Water Temp switch location

[smokerx]

Hi, I have a 1983 and just completed the Petros head gasket method, between that and having a mess of a front end from rewiring and radiator work from a deer accident, I have a few lines I`m not sure where they go and was wondering if someone could look at theirs for me.

1. First is the water temperature switch that plugs into the bottom of the radiator ( page 196 of the FSM) it doesn't show you where it goes. There`s a loose electrical connector hanging from the underside of the exhaust manifold off a probe, but it didn't fit. Even a color of this plug would be helpful.

2. Next is the end of that probe that plugs into the bottom of the exhaust manifold. It`s got a wire then a electrical plug on the end. I can't find any info. on this in the FSM.

3. Also (page 196) the two oil cooler hoses.

4. Finally (page 91) there`s a metal line that goes from the HAC valve, under and then behind the head and hooks up to a rubber tube. It looks like it hooks to the distributor in the Manual but i can't really tell. I searched for loose lines but can't find one.

I don't think my radiator was ever hooked up beyond the water inlet and outlet and the last bit is my fault from using dollar store masking tape to label my lines and having it fall off and not remembering or finding the line that goes here. Any help here would be great.

[smokerx]

Ok I found this diagram which is more accurate than the sites FSM since my sticker is rubbed off the hood. I studied it and now I got the outer line with the restrictor oricifice(23) leading to the bottom connector on the distributor. The Inner line without the restrictor orifice leads into the check valve(24) then into a splitter where it connects the flow from the check valve with the flow of the line leading from the hac valve(16) and flows into the top hose connection on the distributor. is this right? I can't really make it out from bad resolution of this pic.

[dlb]

1. the wire on the bottom of the rad connects and is wrapped up with a bunch of other wires by the windshield washer fluid container. from there, the bunch passes low down in front of the rad, comes up on the driver side and all the various wires are tied in to the fuse box by the battery, the alternator, and the green plugs in that same area.

2. there is a green plug on the passenger side that has 4 wires, including the 'hot' lead for the carb electric choke. that hot lead is the only one i still use due to running a weber with no emissions stuff but i would guess that the connection your talking about connects to one of those wires.

3. if your T4 is a standard, you won't use the oil cooler function on your rad. i'm not sure how the automatics are set up for this.

4. if you look at the lower diagram on page 91 of the FSM, you can see that the lower line from the HAC connects to one of the upper ports on the dizzy's vac advance canister. i don't think it matters which one since either will apply vac to the same diaphragm and advance the timing when in use.

hope that helps!

[4wdchico]

1. the wire on the bottom of the rad connects and is wrapped up with a bunch of other wires by the windshield washer fluid container. from there, the bunch passes low down in front of the rad, comes up on the driver side and all the various wires are tied in to the fuse box by the battery, the alternator, and the green plugs in that same area.

2. there is a green plug on the passenger side that has 4 wires, including the 'hot' lead for the carb electric choke. that hot lead is the only one i still use due to running a weber with no emissions stuff but i would guess that the connection your talking about connects to one of those wires.

3. if your T4 is a standard, you won't use the oil cooler function on your rad. i'm not sure how the automatics are set up for this.

4. if you look at the lower diagram on page 91 of the FSM, you can see that the lower line from the HAC connects to one of the upper ports on the dizzy's vac advance canister. i don't think it matters which one since either will apply vac to the same diaphragm and advance the timing when in use.

hope that helps!

DLB,

Good advice above, however I need to chime in and say that the vac line from the HAC to the upper diaphragm on the dizzy should be connected to the nipple that has the tiny brass restriction orifice in it.

[dlb]

oops, thanks 4WDC!

[smokerx]

3. if your T4 is a standard, you won't use the oil cooler function on your rad.

On closer inspection I realized there where the remains of caps on the connectors that had rotted off. No wonder I couldn't find the lines.

4...one of the upper ports...

I think this is where my problem is. I was comparing the 1984 FSM diagram to the 1983 diagram that matches my engine and it appears they changed design in that area a little bit since there`s only one upper port on the vac. adv. canister on the 1983. It appears the vac. line from the HAC and the line from the check valve Tie into a plastic T valve before entering the single upper port of the vac. adv. canister. There's also an arrow on the T-valve I assume to show flow direction.

I`ll look for those other plugs where you mentioned dlb thanks for the help.

P.S. I know what you're thinking. The Petros method shouldn't involve messing with the vac. lines that connect the vac. adv. canister. Well I decided I needed to pull the intake valves to clean them and stripped the head down before borrowing the spring compressor from auto zone thinking it was the kind that clamps to the underside of the head like a C clamp and the manifolds and carb would be in the way. Evidently the auto zone valve spring compressor loaner tool connects to the springs only and I think I could have gotten away with just removing the rocker arm assembly.

[smokerx]

UPDATE: Ok first off, bullet point #2 in my previous posts is what I believe to be the Oxygen sensor. I think I found the hook ups for the oxygen sensor and the water temp. switch on the bottom of the radiator (#1) But the wires have been cut and the mating plugs are missing completely. It doesn't look like there's any way to hot wire the connections together and I have no idea where to get new plugs. Maybe i`ll try to cut them out at a junkyard and wire them in if possible, but junkyards around here don't like to save older models and usually crush them.

can I still drive it without a water temp. switch and oxygen sensor or are these major concerns I need to fix immediately?

[Petros]

You can buy the connectors that are inside the plug, attach the to the cut wires and plug them in individually. If your cooling fan is running (the default mode is to run all the time), you should be able to run it no problem. Get the temp sender connector fixed soon, the fan was not meant to run constantly. It is only needed when car is stopped or in slow traffic. I do not think the O2 sensor will cause any drivablity issues, that too can be fixed the same way, with idividual wire connectors.

How did they get cut?

Where are you located? I might be able to find you the connectors here and mail them to you.

Good luck.

[smokerx]

How did they get cut?

The front end has been crushed in and repaired at least twice from deer. Not too sure why this has resulted in the entire passengers side electric system to be a rat's nest of cut wire. Connectors got crushed in the ball of wreckage? Most likely the previous owner decided it was toast after the first deer, got a new car, and got this one running just enough to drive it to death or roll it over while learning how to rally race. Whichever came first. Apparently it's hard to kill.

The cooling fan does run all the time.

I'm located in Texas but I wouldn't want to ask you to go out of your way to find and mail me the connectors. Thanks for the heads up on being able to buy replacement connectors. I wouldn't have thought they where available. Also thanks for the head gasket write up. It helped immensely.

[Petros]

No problem getting the correct toyota connector, I go the wrecking yard regularly anyway.

What you can buy new is not the whole plastic connector housing, but rather the individual wire plugs that are inside the plastic connector housing. So instead of having one locked in place ;arge connector, you have two small wires plugged into the male or female ends inside the other half of the large plastic connector. Am I making it clear?

[smokerx]

Ok I see what you're saying Petros. I`ll have to disconnect a plug and look at it's connectors and see what type of electrician's electrical connector could work, e.g. bullet type electrical connectors or their female equivalent. Genius.

[Petros]

just returned from the local Picknpull, I have your connector. PM me your address and I will send it to you. Just send me a few $ for the mailing cost.