Driveline bearings

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Fingers
Top Notch Member
Posts: 203
Joined: Sat Apr 10, 2004 12:08 am
Location: St. Louis, MO

Post by Fingers »

Hey all,

I just wanted to say hey to everyone and let you know what is up with me and the Terc.

Getting ready to start on my ASE tests, working at a Dodge dealership, fininshing up some school, etc.

Finally reached the point of having to get rid of that rumble in the drivetrain. Started with an inspection, finding the center drive bearing shaking in the rubber mount. Hey, maybe that is my problem!

Lets see, remove shaft, unfasten yoke bolt, and gently tap shaft out of yoke. Sounds easy enough.....

Not so. Well, try beating shaft from yoke with brass punch and 4lb contractors hammer....

Nope. How about heat up yoke with propane torch and then beat out with hammer/punch....

Nada. Finally after combining the hammer, punch, torch and a jar of ice water, it began to budge. Out she came. New bearing went on quite easy. BTW, old bearing was fine, just rubber mount shot.

Put it all back together. Wait til morning to drive.

Drive to work. Some of the sound gone, but now the humming is starting to combine with clicks and pops. OK, get to work, see a puddle under the rear wheel. Sh*t, and Yeah at the same time! Maybe it is a brake issue.

Get home (slowly), raise it up, take apart rear brake assembly. Hey the brakes are fine! But I notice the fluid is coming from the bearing plate. Pull axle out to find that there are 4 balls left in the rear bearing, and a whole lot of metal missing.

Rear bearing replacement....Use cutoff tool and splitter to remove old bearing and retainer. Press on new bearing. Heat retainer in oil bath to 300deg and press in place....

Nope, just don't have the tools to do this.

Anyone undertake this process before? I am to the point of going junk yard hunting this weekend and hoping to find one. Or else rent a car (see, I told my wife we should have kept the celica or the camry as a backup, but would she listen, NOOOO), and take the whole mess to a shop and have them do the nasty work.

Any comments/suggestions?

Oh yeah, had to replace the steering cluster, found a 84 sr5 and pulled it and swapped it in, have rewired the wiper assembly, now have intermittent(but really slowish high), took the gauge cluster, swapped it in and the Tach and everything worked great! Also snagged a inclinometer! That will be another weekend project!
86 Tercel Wagon 4WD, 4AC, 3sp Auto. (2) 89 Corolla GT-S, 4AGE. 87 Corolla GT-S, 4AGE, SOLD! 68 Mustang Fastback, 351c.i.=>429c.i., 3 Speed Manual, 10 Year Plan. 66 Mustang GT350, 289c.i., 4 Speed Manual, SOLD!

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GTSSportCoupe
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Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 9:14 am
Location: Victoria BC, Canada

Post by GTSSportCoupe »

I'm tired and maybe I'm not hearing right, but are you talking about the bearing on the input to the rearend? If so, can you detach the drive shaft, pull the axles, and remove the entire pumpkin with differential in it and take it to a shop and have them replace the bearing? I've done this sort of stuff before and usually it ends up being pretty cost effective.

In the past when I've had rear end problems I've just replaced the entire thing with one from a wrecker, but this can open a can of worms sometimes too (ie. trying to detach rusted bushings and brake lines etc. At least its a light little rear end though!
Current:
91 LJ78 Landcruiser EX5
95 A32 Maxima SE
Former:
87 AW11 MR2 Smallport 4AGZE
93 Taurus SHO ATX
86 AL25 SR5 6spd 4wd
90 AE92 GTS
82 KP61 SR5
85 MX73
87 AE86 GTS 4AGZE
85 AE86 GTS
83 AL21
GTSSportCoupe
Highest Ranking Member
Posts: 1626
Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 9:14 am
Location: Victoria BC, Canada

Post by GTSSportCoupe »

Or are you talking about one of the axle bearings? If so, just bring the axle to a shop and have them replace the bearing for you. I did this with both axles in my wife's old Starlet she had.
Current:
91 LJ78 Landcruiser EX5
95 A32 Maxima SE
Former:
87 AW11 MR2 Smallport 4AGZE
93 Taurus SHO ATX
86 AL25 SR5 6spd 4wd
90 AE92 GTS
82 KP61 SR5
85 MX73
87 AE86 GTS 4AGZE
85 AE86 GTS
83 AL21
Lateer
Top Notch Member
Posts: 223
Joined: Mon Aug 23, 2004 11:25 pm
Location: Tasmania, Australia

Post by Lateer »

I've just had this done after the left-hand rear bearing failed at 100kph.
Diff oil everywhere. The mechanic simply put a slide hammer onto the half-shaft and yanked it out.
Then he ground off the old bearing (which was shredded) and put another new one on for me on both sides.

