.....acetone used in a Tercel 4WD?

takza · Post by **takza** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 5:34 pm

You should be getting a little less mpg than before...due to having 10% higher revs with the different final ratio. But 16 isn't good..

But I'm using the same carb you are and so is everyone except those using Webers or ????.

Since it's the same engine and carb...something isn't set right or a sensor is bad...etc.

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 6:44 pm

Just how screwy would things get if I use the diffs off the 86 or the 87? Would the tranny "not like" that?

takza · Post by **takza** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 7:38 pm

How about a signature saying what car you are NOW driving and where the hey the parts came from!

I'm not sure what year the engine came from and what car it went into.......I thought you put an earlier engine into a later car.....

Good thing I only have one car and some extra parts...eh?

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 10:10 pm

Big sig. If it worked right. The 86 would be donating the rear axle and either the 87 or the 86 would donate the front.
I know the diffs are different, I'm sure the tranny is different as well. How will a 4.11 on a 3.** setup work? As long as they are both the new ratio it should go well, eh?

Can this be transferred to a new topic? I don't want to thread-jack.

The things I'd be worried about would be bad acceleration and screwy RPM's. Just dunno how bad.

takza · Post by **takza** » Fri Apr 29, 2005 4:47 am

If you are driving an '84 with the '86 engine...then you have the lower ratio diffs and that should help mileage....10 % fewer revs.

There is supposed to be an ECU in this car...not sure if there are any changes between the '84 and '86 models.

There were 2 different carb kits at NAPA covering different years of the wagon. Could check that...something might not hook up the same.

Might visit your local Toyota dealer and talk your way back to the mechanics...if you ask nice they might give you some hints as to where to look.

If you simply moved the engine/carb from one car to the next...the problem is probably OUTSIDE the engine/carb area....vac lines...sensors...fuel lines...electrics? Unless you messed with something in the process.

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Fri Apr 29, 2005 10:20 am

3.** better than 4.11? Then why could I hit 110mph in the 86, but can't break 80 downhill in the 84? I'm confused. Whats the final drive difference?

takza · Post by **takza** » Sat Apr 30, 2005 6:45 am

As far as I know...the later cars ('85-'88) had the higher ratio...10% higher.

It's not the final ratio that's the problem with your car....the mixture or ?? is off.

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Sun May 01, 2005 12:21 am

I put the 86 engine into the 84 body with the 84 tranny.
I want to take the 86 tranny and put it in the 84. The 84 is what I am driving. It has the engine out of the 86. It still has its 84 tranny, but I want to know if the 86 trans would get me better mileage.

I know its not the primary issue. Tomarrow I plan to check for a vacuum leak using the propane method. I still have to get a job to pay the good guys at Import Auto Specialists to examine the carb. Last time they looked at it, when it was in its original body, they told me they expected it to die within the next few years. It does have 190,000 miles of it. If thats the case... Then its the Weber for me. Until I can get an overbore and new bearings. New pistons, rings, bearings, cam, valves... The whole happy redo.
Everyone says this car isn't worth it. I say screw them. I love my baby and I'm going to do what it takes to fix my baby up. Then my other baby is going to get some much-needed love (i.e. the body fixed and a better engine... will the 86 or the 84 get the TDI... hmmm...)

BTW, that Acetone is still making for smooth operation up to 5k rpm's where all power drops off (running 25 degrees at idle after all settings between 5deg and it have not worked... Tell me thats not screwy...)
Also, I've had it start the 1st crank even when cold for a while, then run like crap till its warm, then still run worse than it did, but a bit better than before the Acetone.

takza · Post by **takza** » Sun May 01, 2005 4:48 am

All I can say is if you simply moved the engine/carb to this car and didn't mess with igntion/cam timing...them the problem is probably peripheral...TVSV...EGR...vac lines on wrong...vac advance at dist???

If you had the dist out...you might have put it back in wrong...or bumped and damaged something.

Have you taken the air cleaner off to see if the second barrel is open all the time or something? Tightened the manifold bolts?

My carb might have 220K miles on it and I get good mileage & power...though I've got a rebuild kit laying in a box....saying....use me....use me....

