Stock Carb Problems

[Devin]

While I scope out prospects for a transmission, I have turned my efforts to rebuilding my stock carb. Before the rebuild it would run if you poured gas directly into it and then die, even though gas is getting to where the fuel pipe connects to the carb. Well I took it off, cleaned everything I could get to and rebuilt it with a AutoZone kit. It was pretty nasty, especially in the float bowl chamber. I put it back on, and it started and then died. Now it will only run with direct gas like before. Any thoughts? I am totally stumped. Thanks.
Devin

[blade]

how is you pump in the carb?? what about the jets mine were cloged when i first got my car and cleandthem and it ran better. so look at those two.

[Petros]

leaks in the fuel line before the pump will cause it to suck air, and you would not see any fuel leaking out. THat is the vacuum side of the pump. Test by running a fuel line directly from a gas can into the fuel pump (us a clear one if you have it and you can see if it is pulling fuel).

IF it runs off the gas can, than you know the problem is upstream of the fuel pump. If it will not run, it is likely between the fuel pump and carb. Also double check all lines and components for a large vacuum leak, including the brake booster.

[splatterdog]

Can you see fuel thru the sight glass? If not you have a supply problem or a misadjusted float. Have you checked the idle fuel cut solenoid? Have a helper turn the key on and listen for a "click". Use a screwdriver held against the solenoid and the handle butted up against your ear for a stethoscope. A stethoscope can be used as well...

Did you blow the carb and it's parts out with compressed air? If it was nasty, a more thorough cleaning may be needed.

Not sure if the carb body would fit in the small one, but those Berryman dip cans work wonders on gooped and corroded carbs. http://berrymanproducts.com/ProductsInf ... aners.aspx

[xirdneh]

[quote="
Did you blow the carb and it's parts out with compressed air? If it was nasty, a more thorough cleaning may be needed.

Not sure if the carb body would fit in the small one, but those Berryman dip cans work wonders on gooped and corroded carbs. http://berrymanproducts.com/ProductsInf ... aners.aspx[/quote]

that Berryman stuff is nasty smelling and it finds a way onto your clothing taking the smell wherever you go
when you pop the lid (metal gallon can like a paint can) beware of slight pressure build up (sometimes)
i will spray you
suit up like its nuclear

the area behind the primary jet has tunnels that go several directions
thats probably where the stuff is clogging
need to blow it out well

[Devin]

Good suggestion Petros, I tried just that and it ran great. Now I just have to find the leak or obstruction between the pump and gas tank. Any suggestions on where to start? Perhaps I should drop the tank and clean it out while I'm at it?
Side note: It was running good but idled funny. It would bounce, in rhythm, between 1000 and 1700 rpm. Anything thoughts on that?
Thanks for all the help guys.

[splatterdog]

It hasn't been mentioned yet, so I gotta ask. Have you put a new $3 fuel filter that doesn't even require tools on yet?

Crack the old one open and check for large particles or any other contaminant. Blow thru the line going back to the tank and have a helper listen for bubbles at the filler. Mouth pressure is plenty for this test. Compressed air can rupture the in tank strainer.

Also while the filter is out, hold your finger over the end of the hose going to the pump. Then have your helper crank the engine. A remote starter switch comes in real handy otherwise. Make sure it's in nuetral so you don't take a fun ride. When the engine is cranking you should feel suction at the hose end. No suction=bad pump or maybe just a collapsed hose.

If there is suction and you can blow back in to the tank, another test is to run the hose from the carb to a container and crank it. It shouldn't take too long to get a few ounces. A pressure gauge would be real handy too. Harbor freight has some real cheap vacuum/pressure gauges for the casual user.

Also, have you studied the FSM? There might even be a spec for the suction side of the pump. For sure there are detailed testing procedures according to Toyota if you don't feel comfortable with my methods. We are blessed with that free info, take advantage of it.

[Petros]

Likely it is one of the rubber fuel lines, unless you live an area prone to rust, than any of the metal lines could be corroded through as well.

To test for a leak in the line first take each of the rubber lines out and blow into them, you likely will find which one is bad that way. There is one before the fuel pump, one from the metal line to the fuel filter, and one from the fuel filter to the metal line coming from the fuel tank. There is also one on top of the fuel tank to the metal line (you can get to it from under the car. Hopefully it is one of the ones in the engine compartment.

Before you drop the tank, you can inspect inside it from the hatch under the carpet in the back (over tank). If the inside is clean, no rust or crud no reason to remove it. I think the fuel line pick-up has a screen on it, you can inspect and clean from the hatch if need be.

The fast unstable idle is probably a vacuum leak. check all your vac lines, and that they are routed correctly from the diagram in the FSM. If nothing spray carb cleaner on the lines and carb area while it is running, when the engine changes speed you found where the leak is located with the spray.

Good luck.