Alternator Belt Ripping (Accessory Belt)

[Max1234]

For reference, I'm driving a 1986 4wd automatic wagon.

I've looked through the guides on here along with my repair manual, but I can't seem to find anything about belts except for the timing belt. It looks fairly self explanatory, but if anyone has experience replacing theirs, I'd like a little guidance. Is there a way to replace the alternator belt without removing all of the other belts? Also, it looks like I'll need to remove a radiator hose, is that true? Removing everything seems like a lot of trouble to get to the accessory belt so I just want to double check that that's the correct way to do it.

Once I'm able to remove the alternator belt, how do I make sure the pulleys are aligned so I don't tear the belt again? I think the last person who owned this car had it on a little bit too tight and a little bit out of line.

Thanks in advance for your help.

[ARCHINSTL]

The PS belt must be removed and, if you have it, the AC belt as well before installing a new alt/water pump belt. There is not a lot of room to operate, but it must be done.
On the crank, the first pulley is for the PS - the second is for the AF - the third is for the alt and water pump.
The alt and AC tension adjusters are self-evident. The PS adjuster bolt is on a slotted arm and is visible; what is NOT as visible are the two 14mm bolts which must be loosened as well - one is below the pump and to the rear and the other is also below, but at the front.
The pulleys are perforce in alignment; I don't see how they could be misaligned.
I also do not understand how the belt could be "ripping," save just from age.
Note that the AC and non-AC cars have different alt/water pump belts. Be sure to check.
Good luck!
Tom M.

[Petros]

A worn old belt starts unraveling, with exposed inner cords, perhaps that is what appears to be "ripping". Misalignment is not likely but it can happen.

it is possible for it to be misaligned if the lower pivot bolt is loose or fallen out, or the support bracket is loose, though that is pretty rare. Usually you can "eye ball" the pulley alignment by sighting down the belt line, if it looks straight, it should be fine.

You do not have to remove the radiator hose to change the belts, but loosening and removing the power steering pump belt is a bit of a chore. You have to loosen the pivot bolt under the pump, and the several clamp bolts on the top side, including the brace support on the front of the pump, to get it to move. It is not easy to get it to rotate if it has not been removed recently.

if the power steering bolts are really frozen it might help access to drain the radiator, remove the hoses, the electrical connector at the bottom, and remove the radiator. It comes out easy, two 12mm bolts hold the brackets that hold the radiator that just lifts out.

Good luck

[Max1234]

Thanks for the answers. In terms of ripping, I'm sure the belt is old, but it almost looks as if the edge of a pulley ate into it. It could very well just be from age. It is on there tighter than any other car I've owned so I can imagine if something were to be hitting it that isn't supposed to, it's bound to tear. For now, there's no noise and it's still driving perfectly fine, but if the belt snaps I know I'll be stranded. I'm not sure I can do this one on my own though, I may have to find a shop. It's also the middle of the summer in Phoenix so I'm not looking forward to fixing anything in this heat. Thanks again for the help.