all of a sudden, it dies at idle...

[SethM]

While on my way to an alternate state inspection station to get a second opinion on my alleged carrier bearing issue (see separate thread), my 1985 SR5 T4WD daily-driver suddenly started dying at stop signs. A search of this forum reveals the usual emphasis on vacuum leaks. So my question is, given the miles of spaghetti (vacuum hoses) under the hood, is there a "more likely" place to look first?

Some other facts (which may not be relevant):

It was raining hard here today

My car has idled with a stumble (flutters between 800 and 600 rpms) since I acquired her and got her on the road. I looked (albeit in complete ignorance) for vacuum leaks back then and couldn't spot any so just kept driving her (happily).

I believe I have rather suddenly started consuming some oil (never used to) but I checked both the dipstick and the fill cap for chocolate milkshake froth and found none.

The car has started dieseling on shut off (did do this much, if at all, but has been recently)

Not sure any of the above is related to my sudden stalling problem but just thought I'd mention it. I can keep the car running if I keep my foot on the gas. Besides a vacuum leak, I wondered about a blown head gasket (see above regarding lack of milkshake froth) or a burnt valve....

Help (?)

Thanks,

[takza]

Sounds like a vac leak related to the PCV system? I'd clean or replace the PCV valve..check all the related hoses for leaks.

My wagon wouldn't idle after a vac hose on the pass side of the carb near the base came off....there are around 3 of them there.

Main thing is to take the end of each vac hose off...check for a split...or for looseness...maybe use a small nylon cable tie to snug the end up if in doubt...then put it back on and go for the next one. If you have the good silicone rubber as came from the factory...and they are mostly in good shape...the ends can be cut back just a bit.

[SethM]

An update:

Followed Takza's suggestion and replaced the PCV valve-- the hose going to it was some I bought at NAPA previously and doesn't really fit well and has to be contorted quite a bit to get the air cleaner back on. Stopped at the Toyo dealer and order the factory pre-bent hose and picked up some metric hose to use in the meantime. Replaced the PCV hose, the one from the base of the carb to the air cleaner and one going to the passenger side area by the strut. I found one more problem (to be described below). Started it up and it ran like a champ including once I kicked it down off the high idle. Let it run for a while, revved it up, moved it a bit. THEN I took it for a very short test drive and once it neared operating temp, it started dying again when my foot came off the gas. Is there a temperature connection here or was that just a coincidence?

I DIO find a small vacuum hose coming off the carb that was split but more importantly one end was loose, connected to nothing. Here is a pic of the hose in question, removed a lying atop the valve cover just to see it better. The second photo shows it in place (look closely for the yellow valve that is in the middle of the hose). From the factory diagram at the dealer's, I can't figure out what this hose is supposed to connect to. The loose end is the end nearest the firewall, the other end is connected at the base of the carb near where the PCV hose connects. Not sure it is related to my problem as I suspect it has been this way since I have owned the car and my stalling-at-idle problem just started suddenly yesterday.

Here are the photos. Any ideas on what is wrong?

[4wdchico]

My guess is that is the hose that goes to the vac advance on the distributor. Specifically, it should go to the unrestricted vac port (there are two ports, one has a brass restrictor that can bee seen just inside the opening) on the vac advance diaphragm (there are two) that is closest to the dist. body.

If my guess is correct the vac source for that vac line is at the gas filter that is on the #1 intake runner of the intake manifold.

Go to the FSM, emission section, to make sure that the check is pointed in the correct direction.

[SethM]

Hmmm, I looked at the vacuum advance today and all the ports were hooked up elsewhere.... The lvac tube in question was attached to a port at the base of the carb which I thought would be the vac source. I'll check the FSM as suggested because the dealer's part diagram seemed to show iit connecting to a line leading ti or near the vac advance.

[takza]

The TVSV operates according to coolant temp...so if it malfunctions or the tubing isn't routed right...that could be the source of the problem.

It takes only a minor leak to cause big issues.

Here are the vac diagrams:

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=2810

Also check under the hood...might be one there?

[SethM]

Thanks! Just using my phone for internet at the moment but will check those diagrams.... Avcheck of the FSM suggests it might be the short line connecting the "jet" to the TP (throttle position) valve. The other possibility I saw was the VTV (?) valve.... I think the jet line is more likely and will start there in the morning light.

[SethM]

Oops--correction: the "jet" connects to the CB (choke breaker) diaphragm not the TP valve. And, this morning I found the place on the CB where the hose was supposed to be connected. Put new hose on each end of the jet and hooked it up properly. No improvement, still dies the minute I take my foot off the gas. Will run fine while up on the high idle setting from the choke. The FSM says you are supposed to be able to blow air through the jet in both directions... mine is plugged. Does anyone have experience with this jet and its function in relation to the TVSV? I'm still not sure this is the cause of my sudden problem, for all I know, this hose has been disconnected since I got the car 2 years ago..... Hoping someone here has more insight. Here's the pic from page EC-49 of the FSM:

[Rickety Rhino]

The blow test doesn't work. I've tested 3 of these jets this way, and they all fail. However if I hook up a vacuum tester, all 3 jets behave perfectly - after applying 15 inches Hg vacuum (my Tercel's manifold vacuum value) with my vacuum pump to one side of the jet, it takes 5 sec for the other side of the jet to go from no vacuum to the same vacuum value. So the jet probably isn't your problem. My problem is that when the jet is connected to the choke breaker diaphram A, vacuum doesn't go through until diaphram B also has vacuum. I'm suspecting a leak between the two diaphrams. Hope this helps.

[SethM]

I'm suspecting a leak between the two diaphrams. Hope this helps.

Is this in your case, or in mine? If there was a leak between the two diaphragms, could that cause the stalling at idle? Meaning, it would act like an external vacuum leak?

Thanks,

[xirdneh]

in your picture i do not see the large vac hose that comes out of the base of the carb and connects to the bottom of the air filter housing
if that port is left open it will die as you state
usually it comes loose at the air hsg connection

[ARCHINSTL]

What xirdneh said ! Look at page EC-45 in the FSM. The assorted tuning notes in the FSM mention removing the air cleaner and plugging that tube. Once I forgot to reinsert this tube in the HIC valve in the air cleaner body and it kept dying at idle.
Tom M.

[SethM]

Yes, I know about the hose that coonects to the HIC valve at the base of the air cleaner assembly. That hose is new and connected. The pic I posted did not show the HIC hose because it was a detail from the FSM focusing on the CB system. I think all obvious hoses are tight. Is there a sloenoid in the carb that affects idle?

[SethM]

ok, its looking like the first fuel cut off solenoid..... Going to repeat my test (was in a hurry this morning) but that seems to be kaput. Now the bad news, I live in New England where no wrecking yards have anything this old. Toyota says the solenoid is no longer available. NAPA can't get it. Autozone suggested a $400 new carb..... Help. Going to post over in the Parts section. Any of you folks out west got an extra solenoid?

Thanks,

[ARCHINSTL]

Maybe a long shot, but - my usual reply on "NLA" from other Toy dealers is to suggest a call to Butler in Indy.
'Sometimes I sound like a broken record with this company, but it has found Toy parts that other dealers have said were NLA.
Call 1-800-921-2851 and ask for Dan Egan. Tell him Tom in STL sent you. No lollipops, but it helps to let them know I spread the word - he/they've certainly helped me out in the past.
I'd go to the EPC here in the Parts Forum and look for (possible) numbers first - there are two solenoids.

OT, but National Carbs in FL or IL have much better prices on reman carbs - I got one from them back in '05.
Tom M.