Engine Rebuild

[Typrus]

Okay guys, I really need some help here.
I am in the final stages of my engine rebuild, about ready to order the kit, but my parents refuse to help me pay until they know what tools I need and how much it'll cost. So, knowing some of you have done rebuilds.... What will I need??? This is important folks, as it has to be done soon or else I'm screwed for God knows how long.
So far...
The crank has been machined .01 on the mains and .02 on the rods. Took .02 due to my sis throwing a rod, as I told you before. Shop says crank is otherwise fine.
The block has been boiled, honed, and painted "Grabber Green". Green is more unique than blue red or orange. Dunno how it'll look.
The head is half-way ported. Looking to either get it cleaned up and 5-angled (around $150-200) along with decked 20 thousands (will bump compression up around .6 or so.)

Other than that I'm nowhere. I need to get the cam and the rebuild kit. WHAT ELSE??

I might've lost a few bolts in the maybe 6 months this engine has been apart. Toyota dealers good source? Or just hardware store?


Help me out please folks!

[GTSSportCoupe]

I don't think you'll need any special tools. I'm sure you have the abnormal tools already, like a clutch alignment tool, a good quality torque wrench, 12 sided socket set, valve removal tool. Toyota engines are pretty basic and easy. Definitely buy the bolts at Toyota. Then you are guaranteed to get the right strength etc. Hope you are continuing to take pics.

[Typrus]

I've actually been a bit lax on the pics... Sorry... You have as much as me so far. Please keep reminding me and I'll try and do better as it builds up...

Are you sure? No Micrometer or anything?

Aw dammit... I have to do the rear oil seal... Will I get away with just smacking it in with a piece of plywood and a rubber mallet?
I'm getting scared....
I have a random intermixing of 6 and 12's... Torque wrench is a yes, but it HAS been dropped... Might have to recalibrate it...
Will I need in/lb and ft/lb? I only have ft/lb....

I'm considering getting a 4AC head off eBay... Any more worth it than the 3AC? Or a total and complete waste of $140? Comes with remanufatured head, cam, rebuilt valves...

[tercel4wdrules]

A piston ring expander? Might need a set of feeler guages?

The rear main seal... my favorite! I talked to hornett22 and he said that prying it out with a thin **modified** (perhaps tape the end??) and lube the seal well with multipurpose grease and carefully install it with a soft hammer and it is imperative that it goes in straight during the installation. There is another method with involves removing the oil pan but I can't remember that procedure too well... I think that one was safer to remove the thing where the seal goes but it's more work.

For that 4A-C head, it depends, you may get something good... $140 doesn't sound bad but over here you can get a valve job done for ~$125 assuming all is well as far as the head goes. Some members here have had mixed experiences with remanufactured heads.

[Fingers]

Yeah, you can tap the seals in with a piece of wood and a hammer. The only FOR SURE 12pt socket you need is a 10mm (head bolts). You can use 6pt anywhere else. Yu can get away with only a ft/lb torque wrench, just be careful when doing the oil pan, pulley bolts, etc. I am not sure if a 4AC hed will bolt on without 'some' modifications. My 3A head is close, but not exactly the same as my 4A head was, although the differences were mainly in the coolant passages, if I remember correctly. It's a shame, I spent several weeks redoing my old 3A head, and someone tossed the cam caps. So now I have a big piece of aluminum. What a bitch.

[Starfire]

Clutch alignment tool? I just use an old broom handle...