Removing intake/exhaust manifold

[deejay1272]

I'm noticing some exhaust smells in my engine compartment when the car is running so I'm lead to believe that I have either a small crack in my exhaust manifold or the gasket has failed in some way. I'd like to remove my manifold to take a closer look at it, but I'm afraid that my only option is to remove the head to get to it. Has anyone found a way to remove the manifold without taking the head off?

Thanks,
Dan

[ARCHINSTL]

Dan - It's (relatively) straightforward. I did this early-on in my 3AC experience, so you know it's easy.
I just used the FSM. One thing I'd recommend, though, is getting a wobble and a flex adapter - some of those nuts/bolts are "awkward" to access.
Also see this link for more info: http://www.tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtop ... 31&p=10416
Read the whole thread... Also use LOTS of PB Blaster or similar on the fasteners - and particularly on the connections to the exhaust pipe - in fact, I'd buy replacement bolts for this connnection beforehand, just in case you have to cut them off.
I also removed the carb/heat shield for easier access; an additional step, but it made things easier.
When the manifold is off, also work on cleaning up the heat control valve in the exhaust manifold.
Tom M.

[Highlander]

First check the nuts at the header/manifold connection, they are supposed to be self locking, but after time, they can be self loosening. The easiest way, in my mind, to remove the exhaust manifold is to pull the carb and heat deflector (that annoying aluminum plate under the carb) so you can get to the upper studs, then you need an assortment of extensions with a universal and a 14mm socket. feed the socket and universal in from the passenger side to get onto the nuts (I had to work my hand in there to hold the universal from flopping). The worst ones are the nuts below and inboard of the outer exhaust runners, you pretty much have to keep pushing on the socket extension in order to keep the socket engaged. It's no picnic even with the engine on a stand, and don't forget to remove the bolt that holds the exhaust/intake manifold assy to the block, it'll keep you cussing until you figure it out

[Petros]

Before you remove the manifold I would check all the mounting nuts/bolts, they always work loose because of the repeated heat/cooling of the exhaust system. All you need is an open end wrench, you can bend the heat shield up to get the center top nut, and you have to reach up under the manifold to get to the lower bolts (a mirror and drop light help a lot). but you do not have to remove anything except the air cleaner to tighten them all.

I suspect you just need to tighten the manifold nuts and bolts and you will be fine.

[deejay1272]

I suspect you just need to tighten the manifold nuts and bolts and you will be fine.

Well that would be nice - I could use a break like this given all my ignition problems that I had last week

Thanks for the words of wisdom, everyone. It's amazing how useful this Forum can be.

BTW - as a reminder to future readers of this thread, I'd like to point out Tom's experience (see the link above). It appears that the smaller OD 6 point Craftsmen 14mm socket attachments can be squeezed below the manifold and between the engine head while a long ratchet extension attachment can be used to get your hand out in the open where there is some room to rotate the ratchet. This obviates the need to remove the engine head to gain access to the manifold bolts.

If I find that my manifold bolts have NOT simply come loose over time, then I'll utilize this method to remove the manifold and inspect for cracks. (Unfortunately I have found a crack in my exhaust manifold in my '97 Civic that is causing the whole damn electronic controlled engine to run like crap, but that's another story!)

[takza]

Just don't go crazy and overtighten them...and use some penetrant to try and avoid broken bolts. At times it is best to loosen before you try tightening...especially if you run into a rusted one.