The Party Wagon engine swap thread

[irowiki]

Part of my problem is my breaker bar is too big to leverage under the car, I think I need to get a shorter one.

[Gottolovem]

Get the car higher off the ground?

[dlb]

do you have an impact wrench? the air ones are best but there are some really good electric ones available now too. saved my bottom from sheering bolts quite a few times.

[irowiki]

No, but it sounds like I need to get one. I have a small air compressor too!

Peter, I tried ATF down each spark plug hole and let it sit a good while, and no dice. I think the head has to come off and try your hammer idea.

The crankshaft pulley nut on the blown engine came off real easy since the engine was seized. But also because when they replaced the timing bet at 31,000 miles in 2005 (toyota sticker, but why that early mile wise?) they used anti seize!

The crankshaft pulley is stuck, maybe I need a puller?

Get the car higher off the ground?

Dad was over today and he helped show me where to put the jack stands, so now the car is higher:



Going to try the exhaust pipe nuts again tomorrow. Got some more tools for the job, like impact sockets and a better (craftsman) half inch ratchet. Manifolds and the head coming off next:



The "new" engine waiting all the bits from the blown engine.




Since we're doing all this car work now, the wife decided we needed to organize the tools better, so she helped pay for this as an early birthday present:



(getting it home was fun)

[Gottolovem]

WOW she's a keeper hold on to her tight the wife of course not the tool chest although I would keep It to.
Always spend a little more for the quality tools they will last the rest of your life.
Craftsman is good they will always replace a broken hand tool.

[ARCHINSTL]

WOW - I echo Gottolovem's comment!
Tom M.

[irowiki]

Got the head off, tried to hammer on the pistons, and it is still stuck tight. #4 piston was as far down as it could go when I took the head off.

Now what?

[rer233]

Where was #1 piston when you took the head off?

[irowiki]

Oh I meant that piston number 4 is no longer connected to its rod. It is basically sitting at the bottom of the cylinder.

Other three seem to be roughly in the middle of their travel. will get you a better picture when I'm home. Had to go pick up a pulley puller.

[Petros]

That piston has a thrown rod, and likely the connecting rod is wrapped part way around the crank. maybe you can drill a hole in the top of the piston and thread it, put an eye bolt in the hold and pull it up. it might be magled enough so it can not be pulled up, but likely that is what is not allowing the crank to turn. only other alternative, not a good one but it can be done, is to raise the front of the engine as high as it can go (with front mounts unbolted) and than remove the oil pan (several of the pan bolts are a PIA but can be reached with an open end). You will also have to remove the oil pick-up once the pan is part way dropped with a 10 mm open end wrench. that will allow you to wiggle out the pan forward. from there you can see why it will not run. likely you can cut the end of the broken connecting rod off with a reciprocating saw and a metal cutting blade. That should allow you to rotate the crank. If all of the bearing are seized you can also remove the bearing caps from there and knock them free. You will not be able to remove the crank, but if you remove the front oil pump and all the caps you should be able to break it free and get it to rotate.

Good luck.

[irowiki]

It was also suggested that I pull the engine and transmission as one, and then go to work on the crankshaft.

Hey, there's a huge hole in the back of the oil pan already, below where I guess rod #4 would be. Would it work to just cut a much bigger hole in the oil pan?



Here's one picture of the block, will get a better one tomorrow (cleaned out the ATF). The #4 piston, as soon as I touched it, fell most of the way down. The other pistons seem free to move, as they wiggled side to side slightly.



What's the best way to get this nut off the manifold bolt? The whole bolt came off instead of the nut. I was thinking vice grips on the end of it, but I don't want to chew it up.

[tercel4wdrules]

Resist the temptation to loosen the nut off of the stud. Just tighten it as one unit when you put it back together, same thing has happened to me before.

[Gottolovem]

Resist the temptation to loosen the nut off of the stud. Just tighten it as one unit when you put it back together, same thing has happened to me before.

I agree just reinstall it.

If the #4 is moving freely i would drill a hole in the top of it and drive a screw in the hole half way then try to pull it up and out.
It will likley be just as hard to enlarge the hole as to remove the entire pan.

[Petros]

best just reuse it as suggested, I regularly do that. if you must get it off you can try this: soak the nut in ATF, and than find two nuts the same size and thread them on the other end (install "dry" without any lubricant), and tighen them together as strong as you can. But it in a vise, heat the nut you want to remove, and back it off the stud. You have to get the double nuts really tight or it will not work.

last resort is to rent or buy a stud removing tool, you put the nut in a vise and than thread the stud removing tool on the other end and cinch it down. It should allow you to back it off, it is designed to clamp down on the threads without damaging them (though on really stuck ones they do leave a mark).

BTW, the double nut method is a simple way to remove studs from the head or block with out harming them.

[irowiki]

Okay I'll just reuse it, I was not sure. The crack sound it made when it came loose was horrible!

Super happy with the craftsman 1/2" ratchet! Smoothest one I've ever used.