Need 83 Trans!

[jaredheath]

So I have an 83 4WD SR5 that is waiting for me up in Rock Springs, Wyoming.
I got stuck on the way home with a trashed transmission.
Just figured I'd toss up a post and see if anyone has a parts car with a good trans sitting around.
OR.
What would be even better is a rebuilt or refreshed trans that one of you trusted sources have worked on and can guarantee its shape and future. I want to take this one well over 300k and it's only around 195k right now.
Just seeking out my options!
I'm not wealthy, but I'm willing to pay for it and get it shipped to my car. But would love it even more if someone had one close enough I could transport the car to, and watch/learn from someone experienced the swap out process.

Just a shot in the dark! ..a very specific and logical dark.

thanks guys!

j

[Jonymoto]

Jared, later tercel transmission will also fit in your 83 model. Just be aware that the final ratio on the later model is 4.1 whereas yours is 3.7. you will need to swap your front diff or change your rear diff as well, otherwise your front and back wheels will rotate at different speeds in 4wd and you will break something. Unfortunately I'm in Oz, otherwise I would've been happy to do the swap for you for free.

[xirdneh]

If you only need tranny just swap tranny only. By separating it from differential/bell housing, then you do not need to worry about difference in gear ratio of differentials. Provided your differential is good.

[jaredheath]

Thanks guys

yeah Jonymoto, that's super helpful information. Petros was talking about which model years had which ratios as well, so I'll be sure to not screw that up.

and Xirdneh, I got your message a little while ago. I'll definitely keep that in mind depending on what I can find and if I tackle it myself or have a professional handle it.
would separating them mean disabling the 4wd, or is having that separated something that just could be done to any model regardless?

[Petros]

what he means is the front diff assembly (built into the bell housing), can be unbolted and separated from the main gear box. so you can swap the whole assembly of the front diff without worrying about changing the sensitive adjustment between the ring and pinion gear since you are swapping across the whole housing assembly. It will not disturb the ring and pinon gears.

There is one hazard with using your old differential assembly, if you bundled up your trans likely there are fine (and not so fine) metal particles that got into the front diff housing when the trans gave up. It may have already done damage to the front diff, or not, so it must be checked. Flush the whole front diff assembly out or the contaminated gear oil will eventually do damage to the old diff, and perhaps even do damage to the new gear box.

the lubrication chambers in the front diff housing, the main gear box, and the transfer case all share the same lubricant, so transfer of contaminated gear lube is very likely. If the front cover of the front diff housing is removed, all of the old lube flushed out with solvent, and the gear faces carefully inspected for wear or pitting, than you can reuse your old front diff assembly.

There is also a chance however that the front diff got trashed as well, so it is possible that you can not use your old front diff assembly anyway. only an internal inspection will tell.

You can put the wrong ratio front diff from the whole transaxle assembly to get it home, just do not use the 4wd. You will not want to disconnect the 4wd, becasue you will need the drive shaft, transfer case, etc. and all of the associate parts in place to keep the gear oil inside the housing. Once you verify that it is in front wheel drive, you can disconnect the selector level to prevent inadvertent shifting into 4wd. Though that is not really necessary (unless you can not help yourself from pulling and pushing on all the levers inside the car as you drive it).

IMPORTANT!!!! Also, one other important detail to verify before you drive it. Though it is less likely, but I have found this on 3 different project Tercel4wd cars that had blow trans or rear diffs. Because the two different front ring and pinion ratios are interchangeable (and many parts interchange manuals will incorrectly state that they are interchangable), many mechanics, including professionals who should know better, may have put the wrong front or rear diff in the Tercel from a previous repair. Anytime someone tells me it has a "new" transmission, this is a very real possibility, and it might be why your current trans bundled itself up.

So if you get another trans installed, DO NOT USE THE 4WD!!!! until you can verify that your front and rear diffs are the same ratio. you can do this before you do the repair, after the new trans is installed, or after you get it home. BUT IT MUST BE DONE.

On a car this old, and so much bad information running around about them, you never know what could actually be in your car until you verify it. Do not assume it has the factory transmission or rear diff in the car.

This will save you a lot of costly heart ache, so MAKE SURE YOU VERIFY what front and rear ring and pinion ratios are actually in the car, before you use the 4wd.

There a number of ways to do this, there are threads on the topic. It can wait until you get home, but do not neglect this very important part of preventative care before you ever engage the 4wd.

good luck

[Jonymoto]

I strongly agree with Petros.
However, I would remove the link between the 4wd lever (gear stick) and the gearbox under the car until you are 100% sure that the front and rear diffs are the same ratio. That way you can't accidentally put it in 4wd when inside the car. Also, replace the output shaft seals and the small seal on the lhs of the gearbox where the 4wd link is connected. This small seal is much easier to replace with the gearbox out of the car. Finally, when you fill the gearbox with oil, make sure you loosen the 3rd drain plug by 8 turns otherwise you will under fill the gearbox. Who ever does this for you may not be aware of this.

