Rear Axle Bearings and Stuff

[ARCHINSTL]

Well, it looks like I need to replace the DS bearing +.
I will remove the axles myself, but take to a machine shop for removal/installation of the bearings. Apparently the only tool I need to rent is a slide puller. I will order the OE parts from Butler, but wanted to ask about what I will need.
Will need (2 each):
Inner gasket - retainer gasket - inner retainer - bearing - outer retainer - oil seal.
Any other suggestions?
Tom M.

[sdoan]

Tom,

I didn't use a slidehammer on the last 3 I did so you may not need it (but I live in the mold belt, not the rust belt).

And the only parts I bought were the bearing (which comes with the inner retainer lock ring) and the seal. If the backing plate doesn't come off the axle housing, the inner gasket will be intact. The gasket under the outer retainer usually holds its shape so I just reuse it. I grease all the surfaces with heavy grease so that even a poor gasket will keep out water and the bearing will slide out next time.

A clever thing is that the inner gasket (between the brake backing plate and the axle housing) has a drain hole in it so leakage past the bearing and seal leaks down the outside of the backing plate instead of into the brakes. The gasket needs to be positioned correctly to take advantage of this feature.

The trickiest part for me is inserting the seal to the correct depth. The sealing lip of the seal rides on the steel retaining ring, but it has no shoulder to seat against when inserted into the axle housing so it is easy to push it in too far. The FSM has the correct depth.

Good Luck,

Shawn

[Jarf]

I always go with everything new as it is idiot proof but expensive.

I like to use my dremel to cut a slot in the retainer, about 2/3 of the way through, place a cold chisel in the gap and a couple of whacks with a good hammer, it will crack and slide off, I usually take the bearings off the same way. Just be careful no to cut into the axle.

I have seen axles get bent when trying to press the retainers off, best to avoid that method if possible.

[ARCHINSTL]

Glad you mentioned the Dremel method; that is exactly what I planned - the FSM method seemed a little fraught with the possibility of me boogering the shaft.
I just have to find a local shop that will use the hot oil procedure.
I do have everything new ordered from Butler Toy - for both sides. Will post OE numbers and prices when they arrive.
Tom M.

[ARCHINSTL]

The Dremel method of cutting the retainers worked well. I did not try to use it on the bearings - I was apprehensive, so the shop pressed them off.
I'm sure all Dremel-users will realize this, but - use only the fiberglass-reinforced wheels; while more expensive, they can get the job done more efficiently and quicker than the cheaper composition (word ?) wheels, Dremel or B&D.
It took 1 1/2 reinforced wheels to cut the retainers to a 'safe' depth - both then cracked on the second hammer-whack.
Tom M.

[dlb]

reviving an old thread. i'm having a hell of a time pulling a rear axle shaft and not sure what to try next. i've taken several out just by hand before, they usually just need a few good yanks (har har) but this one won't budge. the outer race of the bearing seems to be rusted to the axle housing, or that's my guess anyway since i can't actually see what's stuck. i've rapped on the axle housing around where the bearing lives, sprayed a bit of PB blaster at the outer race/axle housing, and sat there yanking on it for about 20 minutes but it hasn't moved. suggestions?

[rer233]

put the drum back on backwards (ie friction surface facing outwards), start the lugnuts back on by a few threads, and slide the drum in and out violently (hillbilly slide hammer)- it's worked for me before! good luck!

[dlb]

excellent idea, thanks man. i'll give it a try on saturday.

[ARCHINSTL]

dlb -
See:
https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php? ... ide+hammer+
https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php? ... er+#p45146
https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php? ... er+#p50593
Tom M.

[dlb]

thanks tom. unfortunately we don't have much in the way of tool rental or lending programs up here. i tried a few years back but nada. i like peter's homemade slide hammer that is mentioned in your first link though so if the drum trick doesn't work i will try that.

[Jarf]

DLB - just go easy, you don't want to damage either the studs or the drums.
If memory serves - Princess auto sells slide hammers relatively cheaply (china made but should last long enough for this task)
Parts Source (div of CTC) will rent any tool they sell (that was the route I went before I found them at PA).
Check the box before you leave, I ended up making 3 trips, long story....
I have also been known to use a heavy chain and anything heavy I have lying around to make a poor-mans slide hammer, but is hard on the hands.

Good luck, sometimes they can be stubborn.
I never bother to open the braking system and just be careful to slide the axle out without pulling the backing plate, but when they are seized, you have
to be extra careful if using that method, when the bearings are badly seized, sometimes the backing plate is too.

[dlb]

i know what i'm asking for for xmas this year:

http://www.princessauto.com/pal/product ... Puller-Kit

[dlb]

got it with the backwards drum, more PB blaster, and about another 20 mins of yanking. crazy stuck, good experience though. drum and studs are fine--i think you'd have to be super human to damage them with the mere inch or so to yank the drum before it hits the lug nuts. could just be my skinny little girly man arms though.

[Petros]

that slide hammer kit is likely much more than need, and you seldom need one anyway. You can buy a small body dent puller slide hammer for about $10, and than adapt the tip to use it as a drum/axle puller. Not as large but I have used them to get axles out as well.

[larry mcgrath]

long time ago then i wes a kid i used a piece of chain on a axel stud, other and secured to an old anvil we had and throwing it in the yard,if you can picture this,when the anvil hit the end of the chain,shit happend!!!!!!!!!!! damageing the axel by turning the drum around and yanking on it wont hurt anything, this method generaly works every time -a little heat applyed to the axel housing where the bearing seats in the housing always helps.