Good news and bad news:

[Bluebelles Mom]

Ok guys it looks like the oil may be coming from the front seal. First really dry day since it started gushing so there was a small puddle right under the front of the engine and I could tell there was oil on the front of the engine too.

The bad news is that I think my starter gave up the ghost. I got the car push started when I suspected the battery and it starts fine that way. I drove it back to the base and stopped at the exchange for more oil and the car still wouldn't start when I came out. That's when I noticed the oil. So I walked home and will go starter shopping tomorrow along with everything else.

[splatterdog]

If the starter still gives a solid click, then it might be just the solenoid contacts. Very common when these get older. A little deeper job than just the starter, but not too challenging.

Here's a fairly cheap tool for easy removal of front seals.http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-Shaft ... B000FPYW4K

[dlb]

starter is easy, it's just two 14 mm bolts and a plug. like SD says, it might just be the solenoid in which case it's cheap AND relatively easy. and the front seal ain't so bad. two more jobs on the way to a bad ass tercel!

[Bluebelles Mom]

If the starter still gives a solid click, then it might be just the solenoid contacts. Very common when these get older. A little deeper job than just the starter, but not too challenging.

Here's a fairly cheap tool for easy removal of front seals.http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-Shaft ... B000FPYW4K

Ok, help me out here. I looked in my Chilton's Manual and only found a ref to brake solenoids. That can't be what you are referring to. Where will I find the solenoid contacts and what is done for/with/about them? I found starters at O'reily's Auto for as low as $29.99.

[takza]

A rebuilt starter should have the solenoid attached?

[Bluebelles Mom]

A rebuilt starter should have the solenoid attached?

OK, I was hoping that might be the case. I find it odd that O'Reillys has different starters from $30 up to over $70 all of which are remanufactured and supposedly fit the car. Would I be better off buying one of the 'step down' ones or the cheaper 'driect drive' starters?

[Highlander]

A gear reduction starter, .9Kw, is what you should get. It cuts down on the battery draw. I have 3 full sets of the solenoid contacts if you need a set-my cost $3 ea ($6/set) plus shipping.

[Petros]

before you change the starter check all the electrical contacts. I have found the starters are pretty reliable, very long lived on these cars. So first check and clean the battery cable contacts, check the ground contact at both the batter end and the ground strap from the engine (make sure it is clean and tight, no corrosion, etc.), and the contact where the batter cable joins the starter. Half the time it is a bad contact and not the starter all, this will not cost you a thing.

There is one list member that change the starter three times, thinking each one was bad when it was either a bad starter relay or a bad contact in the starter circuit.

[Bluebelles Mom]

Ok, it actually was the starter. The guy said it was actually sparking when he tested it. I just got the new one in and the car started right up.

[Petros]

good for you!

now for the front seal...

[Bluebelles Mom]

good for you!

now for the front seal...

Yes, that is a bit more daunting. I can pick up the seal tomorrow and then the hobby shop opens next Thursday.

[deejay1272]

Here's a fairly cheap tool for easy removal of front seals.http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-Shaft ... B000FPYW4K

I just bought a seal puller tool (mine looks more like a pick axe of sorts). It was useless. I simply used a screwdriver and carefully removed the front main seal without scraping or scarring the metal around the seal seat. Worked like a charm.

Replacing the front main seal isn't too difficult, but you will need to drain and remove your radiator. Once you have the radiator off, you're home free. If your water pump or timing belt tensioner pulley are making noises, then it may be a good idea to replace these things (along with the timing belt) while you're in there. Getting to the front main seal requires many of the same steps to replace the timing belt. Either way, you will have to remove the crankshaft pulley. Definitely go for the method that others have suggested for doing this: I cut a small strip of a clean terry cloth towel and stuck in cylinder #1 through the spark plug hole when the valves were both closed (compression cycle - this can be checked by plugging the spark plug hole with a finger and turning the crankshaft until pressure builds up in the cylinder). Then, I used the oil dipstick to push the towel strip into the cylinder. This gives you the ability to put a breaker bar on that 3/4" bolt that holds the crankshaft nut in place and turn it with control. Everything else needed to do this work is in the FSM.

Good luck!

[splatterdog]

Yes a screwdriver will work. But it requires extreme caution that no damage happens. The lisle tool is slick. Only had trouble with one seal that was in real tight(new one one went in tight too). All others have been out in seconds. Does rear mains no problem too. Pretty much any rubber skinned seal. It also costs less than one speedi-sleeve.

Back to Bluebelles Mom. One more thing. If the water pump looks ancient, it will be 100% accessible during the seal job. It's always easier the second time, but I'm sure you don't want to open up the front of the engine for a while after this job. If you add that too your list, make sure to get the O-ring that goes between the water pump housing to engine block. It usually doesn't come with a new pump.

On the seal job, use a small amount of carb clean on an old toothbrush to clean the crank/cam shafts of dirt on the out side before you take the seals out, and after they are out to get the carbon buildup behind the seal. Blast the outside crud off the brush before going inside. Also, make sure to lube the inside of the seals if the don't already have some pre-applied. Finally, when pushing the seals in, make sure the inner lip doesn't get rolled over. It's usually pretty easy to tell when that happen as it will try to push out thru the smaller outter lip. Best way is to start at the bottom or top depending on access and compress it against the shaft. This makes it easier to get the other side of the seal over the shaft without rolling the inner lip.

Good luck!

[Bluebelles Mom]

Yes a screwdriver will work. But it requires extreme caution that no damage happens. The lisle tool is slick. Only had trouble with one seal that was in real tight(new one one went in tight too). All others have been out in seconds. Does rear mains no problem too. Pretty much any rubber skinned seal. It also costs less than one speedi-sleeve.

Back to Bluebelles Mom. One more thing. If the water pump looks ancient, it will be 100% accessible during the seal job. It's always easier the second time, but I'm sure you don't want to open up the front of the engine for a while after this job. If you add that too your list, make sure to get the O-ring that goes between the water pump housing to engine block. It usually doesn't come with a new pump.

On the seal job, use a small amount of carb clean on an old toothbrush to clean the crank/cam shafts of dirt on the out side before you take the seals out, and after they are out to get the carbon buildup behind the seal. Blast the outside crud off the brush before going inside. Also, make sure to lube the inside of the seals if the don't already have some pre-applied. Finally, when pushing the seals in, make sure the inner lip doesn't get rolled over. It's usually pretty easy to tell when that happen as it will try to push out thru the smaller outter lip. Best way is to start at the bottom or top depending on access and compress it against the shaft. This makes it easier to get the other side of the seal over the shaft without rolling the inner lip.

Good luck!

Thanks for the tips. I just picked up the crankshaft seal just this afternoon and I also got the one for the camshaft. Since I am not 100% sure where the oil is coming from. The Auto Hobby Shop opens at 10am next Wed. and I plan on being first in line.

[dlb]

what are you getting from the hobby shop, btw??