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Sun May 01, 2005 6:35 pm

I labelled all the vacuum lines and re-hooked them right... Made sure all the wiring was redone right... I just dunno what is going on. I tried to redo the hookup at the dist based on the charts because 2 of my labelled hoses fell off and I was clueless how to redo them. All hookups worked the same? When I have my timing light shining on the crank pulley, the mark stays aligned the same through revving, with a little wobble both ways. Isn't that how its supposed to work?
I recharged the A/C today, and when I told it to turn on, the engine dang near died. From 2k RPM idle to almost dead. The A/C toggled itself off when that happened.

WHAT IS GOING ON?

Lateer · Post by **Lateer** » Sun May 01, 2005 10:27 pm

2k rpm idle?
Mine idles at 900 when cold, 850 when warm. That's with the Weber, though.
It doesn't idle stable any lower than that...

The mark should shift when the engine is revved. That's what the vacuum advance does. I think your vaccum line from the carb to the distributor is either clogged or knackered or got a hole in it. There are a few methods of fixing this. Either replace each line in turn until it works or get a can of ether and spray the lines. When the engine goes off its head, then you've found the leak. It's called 'spray leak finder' or somesuch.

The a/c compressor should spin quite happily when the car is running. For it to near die like that means it's pushing something it shouldn't, i.e. it's either blocked or a bearing in it has shredded. Or there's way too much gas in the system...

Hope this all helps.

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Sun May 01, 2005 10:55 pm

I don't know whats up. I hear propane is as good as ester. I don't know why this car is so angry with me. Everything inside the engine sound fine. I listened with a stout screwdriver (ear to the handle method) and I heard some slightly excessive valve noise from the head, but equal all the way back, so I'll assume it is normal in this aged of an engine. The block itself sounds very quiet. Little extra noise from the forward lower bit, I can assume thats the oil pump. It wasn't harsh, just a slight bit noisier.
How do I lean this bugger out? I smell a hint of "burned" gas in the oil, and the pump is brand new. Only 200 miles on the new pump. Straight from NAPA. I can assume this is blowby gas? No oil on the firewall, like in the 86 when the pump died.

Oh wait... When I pulled the dipstick, I found foam on it. Oil foam. What is up with that? I'm using Mobil 1, with the anti-foam additives?
When I pulled the PCV valve hose, I got massive suction from it and the engine started grumbling. I re-plugged it and it leveled to original state.

I really wish I could figure this out.. I'm likely going to have to stop driving for a good while to re-accumulate some money in my bank account. Maybe I'll drop Baby in for a checkup first... We'll see.

Lateer · Post by **Lateer** » Mon May 02, 2005 12:40 am

Foamy oil? Then I'd check your water levels. Foamy oil is usually an indicator of a blown head gasket.
Pull your spark plugs and look at them. If one is wet and oily, then you've got either a dud valve stem seal or a blown head gasket in that cylinder.

Which of the two PCV valve hoses did you take off? The one from the air filter to the valve cover or the one from the PCV valve to the manifold?
I can't see why it'd have huge vauum at idle, or why it'd cause grumbling and lower revolutions when plugged unless you're getting gas escaping through the valve stem seals into the valve cover...

The pump I assume you're referring to that spits oil on the firewall is the fuel pump.

takza · Post by **takza** » Mon May 02, 2005 5:07 am

Since you had problems getting gas to the engine...maybe the line back to the tank is plugged some...causing high pressure to the carb...causing it to flow too much gas. Hit it with some air?

You have 3...suction line to pump...return line to tank...large one for vapor to charcoal canister.

Oil foam might mean you are getting gas into the oil again and the level is too high? Drive it easy....

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Mon May 02, 2005 4:55 pm

How do I get the valve cover off and where do I look for ailments. Also, how much will a replacement gasket cost me? What about seals?
I'll have to borrow my neighbors compression tester if he'll let me.
How hard is it to get these heads off and how hard is it to get them back on right?
The one going towards the carb. The one at the valve cover blew air.
I flushed those lines multiple times. Different issue perhaps? Or am I screwed?
Where is the float bowl sight glass? All my sparks are dry with a slightly off-reddish grey deposit on them.