I know the brackets on my front stabilizer were going. The pot holes just helped. I pulled off the front stabilizer bar to see how bad. They are worn out. After confirming I went to put everything back.
All but one went in fine, it was spinning in the socket. No problem, I will retap the nut. Retapped the nut for the existing bolt. Still spins. I go up from 10 to 11mm. Still no go with the next size up bolt.
Now the hits the fan. I try the 12mm tap. It snaps off with 1/2 an inch in the bolt home. Flush
How do I get the broken tap out without destroying the socket?
Once out how should I re-thread the nut.
The worse part is that I can't get at the nut from the top.
Use a hammer and a small punch or chisel to knock the tap counterclockwise until it loosens? Then use needle nose pliers to get it the rest of the way. Did you drill the hole out first or just tap? You can only go so big anyway before there isn't enough metal left for the threads. These nuts are square weld-on nuts that go on a small piece that is welded to the main piece of the crossmember - I know because this piece rusted and broke off on my car so I got to see what it looks like inside. I got another crossmember from the junkyard. If you can get the tap out, drill the hole if you haven't already and use lots of oil, the M12 tap should work.
I had one strip and I retapped it....but can't say I like the quality of the repair. I've been thinking of cutting a hole in the "side" of the xmember just big enough to get the nut or nuts out of there and weld in some good ones. :blink:
Open 'er up and use a cold chisel to remove the old ones?
The nuts's in there must be soft steel and pretty thin.
I did a writeup on the front bar...best end bushing prices are from the Toyota online source mentioned in there.
Give a boy a gun-give a biatch a cell phone-and pretty soon you almost got yourself a police state.
Orwell said: War is peace! Freedom is slavery. Ignorance is strength...
Rotate tap in 1/2 turn- remove and blow/shake out shavings. Repeat process until desired depth is reached.
At least, so says my Transportation I instructor...
RIP 10-07- 1984 Toyota Tercel SR5 4wd Wagen 6 speed
RIP 04-05- 1986 Toyota Tercel SR5 4wd Wagen 6 speed
I searched and couldn't find end bushings anywhere but the dealer. I went there and paid way more than at Takza's link because I was impatient. It turns out my car really needed them (and still does need them on the side I didn't fix yet). The front bushing was worn all the way down to the plastic core (no rubber was left) and the inner sleeve was not even existent anymore.
Typrus wrote: Rotate tap in 1/2 turn- remove and blow/shake out shavings. Repeat process until desired depth is reached.
At least, so says my Transportation I instructor...
Tapping something always makes me nervous...get that way after breaking a tap or two. That's the way to do it...correct sized hole....use cutting lube...watch how much torque you are applying....back off 1/4 turn to clear chips...go slow....keep it straight vs the hole.
I'd RECOMMEND that any one who even LOOKS at those bracket bolts use no grease and a good torque wrench to tighten them exactly. A design flaw?
Give a boy a gun-give a biatch a cell phone-and pretty soon you almost got yourself a police state.
Orwell said: War is peace! Freedom is slavery. Ignorance is strength...
I did not try to punch out the nut. After trying to work the tap out, I tried to crack the tap with a chisel. A little pounding and the nut went. I driller a larger hole and welded in another nut. I let the other stock nut.
Anybody ever see those things that are like, half pop-rivet, half nut? You "pop" them in place, and thus you have a nut, more like a threaded insert? Don't know if they would be substantial enough for this case, but it just popped into my head. Never used one, actually....I like the welding idea better.
I always like it when you improve upon the factory...
Like wiring, for instance, I have put in alot of stereos, and the factory wiring is almost always not good enough....and this one guy with an 81 Celica was like "yeah but Toyota designed that wiring" and I'm like "yeah but think how many of these cars they made, and think how if they could use little wires for the stereo, which would be fine for the factory radio, they could save a few cents per car, that translates to a huge savings for the run of the factory..."
Rivet nuts? I would not use them for suspension, they would have to be pretty soft steel. It is neat how they go in from one side though. There would be a lot of situations where one would be useful.
Well now that reading week has started I can do some work on the car.
I welded in the nut. Then the other nut on the same side stripped. I drilled it out and MIGed in another.
How I got to drilling welding the nuts in was well ...nuts.
I picked up a stick welder at Canadian Tire. It was on sale. Got it home, set up to weld and it did not work.
OK I thought I will go and see if they have another. They did not but they had a small Oxy Cetaline set. I was all set up to weld so I thought OK lets do a gas weld instead. Got the unit home and the Oxygen was empty. I took it all back to Canadian Tire. Still no car.
I looked around for a used welder. I have used both gas and flux MIGs. Picked one up off of eBay, used once 4 years ago.
MiG'ed it and everything is good. I suck at welding over my head.
hits the fan. I try the 12mm tap. It snaps off with 1/2 an inch in the bolt home. Flush 