Finally got the tranny back in!

[Henry]

After about an hour of wrestling and cursing, I finally got it back in. Its not nearly as hard as you all made it sound (yeah right). My method was fiddle around with a jack for a while until it looked futile, then I just pushed the jack out of the way and somehow got it up on my chest and from there it slid right in. Taking the imput shaft out was biggest help... don't even try with it still in.

Now, a question. Im going to have to repair an oil seal on the differential CV shaft hole and there is a boot torn in half on the other side. I know that driving the car with a torn boot will lead to Ujoint failure... but if I'm planning on getting rebuilt shafts anyway for some PM is it going to matter?

Another torn boot I found was for the steering arm (?) where it attaches to the box. Need to be replaced real soon or can that wait a bit, too?

[ARCHINSTL]

This is what I used as a temporary "boot" for tie rods:
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/sto ... =100388906
It would be available at most hardware stores. I simply wrapped it and secured it with zip ties. I did stuff grease into the existing (torn) boot. It worked OK for a year plus, until I finally did the new inner and outer rods. The replacement boots were $28 from Advance in 2006.

I would think this would also work for a Band-Aid fix on the CV boots - but not for long and in really wet weather.

Incidentally, be CERTAIN you don't seat the CV inner seal too far. It WILL leak. I know...
This is the one to get, from whomever (there is a similar one which won't work well-no "lip"):
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDeta ... er=0523521
I used a modified plumbing pipe connector to seat it - had to grind out the inside of the piece, but it DID work.
Tom M.

[Highlander]

In regards to the steering rack boot, if you have power steering, then it does need to be sealed up, the PS fluid will drain out if its not-it uses the fluid to lubricate the rack. When I did the YoTrois, I locked the steering column, pulled the tie rod end, unthreaded the tie rod being careful not to bump the tie rod end out of place (relative alignment), replaced the boot, rethreaded the tie rod until the dirty threads were close to the collar and the rod end would just fall directly into the steering arm, and tightened it all up. Don't forget to top up the PS box as well.
I put the axle shaft seals in with a hammer and punch (I've got lots of experience doing that) with no problems, just get the outside of the seal even with the housing and you're good.

[ARCHINSTL]

Hmmm on the PS fluid leaking from torn boots - sure about this?
Mine were torn when I got the car and the fluid was still at the top of the dipstick - it had not fallen by the time I replaced the tie rods 1 1/2 years later: An anomaly?
I'd think that what contains the pressurized fluid are seals.
Tom M.

[Highlander]

Tom- Both of our 85s had low PS levels-looking at the FSM, it seems that there are o-rings and seals for the passengers side, but just an o-ring between the control valve and the pinion. Our PS losses ended when I replaced the boots- I ASSUMED that it was similar to the Sprite's R&P setup where the grease (British grease-or heavy oil to us) lubricates all the way out to the boots. Now, having taken a look at the FSM, I find that there should NOT be PS fluid behind the boots (Mea Culpa for jumping to conclusions ). That being said, if the drivers side boot is torn, you get dirt and sand into the R&P joint, which does not bode well for its longevity or smoothness of operation. Not so on the passengers side, where there are 2 seals as well as an o-ring.
So I can only conclude that our 85s have a bad o-ring by the control valve that is probably an anomaly. I'd still replace the boot for $10 and a ahlf an hour if I was in there.