Tercel won't idle and having choke problems
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predator815
- Newbie
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Wed Mar 30, 2016 10:45 am
Tercel won't idle and having choke problems
so yesterday night driving home i noticed my car idling at like 2000 rpm. it's always idled high and i've just never had time to adress the issue it's usually around 1200. then this morning 2500 and if you pump the throttle to unset the choke it flat out dies. Any ideas here? i'm gonna go ahead and replace all my vaccum hoses and stuff like that and eliminate all possibilities of a vacuum leak. I opened up the choke with the air cleaner off while it was running and if you give it throttle it runs but dies if you try and let it idle at all. last night it was running after shut off hard enough i had to kill it with the clutch. This is my work vehicle so i've gotta get it running as fast as i can. I am driving my ramcharger right now as a spare vehicle lol. Any suggestions would be great thanks for your time. and the choke does not want to open up all the way. i've had very few moments where my car will actually idle down to normal but that was when the car ran halfway decent
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Petros
- Highest Ranking Member
- Posts: 11941
- Joined: Sun Jan 28, 2007 6:31 pm
- My tercel:: '84 Tercel4wd w/extensive mods
- Location: Arlington WA USA
Re: Tercel won't idle and having choke problems
Welcome to the forum!
sounds like a vacuum leak, perhaps a large one. My car acts this way when the larger vac line that comes from the base of the carb, and goes into the fitting on the under air filter assembly comes off. It kept happening so I put a plastic tie-wrap around the end to snug it down, now it stays on. This is a larger hose, perhaps 5 mm ID, so it will let a lot of air in.
you might just do a close visual inspection of all of the vac lines for loose or cracked lines, and you could verify it is routed correctly as well by using the vac diagram that is available elsewhere in the forum, or in your service manual.
After you fix all of the vac lines, look for other sources of vac leaks, using carb cleaner spary while it is running helps you isolate where it could be. check the intake manifold is tight (the bolts tend to work loose), and the base of the carb.
Also, you might pull off the vac line that goes to AAP (auxiliary accelerator pump), the other end goes into the TVSV (that vacuum switch thing on the coolant outlet on the front of the head). If it has fuel in it, the AAP is leaking. Cap off both ends as a temp fix that will still allow it run fine.
BTW, setting the cold fast idle speed is easy, it is on the throttle linkage, as well as setting the warm idle speed. but make sure you have the timing set correctly and all the vac lines fixed and routed properly or it will never idle properly.
Good luck.
sounds like a vacuum leak, perhaps a large one. My car acts this way when the larger vac line that comes from the base of the carb, and goes into the fitting on the under air filter assembly comes off. It kept happening so I put a plastic tie-wrap around the end to snug it down, now it stays on. This is a larger hose, perhaps 5 mm ID, so it will let a lot of air in.
you might just do a close visual inspection of all of the vac lines for loose or cracked lines, and you could verify it is routed correctly as well by using the vac diagram that is available elsewhere in the forum, or in your service manual.
After you fix all of the vac lines, look for other sources of vac leaks, using carb cleaner spary while it is running helps you isolate where it could be. check the intake manifold is tight (the bolts tend to work loose), and the base of the carb.
Also, you might pull off the vac line that goes to AAP (auxiliary accelerator pump), the other end goes into the TVSV (that vacuum switch thing on the coolant outlet on the front of the head). If it has fuel in it, the AAP is leaking. Cap off both ends as a temp fix that will still allow it run fine.
BTW, setting the cold fast idle speed is easy, it is on the throttle linkage, as well as setting the warm idle speed. but make sure you have the timing set correctly and all the vac lines fixed and routed properly or it will never idle properly.
Good luck.
'87 Tercel 4wd SR5 (current engine swap project)
'84 Tercel 4wd (daily driver, with on going mods)
'92 Mazda MPV 4wd (wife's daily driver)
'85 Tercel 4wd DLX auto(daughter's daily driver)
'01 Honda Civic (other daughter's daily driver)
'84 Tercel 4wd (daily driver, with on going mods)
'92 Mazda MPV 4wd (wife's daily driver)
'85 Tercel 4wd DLX auto(daughter's daily driver)
'01 Honda Civic (other daughter's daily driver)
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dlb
- Highest Ranking Member
- Posts: 7445
- Joined: Mon Jul 06, 2009 9:03 pm
- My tercel:: '87 sr5, '83 dlx parts car
- Location: bc, canada
Re: Tercel won't idle and having choke problems
don't bother replacing the rubber vacuum hoses unless they are actually damaged, like melted or something. and even then, you only need to replace the damaged ones.
the reason i say this is that i agree that it sounds like you have one big or perhaps several vacuum leaks, and replacing hoses won't change that. you need to look at the vacuum diagram on the underside of your hood and make sure that all the hoses are going exactly where they're supposed to, and that all the devices the hoses go to are holding vacuum. that means sucking on the hoses that go to the various diaphragms and making sure you can't suck air through.
if your choke has a hard time opening, spray it's pivot points with pb blaster or whatever penetrant you like.
once you have confirmed that all hoses and components are functioning as they should, set the idle, fast idle, and throttle positioner screws as per the FSM procedures. they're really easy to do but make sure you've fixed or ruled out everything else first.
the reason i say this is that i agree that it sounds like you have one big or perhaps several vacuum leaks, and replacing hoses won't change that. you need to look at the vacuum diagram on the underside of your hood and make sure that all the hoses are going exactly where they're supposed to, and that all the devices the hoses go to are holding vacuum. that means sucking on the hoses that go to the various diaphragms and making sure you can't suck air through.
if your choke has a hard time opening, spray it's pivot points with pb blaster or whatever penetrant you like.
once you have confirmed that all hoses and components are functioning as they should, set the idle, fast idle, and throttle positioner screws as per the FSM procedures. they're really easy to do but make sure you've fixed or ruled out everything else first.