stupid shifter...

[4x4wagon]

My shifter has WAY too much slack in it. When it's in EL, I can hold it all the way to the right, pull straight back, then push straight forward into third with no problems. I'm assuming its the shifter bushing, but I'm having difficulties trying to remove it. I see there is a plate that sits on top of the trans, but two of the bolts are too far up to reach without removing the trans. Then while searching the manual for help, I noticed where it stated to remove a pin (round one, like a spring, not sure what you call it) from around the shifter to remove it. is this all it takes to get in there and replace the bushing?

[4x4wagon]

Snap ring, that one^^

[Ron B.]

Did you remove the snap ring? After removing it, the shifter lifts right out.

[4x4wagon]

sweet, this car is turning out to be easier to work on than I though. Everything (like drum brakes) looks intimidating, but seems to be easy..


in fact, I have never done drum brakes before, and I'm about to rebuild both rear brakes lol

[Neu]

You can remove those bolts, get a long-ish wrench, preferably a bent one, and get in there. It isn't too bad.

[takza]

You can replace the bushing by removing the snap ring...the bolts are very hard to get too...and they can break anyway.

I'd do only one drum brake at a time...you'll need the other one to use to put the first one back together correctly.

I NEVER approach a repair job saying to myself...well...this is going to be easy. Tends to make me stupid and sloppy.

Best way is a methodical and careful one...and say to yourself "I'll be lucky to do this job right...I'm so stupid"...as you go along and things go right...allow yourself some candy as a reward....and if you mess something up...hit yourself on the thumb with your hammer. Pretty soon...you've become a mechanic.

[4x4wagon]

well I already have the four accessable bolts removed for the shifter, I'm going to have to get a boxed end wrench to get to the other two, so I'm not too worried about them.


as for the brakes, I can only do one at a time.. but how am I going to need one to put the other back together? I'm just buying all new parts for them, and putting it on. new shoes, hardware, and cylinder kits.

as for being a mechanic, I don't think I'm too bad a mechanic myself. Just never have been brave enough to attempt drum brakes. My Acuras have had all wheel discs, and they are the only cars that I've had to ever need rear brakes. I just finally had a reason to pull them apart, I got tired of the car leaving a large puddle of brake fluid in my garage from being parked overnight.

[splatterdog]

When pulling on brake springs use a side cutters. Pliers slip way too easy, and needlenose pliers will go thru your lips. Fortunately I only know the first fact personally.

The hardest part is the top spring/adjuster. When going back together have the spring/adjuster mounted to the installed rear shoe with the spring poking the adjuster front end so as to stay in place and to be in position later. Hook the front shoe to the lower little spring then swing up and put it's hold down on. Then use you thumb(s)for leverage against the shoe when you pull on the top spring to pull the adjuster into it's pocket, then the spring into it's hole in one motion. Just have the little spring on the adjuster arm and done. Don't forget to clean and lube the 6 pads on the backing plates,adjuster's,parking brake lever pivots, and hub if the drum didn't come off willingly.

Get a cheap hold down spring tool. Could pay back in sanity on just the first use. The Toy's uses the regular larger hold down washer. They have smaller ones nowadays on some cars so if you find a cheap double ended one, and you plan on doing drums ever again, go for it.

And as takza said, one side at a time. I still do that when I see something new or something weird I haven't seen in years.

A hose pinch off tool is nice to keep the brake fluid from making a mess while hydraulics are being serviced. Don't use a vise grip.

Good luck

[4x4wagon]

found the problem with the shifter. I made some slight 'adjustments' with the area above the shifter to get to the upper two bolts (and while I was in there, there are two bolts just on top of the trans that where loose!!?!?) when I got it out, I found there is no bushing where the very end of the shifter goes into the linkage >.< I 'solved' this problem the same way I fixed the auto shifter in an '89 Galant. I wrapped some tape around it, to hold it in there steady. It's ok for now, but will need a reap bushing in time. but I got rid of some of the slack, I can now get into first without having to move my leg!

[Ron B.]

My shifter had an excessive amount of play also. The lower boot failed allowing fine, sharp, New Mexico desert sand to enter the chamber below. The mixture of grease and sand did a number on the flexible plastic socket that the shifter ball sits in. In fact the socket was 100% gone! See the difference between what was left of the original and a new socket here: http://tinyurl.com/ksqdh3

The old worn bushing at the bottom of my shifter measures 17.65 mm and the replacement measures 17.97 mm. The old and new bushings are pictured here: http://tinyurl.com/mzbcue There are other shifter-related photos in that set on flickr.

[4x4wagon]

Mine was also completely gone, I only found a little ring of white plastic and about 1/4 inch of dirt laying in the bottom of that area. In that second pic you have, I didn't even have anything on the end of my shifter, just the ball that is the end of it.

May I ask where you got your new bushings from? I cannot seem to find a place nearby that sells them. Have not tried Toyota yet, was going to call them up later this afternoon.

[ARCHINSTL]

May I ask where you got your new bushings from? I cannot seem to find a place nearby that sells them. Have not tried Toyota yet, was going to call them up later this afternoon.

4x4wagon - http://www.tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtop ... ead#unread Check both pages.
Tom M.

[4x4wagon]

Thanks! So here is where I'm at. I cannot get the snap ring out, took it to the shop up the street, and all he managed to do was break the ring into three pieces. So now I have half of a snap ring holding it all together.

[4x4wagon]

Just got off the phone with the local Toyo dealer, they have every part to rebuild the shifter assy. That is for the snap ring ($6.65), seat bushing ($14.55), lower bushing ($5.14), and boot ($11.06) for a grand total of just over $39 including tax for all parts. He said it will take a couple days to have the parts ordered in. So it appears I will be paying Billion Toyota a visit in the near future

[garyfish]

My shifter had an excessive amount of play also. The lower boot failed allowing fine, sharp, New Mexico desert sand to enter the chamber below. The mixture of grease and sand did a number on the flexible plastic socket that the shifter ball sits in. In fact the socket was 100% gone! See the difference between what was left of the original and a new socket here: http://tinyurl.com/ksqdh3

The old worn bushing at the bottom of my shifter measures 17.65 mm and the replacement measures 17.97 mm. The old and new bushings are pictured here: http://tinyurl.com/mzbcue There are other shifter-related photos in that set on flickr.

WOW, Ron... some GREAT pics of your '84 T4WD restoration at those links you posted!

That is gonna be one SWEET machine when you finish