4wd selector shaft oil seal replacement?

[4wdchico]

Has anyone managed to successfully replace the oil seal on the transfer case for the shaft that controls the 4wd selection without removing the transfer case housing from the trans? It is the last drool point on my ride and it would be really nice to get it done.

[takza]

I have the seal that I bought for my other trans...issue is getting the arm off to put it in...tapered pin is a biatch. I've tried wrapping cotton string /thread around the shaft behind the arm...helps some. One member got it off...but had to cut it off I think.

[splatterdog]

Just looked at my extra trans. The shift lever looks like it's easily removable. Just a pinch bolt holding it on. Remove it and maybe tap a screwdriver in the slot to spread the shift arm hole if it's tight.

Make sure you scribe it's position on the shaft before removal.

For many seals, especially the small ones, I usually use the screw method of removal. Carefully drill a small hole in the face of the seal. Make sure you don't walk the bit into the shaft or housing. Also make sure you don't put the drill bit any deeper than it needs to be too. Then thread a sheet metal screw into the seal, again only as deep as needed. Then pull with a pliers and/or pry with a screwdriver.

Then use an appropriately sized deep socket to drive the new one in. Many times with the rubber cased seals, they just push in by hand too.

Good luck!

[ARCHINSTL]

This pinch bolt is similar to what was used to hold the steel crank arms onto the spindle in older import bicycles.
Except - it was called a "cotter." Europe called OUR cotter pins "split pins."
Anyway, here are some links to the bicycle tools:
1. http://bikesmithdesign.com/CotterPress/index.html - small & looks like it would fit
2. Park Tool also made the CR-2, which is similar to the above, but it is discontinued and I could not find a pix of it. ...Many shops may still have it, so perhaps it can be borrowed - it might fit, but unsure about the space available.
3. http://www.sheldonbrown.com/var/pages/var0012.html - I had one of these - a tool from the Dark Ages. BIG $.
4. http://www.flickr.com/photos/29233640@N07/3066678449/ - Might work - I never tried it in the shop
Tom M.

[takza]

Just looked at my extra trans. The shift lever looks like it's easily removable. Just a pinch bolt holding it on. Remove it and maybe tap a screwdriver in the slot to spread the shift arm hole if it's tight.

LOOKS easy, but isn't? You can effectively ruin the trans for use IF you cause a worse leak without getting the arm off...OR...you damage the shaft. So if you run into a stubborn pin...be careful.

I don't have any real issue with mine right now...but I CAN just run the car up on ramps...take the front diff filler plug out and fill it...leaving it overfull some. You do need to watch constant drips because they can loose a lot more oil than you might think.

[Shannon]

I have successfully fixed some leaks with Seal All.
It doesn't always work though. It depends how dry you can keep your
working area.
http://www.biosafe-inc.com/sealall.htm

[Shannon]

The transmission I just put in my car had this very leak. The seal around the metal "rod" that comes out of the transmission to shift 4WD. Everything comes apart easily, but the oil seal does not want to budge. I am afraid to make it leak more, or ruin it and not find another one. So, I just used the product I mentioned in my last post, seal all. It worked, no more drip. I can't testify to how long this will work, but other fixes have lasted years.