[Petros]

not a bad idea to replace all of the seals while the trans is out of the car. they do not cost much. order them ahead of time: input shaft seal, rear drive shaft seal, CV axle seals (two, one on each side of the front diff housing), and the 4wd/2wd selector lever seals. There is a thread on this topic that lists all of the seal part numbers in the part number section of the forum. lubricate the seals surface with gear lube before you install them.

all but the input shaft seal are not too difficult to reach after the trans is installed. so if you do not have time to get the seals, at least get the input shaft seal and install it with the trans out of it. it is inside the bell housing and you have to remove the trans to replace it. all the others can be done with the car jacked up and you laying on your back, not pleasant but it can be done without removing the trans.

[Jonymoto]

Jared, was the 1986 6 speed transmission from vwrobus not a goer?

[jaredheath]

if i end up having to let the shop do it while i'm home, i'm definitely talking through all of this stuff with them. i want to make sure it's done right. i wish i could get it to one of you guys!

and Jonymoto, i think he already sold that part.. i didn't end up having any time to go check it out and be sure it is a solid piece for the car before i left SLC. and he's really wanting to sell it right away, so i'm not going to make him wait. i might've found one online though that is warrantied.
what do you think of this?
http://www.lowmileageparts.com/1984-TOY ... 125NvT3anO

[xirdneh]

I would say its not a bad deal if they will take it back if it turns out to be bad
Shipping would be expensive from anyone else

[NWMO]

I strongly agree with Petros.
However, I would remove the link between the 4wd lever (gear stick) and the gearbox under the car until you are 100% sure that the front and rear diffs are the same ratio. That way you can't accidentally put it in 4wd when inside the car. Also, replace the output shaft seals and the small seal on the lhs of the gearbox where the 4wd link is connected. This small seal is much easier to replace with the gearbox out of the car. Finally, when you fill the gearbox with oil, make sure you loosen the 3rd drain plug by 8 turns otherwise you will under fill the gearbox. Who ever does this for you may not be aware of this.

Hey Jonymoto,

I will look at some FSM pics, but am trying to figure out what third plug you are referring to? I just renewed my tranny oil by draining from both bottom plugs and I filled to the top plug. It took nearly 4 qts, so I felt pretty confident, but would like to double check.

Chris

[Jonymoto]

There is a drain plug to the right of the speedo cable connector - see photo. It is a different size to the other two drain plugs, 17 or 19mm spanner size. You have to loosen 7-8 times when you fill the gearbox.

DSCF2463.JPG

[Jonymoto]

It is the one on the top right corner in the photo.

[NWMO]

Alrighty,

Thanks for the pic Johnymoto,

I have not exactly followed the FSM. I drained from the bottom two plugs, the rear plug is in the bottom of your pic. I filled from an upper plug on the drivers side of the tranny that is easier to get to and did not back out the "plug" as I needed. I assume I need to back out the shown plug the recommended 8 turns and attempt to "top off" from the "transfer adapter" filler plug. I'm sure it will be easier when I get the car up in the air some, but looks like a bit of a bugger to get to (on the passenger side of the tranny adapter). Having not loosened or pulled the indicated plug, is there still some old oil in there? I assume it allows air out when cracked the 8 turns?

TIA,

Chris

[Jonymoto]

I'm not sure why you have to back out the 3rd plug. It's probably to allow oil to flow to the back part of the gearbox. Maybe Xirdneh or Petros will be able to confirm this.
When I replace my oil, I remove all 3 plugs to make sure all the oil gets out. But I found that you get a bit more oil in when you fill the gearbox with the 3rd plug loosened 8 turns. Normally I jack up the car on the left hand side to get to the plugs (and also use jack stand to be safe) I remove one of the filler plugs on the driver side (in your case as you are lhd), then I remove all 3 drain plugs. Then I lower the car down to get the car level to make sure all the oil is drained. Afterwards, I raise the car again and re-install the drain plugs with new washers, but leave the 3rd one loose by 8 turns. Fill the gearbox until oil comes out from the filler plug. Then I lower the car with the drain pan under the filler plug hole. This will make the car level and a small amount of oil will come out. Raise the car again, replace the filler plug and tighten the 3rd drain plug.
When the car is raised it is not hard to get to the 3rd drain plug. Others may not remove the 3rd plug, but I do it to make sure that that side of the gearbox is fully drained and also I like to replace the washer to avoid any leak.
I know it's a pia, raising and lowering the car especially when with using a jack stand. Once I raised the car up to rotate my tyres. Luckily the wheels were still on and I wasn't under the car when it came down. The scissor jack had stripped its thread. So I always use jack stand.