one out there, but is the least likely to fail.

I'd replace the upper and lower rad hoses and any heater hoses that are starting to get brittle.

[Petros]

Upper hose is under the most pressure, if in doubt I would replace it. Lower hose holds up pretty good.

NAPA has a premium t-stat I have been happy with, about $16 if I remember. I do not know who supplies beck-arnly but my local parts guy says that B-A has gone down hill in terms of quality in recent years, after a buy out.

If your heater output is low you might consider flushing the heater core out. If the water temp is "normal" (sensor at front of head) but you have low heat output, likely cause is deposits in the heater.

[Lil Beast]

Bought mine at NAPA and I do believe the box was beck arnley. Works good espacially summer I think the dealer told me it was rated at 140f, don't get much heating as the engine stays so sold had to unplug my rad fan for the winter to get a bit of heat! As far as I'm concern everything works well cause if I let idle for 15 min the temp goes pretty high, no fan remember and the heater follows up with the heat of engine it gets pretty hot!

[ARCHINSTL]

I forgot to mention that I bought molded heater hoses from Butler last year to replace the 1986 hoses and intended to do the vinegar and/or Coke heater core flush last Fall but did not get around to it. That will be done at the same time as the previously-mentioned work.

I did check out the NAPA site and it has dozens of thermostats for the T4WD - and no pricing.

Thanks!
Tom M.

[Petros]

you have to pick a local store to get prices. It is in the upper part of the NAPA website, when you pick a store it will give you price and if they have it in stock or not. Appearantly they have different prices for some parts in different locations, likely due to shipping costs differnaces.

If you have factory hoses that are only 4 years old, I would think they would be just fine unless they were damaged. Also watch out for those moulded heater hose (the lower one has to be specifically molded to the car, no way to make regular hose work), they also last a long time but will eventually give up, espcially if oil or other chemicals get on them. Most of the the heater hoses I have seen on Tercel4wd are as old at the car!

[4wdchico]

Granted, they only have 16k on them, but I stand by my suggestion to replace your 7 year old upper & lower rad hoses.

I will replace an upper rad hose every two years if the car is driven lots & leave it on up to 3 years if the car does not see lots of miles. For lower rad hoses I will double the service interval that I use for the upper hoses.

Possibly overkill? I suppose so. However, those who have blown a motor due to a rad hose failing will always wish that they had replaced just the hose and not the motor or whole car.

Cooling system neglect is the number one killer of older cars.

[takza]

I've been thinking about replacing the thermostat - it is 3 1/2 years old.
The heat has become less hot, despite what the the guage shows.

The one in it is a genuine Toy stat, then $18 (Butler now $16-local STL now $20+). I've been thinking about a Fail-Safe brand, about $14 at AZ, or a Beck-Arnley, also about $14 at ADV.

I'd vote to forget the Failsafe...all it is is a regular thermosat with a couple of catches built in that cause it to remain open if the coolant gets too hot. Sort of pointless cause if the thermo is working...it is going to be open anyway?

You could almost justify buying a Toyota one...the usual parts store brand in my truck only allows the coolant to get to 160F in winter after I finally checked it yesterday....a piece of crap. Pay the extra $4 or so and do the job 1x?

[toughtercel]

The age of the top/ lower radaitor hoses does'nt count the problem , it where the "BEND' on the hose is the weak spot ( soft), you just swesh with your hand at the bend compare the straight, you'll notice the differance .If whole length of hose feel pretty stiff or soft as roll of toilet paper then it considering as short life exspand.
Start the motor as cold , put your hand on the lower rad hose( that where thermostate is ) while the motor warming it up ,wait till it get warmer with in a minute then thermostate is stuck open , also it cause not hot enough at the heater . If the lower hose take long time to get hot ( 10 Min or more ) then major problem with thermosate stuck close . Replace it ASAP.
Finally , If you flush the hearter core , it will help to built more heat but only for short time , best is to replace it , BUT BRFORE YOU DO THAT , double check if the heater core is fulted , put your hand on two ends of heater core hoses( at the fire wall) to compare the feel of the heat , if one hose is hotter than the other hose then the core being partly plug .

[Petros]

Toughtercel,

I am a bit confused at your logic about the heater "if one hose is hotter than the other hose than the core is partly plug". If the heater core is working properly, the hose going into it will be hotter than the hose coming out. It will dump heat into the passenger compartment, and therefore the coolant has to come out of the heater core at a lower temp. That is also why if your radiator is plugged or the T-stat not working, the heater will bring the engine temp down.

What do you mean?

[toughtercel]

Heater core only receive light flow of coolant compare the water pump pressure , it just the corrosion in the heater core that cause to leak but if you want to flush the heater core then make it very light flow first from garden hose water then add more water later because heater core tend to burst easy . Good luck .