The Party Wagon engine swap thread

[dlb]

i don't believe the yellow stickers on the valve cover are an indication of crate engines. i have seen them on every 3ac and 4ac i've had in my tercs. i was the second owner of my first terc and had all of the repair history documents so i know it had the original engine, which had a yellow sticker that said 3A-LC on VC.

[irowiki]

That's interesting, because the "L" means longitudinal! Like the RWD corollas with the 4AC were actually 4-ALC's.

Well it was probably the original engine then, and man was it dirty! I mean under the valve cover it was fine, but the piston tops plus rings were encrusted!

[irowiki]

Update: input seal came in, and for the record, it was the BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0523386

Got it installed and the torque converter seated properly as far as I know! Time to start mating all the external pieces to the "new" engine.

[irowiki]

It seems the design of the oil pump was changed at some point. The oil pump from the 82 engine has an extra lip at the top right that won't allow the timing cover from the later versions of the engine to seat properly. Guess I need an oil pump now

Or maybe trim part of the plastic off the timing belt cover...


The circled area is what is different, I'll try and get better pictures later.

[Petros]

I have seen several minor external changes to the oil pumps, I suspect because the timing belt cover was changed for the different engine installations. If you can make the timing belt cover fit by trimming it, I would do that, but realize than if for what ever reason to go back to the correct 3ac oil pump for this car, that timing cover will not fit tight against it. The newer pumps are also different internally, they went to a different rotor design that is better (flows more oil). But all of them bolt on to the front of the engine and seal against the oil pan gasket.

Check the fit of both the upper and lower plastic timing belt cover, both are affected. I have a brand new pump that was sent supposedly for the 3ac, and after I installed it (with sealant, etc), discovered neither upper or lower timing cover fit. I got another one from a local supplier, and now have a new oil pump, that bolts to a 3ac block, but does not fit the cover. It might work on a 4ac, so I have saving it.

[irowiki]

Oh, so I might as well get a new oil pump anyway then? AISIN Part # OPT031 caught my eye because that is the OEM brand.

I assume the oil pump that came off the blown engine with 60k miles on it is probably toast because it was ran dry, or can it be reused?

I do have two proper timing belt covers (one I got from you actually!), so if I were to modify one, I'd still have a stock one to fall back on.

[marlinh]

I would be suspicious of reusing an oil pump from a failed engine. I would remove it and inspect it if I had to consider using it, but would rather replace it. Just one less worry...

[irowiki]

That's what I assumed. I guess I'll go with the new oil pump route, as it was suggested I drop the oil pan anyway to make sure everything inside looked good. Not sure what I'm looking for though.

I have an oil pan gasket already. Is special sealant needed for the oil pan in addition?

[dlb]

I have an oil pan gasket already. Is special sealant needed for the oil pan in addition?

if you have a pan gasket, just use that. you can use RTV silicone gasket maker instead if you don't have an old fashioned gasket handy but either is fine. do not use both though, that would be like installing two gaskets sandwiched together.

[irowiki]

Alright, I was confused because the FSM describes using some sort of gasket sealing compound.

[Petros]

I always use a thin layer of sealant on the pan gasket, I hate leaks.

If you can get the inside cover off the used oil pump (usually takes an impact driver with the correct size phillips tip), and can inspect the parts for wear and clearances, and you clean it good (Including the pressure relief valve), if it is all within specs, than I would reuse it. If you can not inspect the inside, than replace it. too risky.

Usually you can get the back cover off, but if the flush screws are really stuck, likely you can not get the screws off without damaging them. that is why the correct size tip is important so you do not mess up the slots.

[marlinh]

If you get a rubber gasket, it doesn't hurt to use silicone to make sure it doesn't leak. I don't think cork ones are made for our cars. I hate them, usually I glue it to the pan and silicone it to the block. Make sure your new one is rubber. Less likely to be a problem down the road.

[irowiki]

Figures. The one I got is cork! Will order a rubber one tomorrow.

[dlb]

i've had no problems with cork pan gaskets. if they come folded up, i will lay them flat between some heavy books for a while to flatten them out before installing but that's it.

that being said, i prefer to just use silicone gasket maker rather than traditional pan gaskets. no waiting around for parts on order, no incorrect parts to return.

[marlinh]

Cork gaskets have a shorter life. If they are overtightened they split lengthwise along the bolt holes. They are nothing but a pain, in my book.