1983 Federal Emission Control Diagram and Question

[coltarms]

My 83's federal 3AC emissions system is different than any of the flavors found in the 85 FSM floating around. I have a couple of questions:

1. If anyone has a true emissions diagram for an 83 3AC Federal 6spd I'd love to see it.

2. What is the "jet" that the emissions diagram sticker on the underside of my hood refers to? What does the "jet" do? Apparently it goes on the line that feeds the choke breaker.

3. How does the choke breaker/pulloff work on these cars?

4. Why do some vehicles show a check valve in line from the distributor vacuum advance and some don't?

Thanks....

[ARCHINSTL]

I hope this is a little help.
I did this from a photo of the sticker on the hood's underside (whence the wrinkles).
Let me know if the size is OK.
Tom M.

[coltarms]

Looks good, Thanks!!!

I think I may have a bad TVSV. I haven't checked it yet, but it would explain the hesitation/stumble under load. It feels intermittantly like losing a sparkplug but I have pulled all the plugs numerous times and none are fouled. I have replaced the carb with a Holley Reman and the pronlem persists. The EGR is disabled, the IIA, fuel pump, and fuel filter is completely new. All the vacuum line is new, there are no exhaust leaks (upstream from the cat at least,) the choke is working, and the engine temp is good. The hesitation has been there since I bought the car and has stayed regardless of all the work I've done. A vacuum loss via a malfunctioning TVSV would make sense as I get better gas mileage on hot days and horrible mileage in the cold.

[Typrus]

Should've gone Weber! lol.
There ought be a writeup floating around on how to check your TVSV for proper function. They are expensive buggers, I'll say that much....

[coltarms]

Wanted a 4AC swap but have emissions here in the portland area. ORegon is the 2nd strictest in the nation after california. They'd never allow a weber.... Anyhoo, I have the procedure to check out the TVSV, just never seem to have the time. Oh well.....

[Mickey_D]

Just find a friend that lives outside the Protland metro area and register the car at that address. I know plenty of my coworkers at the airport did that.

[badmechanic]

i couldn't get pic to come up

[CASE]

2. What is the "jet" that the emissions diagram sticker on the underside of my hood refers to? What does the "jet" do? Apparently it goes on the line that feeds the choke breaker.

3. How does the choke breaker/pulloff work on these cars?

4. Why do some vehicles show a check valve in line from the distributor vacuum advance and some don't?

Thanks....

2.- It's something that looks like a 1 way valve, but Chiltons says to test it by making sure air flow goes both ways, there's no temp difference, and apparently this "jet" is just a connecter for vac lines, I'm confused by this too, but I hope this helps

3.-fairly standard vac diafragm, there are also AAS thingys giong to the side of the carb that open up air for cold acceleration, much like a choke and it works on vac lines and an elecronic sensor, either way, if your vac lines aren't right, the cold idle will be crumbly-having a working thermostat may give you less cold idle to worry about

4.-I think the check valve is a one way air valve that's not nessessary if there's no blow back carb- I can't remember off hand where those lines go

[CASE]

2. What is the "jet" that the emissions diagram sticker on the underside of my hood refers to? What does the "jet" do? Apparently it goes on the line that feeds the choke breaker.

3. How does the choke breaker/pulloff work on these cars?

4. Why do some vehicles show a check valve in line from the distributor vacuum advance and some don't?

Thanks....

2.- It's something that looks like a 1 way valve, but Chiltons says to test it by making sure air flow goes both ways, there's no temp difference, and apparently this "jet" is just a connecter for vac lines, I'm confused by this too, but I hope this helps

3.-fairly standard vac diafragm, there are also AAS thingys giong to the side of the carb that open up air for cold acceleration, much like a choke and it works on vac lines and an elecronic sensor, either way, if your vac lines aren't right, the cold idle will be crumbly-having a working thermostat may give you less cold idle to worry about-also, make sure the valve in your air cleaner intake end has a diafragm on top, with a hook going down to the top of the valve flap, this opens to the lower hot air pipe that is often missing. If this simple valve setup is working, your warm up works a little better

4.-I think the check valve is a one way air valve that's not nessessary if there's no blow back carb- I can't remember off hand where those lines go

[Petros]

It is easy to by-pass the TVSV valve. This valve is supposed to cut out the vac advance when the engine is cold, and cut it back in when it is hot (presumably to reduce emissions, but it also reduce the economy and exhaust valve life). You will get better gas milage when there is alway vacume to the vac advance. So determine which line goes to the ADVANCE side of the vac advance, and conncent it directly to the vac sourse. The others sould be capped off. When it comes time for the emissions inspection, put it all back.

If anything the by-pass will tell you if it is the TVSV valve that is leaking. I would not buy a new one if they are that pricey but get one at a wrecking yard, or try sealing it with RTV (they usually leak around the base where the plastic meets the metal base). I have done both with good results. I refuse to spend money on something that reduces the fuel economy since it is already costly me to have it on the car.