Easy. If you can get the half-shafts out, then the rest is simpler.

I've got to do some reading and see what other bearings are whining in there as there's a nasty one when I'm in 4WD.

Does anyone know how easy the front bearings are to do? I've got a CV to do soon and I might do them at the same time...
1983 Tercel SR5 with 185/75R14 tyres, 32/36 DGAV Weber carburetor, lumpy cam and upgraded Pioneer sound system. Veteran of several fire seasons (with the scars to show it) and known as "The Racing Turtle"
Fingers
Top Notch Member
Posts: 203
Joined: Sat Apr 10, 2004 12:08 am
Location: St. Louis, MO

Post by Fingers »

The axle bearing is the one in question.

The axle came out real easy, and I figured getting a shop to do it was the way, but due to lack of time, I was hoping for a more localized solution.

Yeah, I think I will do the swap, if I can find a salvageable rear end at the yards, and that is the thing I am most dreading. The search.

As for the front bearings, I believe some years are real easy to do, early models I believe, but on the later they are pressed in, or so I think I remember reading that.

Well, i guess I will order the bearing and ring, and if I find a junkyard replacement I will just return it. Man, and after the 105 bills for the center bearing.

Fingers

p.s.A few friends of mine just found a 4wd Terc for sale at a lot a few miles down the road. Haven't went to see it yet, but just in case someone in the midwest might be looking....
86 Tercel Wagon 4WD, 4AC, 3sp Auto. (2) 89 Corolla GT-S, 4AGE. 87 Corolla GT-S, 4AGE, SOLD! 68 Mustang Fastback, 351c.i.=>429c.i., 3 Speed Manual, 10 Year Plan. 66 Mustang GT350, 289c.i., 4 Speed Manual, SOLD!

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takza
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Posts: 4414
Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2004 4:28 am
Location: Tibetan plateau

Post by takza »

As far as the center driveline bearing...I get some minor rumble at times in 4WD at 1st.....cold..........I checked it and was thinking of stuffing some foam or a rag (or solid rubber?) in or around the present rubber damper...cause I couldn't see anything wrong with the bearing its self.
Give a boy a gun-give a biatch a cell phone-and pretty soon you almost got yourself a police state.

Orwell said: War is peace! Freedom is slavery. Ignorance is strength...

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3A-C Power
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Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 5:22 pm
Location: Ontario, Canada

Post by 3A-C Power »

Changing the axle bearings is really hard without a hydraulic press. I did one without it, using a drill and grinding wheel to get the old one off and a big steel pipe to get the new one on. I wouldn't reccommend that method to anyone. You can get the axle shafts off yourself and then take them to a shop with a press, and they shouldn't charge too much to do the job. The bearings are pretty cheap if you don't get them at the dealer. You end up with the same bearing for half the price getting it from a parts store.

I am interested in any Tercel with a rust-free clean body that is also a good deal so if that one fits the bill, I am interested.
Fingers
Top Notch Member
Posts: 203
Joined: Sat Apr 10, 2004 12:08 am
Location: St. Louis, MO

Post by Fingers »

Well,

Got 'er all back together, cost me 15 to get the new bearing/retainer pressed on. Took the diff out and ran 2 cans of brake cleaner through it and the housing. Also, replaced all of my brake hardware(springs, clips, etc) while I was at it, replaced both of my seals as well, now I am waiting to do a full flush of all of my brake fluid.

With the new center drive and wheel bearing, this thing is quiet, real quiet. It has never been this not noisy. I did switch to a synt-blend 85w140 in the diff, I was afraid it might have been damaged by all the particles of metal that worked their way in there, but it was pretty quiet before I put it in, and with the heavier oil, it is silent(within reason).

It was an experience, with the mandatory beer consumption and the chemical fumes, I think I killed many a brain cell.

I will go look at the for sale 'cel this week and let you know 3a.


COST:
Bearing $22.00
Seal(s) $11.00 ea.
Fluid $8.00
Machine Shop $15.00
Brake Hardware $5.00 (both sides)
Brake Fluid $4.00

Total(approx)=$76.00
86 Tercel Wagon 4WD, 4AC, 3sp Auto. (2) 89 Corolla GT-S, 4AGE. 87 Corolla GT-S, 4AGE, SOLD! 68 Mustang Fastback, 351c.i.=>429c.i., 3 Speed Manual, 10 Year Plan. 66 Mustang GT350, 289c.i., 4 Speed Manual, SOLD!

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