Oil pan is out, no metal bits

[Bluebelles Mom]

Maybe just a few small flakes of metal but nothing major at all. Is this a good or bad thing? No, I didin't investigate further. It's been a long day and I am tired. Apart from the connecting rod bearings is there anything else I should look at and if so what do I need to do and what will I be looking for?

[splatterdog]

No debris in the pan is always optimum. The things to check are bearing clearances. If you are just going to throw bearings at it, which isn't a bad idea if the pan is already off, they still need checking with plastigage to be sure everything is OK. A torque wrench and absolute attention to detail is a must. One loose bolt could mean catastrophe. One member here even documented the reason his rebuilt engine scattered immediately. His build photos clearly showed a missing rod nut. Ouch!

If it's a manual I want to repeat the need for thrust bearings. They control crankshaft endplay(front to back movement). Also, when working around a crankshaft DO NOT damage the polished surface. Rubber hose needs to be put over the rod bolts to prevent crankshaft contact. Make sure every bearing cap goes back on the way it came off. Scribe,number stamp,etch, or paint, take your pick for marking them.

The upper main bearings can be tricky when working in the car. They have to be rotated out, carefully or course. If you decide not to do the mains, again if it's a manual, at least do the thrust bearings.

Finally, when you think you are ready to put the pan back on. Double or triple check every fastener with the torque wrench again. Almost forgot. Go to Napa. They have large "ketchup packets" of assembly lube for the new bearings. Anything larger would be more than you need.

Good luck!

[Petros]

Sounds all good. Most important thing is the rod bearing caps go back on in the same direction they came off. Most makers mark them but Toyota does not, so use a scratch tool on the side of the cap(where it meets the rod) to mark it so you know where it goes back.

And the on assembly, it is very important you have the new bearings seated all the way in and lined up correctly. The upper bearing can be a bit of a chore because you can not reach up easy to above the crank. It helps to rotate the crank back and fourth to gain access (so remove the spark plugs to make it easy to rotate). And as SD notes, be very careful to protect the crank journal from the rod bolts, they can scratch it very easy.

Get the 3 and 4 bearings out and take close up pictures of it and post them so we can take a look at them. the crank journals too.

Good luck.

[Bluebelles Mom]

OK, plastiguage is purchased as is the bearing grease. 2 Napa stores hit this morning and neither of them had the smaller lube packets so I now have enough to do about 12 engines.

[Bluebelles Mom]

After I finish this cup of coffee I will go out and see if I can get the #4 bearing off. This scares me a whole bunch.

[Bluebelles Mom]

I now have the nuts off the #4 bearing. How do I get it off???? It's like it's welded on there and I am afraid to get rough with a hammer or pry bar.

[Highlander]

Use a wooden hammer handle (i.e. turn the hammer around and use the end where you hold onto it) and alternately tap the rod bolts upward, the rod and piston should move upward (watch out for the rod bolts contacting the crank), then you can pull the rod and piston back down and rock the cap off. I usually will tap until the rod bolt no longer projects through the cap, pull the piston back, and the cap will come off in your hands. Be sure to mark its orientation-It only goes one way-tab to tab on the bearing shells. Hope this helps....