'84 3A Engine Removal

[Trom]

Maybe this question has come up before, but I couldn't find it, so I'm asking myself. What is the easiest way to take out the engine? Also, what tools should I use, 'cause a lot of bolts look like they are extremely hard to reach. Thanks.

[keith]

Look in the repair guides section, there is quite a bit of info there. Heres one to get you started.

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=2271

Somewhere in there is a picture of where someone unbolted the cross member with the engine and trannie on and then lifted the body up. I thought that was pretty cool.

This engine really is easy to get in and out, getting the power steering pump out of the way is the hardest part. There are only four bolts holding the engine to the transmission, two motor mount nuts, and one nut for the torque damper. Getting all the accessories out or out of the way is the biggest part.

[Neu]

Hey there Trom. welcome to the club.

removing the engine is incredibly easy, even for a first time. main rule, save those nuts and bolts...I had so many "extra" after i was done.

[Petros]

There are a few more bolt to remove than listed above: the four large bolts on the bell housing, plus the starter bolts, plus this stupid little 10mm bolt that holds the heater tube (on the carb side of the engine). Unbolt the exhaust heat pipe from the manifold (two 12 mm which will need a deep socket, and penetrating oil). Also there are two side plates between the block and the diff that have to come off (six 12mm bolts IIRC), unbolt the power steering and AC pump (leave the hoses on) and wire them out of the way. Unbolt the front mounts, and remove/unplug all the hoses, wires and cables. I would also remove the distributor to give you room (one 12mm bolt hold it in). Pull the engine from the top and lift it out, I have found this easiest (remove the radiator and hood first!). I have used a low cost "come-along" type hand winch on an overhead beam to lift it, but a hoist is easiest (you will have to rent or borrow that). you will have to wiggle the engine around to get it free after you remove all the bolts and accessories. Lift slow and carefully. lower it onto blocks after your roll the car out of the way.

You will need 10, 12, 14, 17 and 19 mm sockets and open end wrenches, several length extensions and a I find the socket u-joint useful too. And the 12 mm deep socket noted above, and a hoist. A breaker bar socket handle, screw drivers and a pry bar is also handy.

Good luck.

[jetswim]

I am removing my 85 corolla 4AC soon and I assume it is pretty much the same process yes?

[Petros]

If it is rear wheel drive corolla, it should be almost the same, except you would not have the side plates from the block to the front diff, only the engine mounts. If it is the transverse engine front wheel drive, the process would be very different.

[Trom]

Sweet. So, update, I was doing an engine swap, and I have both engines out, but now I am also doing a tranny swap, making automatic a manual, any tips on this would be appreciated. But yeah, you guys were right, it was pretty easy to take the engine out.

[ARCHINSTL]

toodudetool's guide: http://www.tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtop ... f=7&t=1443
It seems like someone else did this as well, but you will have to do a Search.
Tom M.

[Don Jorgensen]

You probably know this but the engine that had the automatic transmission won't have a pilot bearing on the end of the crankshaft. This can be removed from the old engine but it is best to get a new one. New clutch disk and pressure plate and release bearing replacement now would be wise also, probably around $100 total. Also a good time to get the flywheel resurfased if it is glazed. Depending on the machine shop about $25.

[Trom]

Ok, so now after reading all that I'd have to do for a tranny swap and looking at the time I don't have, I decided not to do it. So I just put the engine from the parts car into mine and I got the torque converter lined up and I had gotten three bolts in, but the fourth, bottom left, I couldn't for the life of me get it in. Is this a problem that regularly happens? If so, how do I get it in? 'Cause I can't find any problem, it's not caught on anything and I'd assume that If I had three bolts almost all the way in, then the fourth one should just go in no problem. Any comments would help, thanks.

[Petros]

do not force it together. If you have a spine missalignment you will damage the transmission if you force it. Get it to fully mate by hand before you bolt it up.