electronic rust protection--thoughts?

[dlb]

does anyone on here have any experience with electronic rust protection devices? canadian tire sells one here called CounterAct but i've read mixed reviews. i understand the basic science behind sacrificial anodes and charging the metal surface to ward off the chemical reaction, and i also understand that this science is used on ships and buildings but many people argue that the technique works for ships and buildings because they are immersed in water or dirt and are thus part of a complete circuit. cars on rubber tires are not grounded though, so theoretically the science wouldn't work. but what about grounding straps, like people use to ward off static shocks? would those allow enough current to circulate to allow the devices to work? obviously any parts that are gasketed would not allow the current to pass and thus not be protected, but would the majority of the car conduct the current and be protected?

come on, petros. impress me.

[takza]

Think awl...Texas crude.

[dlb]

oh, i'm totally down with spraying used oil in my wheel wells but i'm wondering if the electronic method works at all. if it does than it would help protect the parts that i don't want to spray with oil--pretty much anything besides the wheel wells--so that i can keep my dear terc in the shape he's in.

[Petros]

I am no expert on it, but I have seen it used in metal structures that are in sea water, bulkheads, bridge supports, etc. Corrosion has an unbalanced electric charge at the molecular level, oxide molecules are electrically traded for metal ions at the metal grain boundaries. The idea is with a mild electric charge the polarity of the corrosion interface changes and you "corrode" away the seawater rather than the metal. But I have never heard of it being used on moving vehicles, I doubt it would be safe on something with fuel vapors on board. All metal aircraft for example are required to be grounded before you can open the fuel tank to fill up the tanks. Cars can have this hazard too, and occasionally in certain weather conditions a spark can jump from the filler neck to the fuel nozzle and cause a fire. It is rare in cars, but it does happen, so they have ways of minimizing static charge around fuel pumps (grounding, etc.).

I do not know how you would make a complete circuit with a moving car, and it seems to me unless every part was electrically grounded, you could get electrolysis corrosion in hidden places on a car. Also, if the car sits for very long it would wear down your battery pulling current draw for the sake of preventing corrosion. IT would be easier to coat and seal the car from having trapped moisture, especially in places where they use salt on the roads. I always thought if I lived in an area where they used salt (which I do not), I would clean and seal up the underside real good, and than daily park my car on a ramp next to my driveway and have a pressure washer handy to hose off the underside of the car several days a weak.

[dlb]

ooohhhhh, that's not what i wanted to hear but it's what i expected. i'm planning on painting ron in the next month or so in order to keep him rust free, and then continue with some DCN-style care, waxing and what not. i plan on asking him for some tips after i get the paint on.

we don't get a lot of salt on the roads here but tercs are just so rust-prone that i want to take whatever reasonable precautions i can, so maybe i'll look into undercoating as well.

thanks!

[takza]

Oil only works in enclosed areas like the bottom of doors/hatches/frame...inside the wheel wells best bet is roof cement....or find a supply of the heavy rubberized stuff toyota used?

[Jarf]

This topic has been gaining a lot of traction lately. Sounds like a great idea but Petros seems to have a good handle on the whole thing.

I have always been an advocate of oil spraying, but not so much anymore.
My beloved turtle came from the the Great West Coast and WAS rust free. After 2 years in Ontario I decided I really should do something about it and had it sprayed at a highly recommended shop. Funny how within 1 year I had rust growing in areas that no rust should ever be.
My theory is that while the oil does a good job at isolating the metal it also has a nasty side-effect of collecting dirt. Get enough oil and dirt in places that the vents can no longer drain and you get a nasty solution of oily dirt and water, doesn't take much damp dirt to plug things up. I found this out when I pulled off the 4 mud-flaps last fall. This was certainly the situation I had going on.
I am now back to wash it within an inch of it's life (hard to do at -30C) make sure the venting holes are clear and get paint on anything that gets chipped or dented.
Not a great solution but it does work.
Now if I could find someone who sprays wax that might be different, the Jags used to come from the factory with a wax based spray, they would leak horribly in the sun at first but at least it didn't attract dirt the same way that the oil does.

[takza]

I've been doing the oil thing for maybe 5 years and don't see an issue with it....but you wouldn't want the drain holes plugged...oil or not. Good idea to drill some holes if it won't drain somewhere. My wagon was Ziebarted at some point...and was from Cal-eye-fornia...and still has/had a lot of rust....I've had zero issues with no drain holes!

The mud flaps are a real problem where oil won't work...about all that works with them is a heavy coat of plastic roof cement UNDER them where they bolt on....you can clean up the excess stuff with kerosene.