weber 32/36 carb on an '85

[ARCHINSTL]

I have the port on the Weber hooked to the lower tube of the dist vac canister. I have the vac tube from the gas filter on the manifold hooked to the front upper tube of the dist vac canister (the rear upper has a constriction and is part of the HAC system - if your car is Federal). Mine rear upper is plugged, as the HAC is removed.
The port on the Weber is a short tube on the PS of the carb. See https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php? ... non#p33524
This has worked fine for me - although - there are schools of thought on which goes where: Some use gas filter to front upper only with other dist ports (and Weber's) plugged; others do Weber to lower dist port with gas filter and other dist ports plugged.
Tom M.

[ebayollis]

ok im extremely confused now....lol.
Is there anyway you could take pics and point out which vac line is is which and maybe throw in some arrows pionting what goes where as well?
...sorry

[ARCHINSTL]

Camera is temporarily doggo.
Tube from Weber port goes to lower tube on dist vac can.
Tube from gas filter goes to front top tube on dist vac can. Other port on gas filter is plugged.
Rear port on vac can plugged. Federal cars have this third tube because of the HAC - others do not.
Tom M.

[ebayollis]

is there a vacuum line i need to attach for the cruise and the AC?

[ARCHINSTL]

Dunno about cruise, but AC needs vac from somewhere. I cannot help there, as my AC was dead when I got the car. I ripped off the AC control stuff when fighting the Aisan carb. Dunno if the idle-up feature of the AC and Aisan carb can be done with a Weber - or how necessary it is - others will have to weigh in on this.
Tom M.

[deejay1272]

I have the vac tube from the gas filter on the manifold hooked to the front upper tube of the dist vac canister.

I'm hung up on the "Gas filter on the manifold" part. I have an inline fuel filter and I have a fuel pump that is attached to the rear of the engine head. Is there another filter somewhere on the manifold that I'm missing?

[Highlander]

On the intake manifold, just aft of the TVSV is what looks kind of like a temp sensor but has one or two vac lines coming off of it. This is the gas filter, its supposed to (I think) eliminate any gasoline vapors flowing from the carb connections into the manifold, Gasoline itself flows through this, as anyone who has had their AAP diaphragm break can attest, that why I think its supposed to eliminate vapors only. Check the FSM, pages EC-4 between the TP and TVSV for an idea of what it looks like and its position, or page EC-18 or EC-20.

[deejay1272]

Hmmm - I have both ports on the gas filter capped off after my Weber swap. Should I connect this back to the Vacuum Advance canister?

Ps - I've circled the gas filter below for clarity:

[Petros]

It will not harm the car not to use the vacuum advance. The purpose is when the engine is at part throttle (when the vacuum is high) it will advance the spark to improve economy when in a part load cruise condition. this occurs when cruising at moderate freeway speeds. The TVSV cuts out the vac advance during some driving conditions to reduce emissions anyway, so if you connect the vacuum advance and by pass the TVSV you will improve your cruising economy slightly. IT will have no other affect on the engine in all other driving conditions.

Needless to say, you have to have a working vac advance diaphragm on the distributor, which is not that common on cars 25 or more years old. It is easy to test, put a longer hose on the distributor vac advance (make sure you use the correct port) and remove the distributor cap. Suck hard on the hose and see if the mounting plate in the distributor advances, than you are good. IF you can suck air through it (the plate will not move in the distributor), the diaphragm is shot and it will just act like another vacuum leak.

[ARCHINSTL]

So - does your Redline air filter case actually clear the hood's braces? I am curious. I had to Dremel away mine in the area of the case - and then Dremel the filter element a couple of months ago (see thread in Repair Guides).
Tom M.

[deejay1272]

So - does your Redline air filter case actually clear the hood's braces? I am curious. I had to Dremel away mine in the area of the case - and then Dremel the filter element a couple of months ago (see thread in Repair Guides).
Tom M.

I saw your thread on using dremel/RTV to reuce the thickness of your air filter. Clever! I, however, didn't need to do any of that nonsense. I just installed the Weber (including black phenolic plate, but not the heat shield plate), added the short Weber air filter and buttoned her up. Love it when it all works the way it should. Tom - I have no idea why your car would be any different, but it sounds like you're in good standing at the moment...

[splatterdog]

I would put the heat shield plate back in. It adds very little height and helps keep that exhaust manifold heat under control.

[dlb]

i recently reinstalled my carb heat shield in the hope that this would end my pinging issue but it hasn't, unfortunately. regardless, i'm sure that splatter is right that it's a good idea to have it on just to help keep the carb a little cooler. took about 10 minutes to put it back on and still no hood clearance issues.

[ARCHINSTL]

Well, as to hood clearance issues...
This is far-fetched but about the only explanation I can come up with is: In 2006 I installed new, Toy OE motor and trans mounts. The old ones were worn out and oil-soaked. In 2008 I installed the Weber. Phenolic spacer and heat shield were retained. When the hood was lowered, it was resting on the air cleaner case and still had about 3/8" to go before closing. There was NO way it would close, short of banging down the hood and causing dents (at the very least). So, I HAD to cut the braces; as it was, there was only about 1/8" clearance after this - but at least the hood closed.
Would it be possible the new mounts raised the drivetrain that much?
As to the clearance issues this year mentioned in the Dremel-the-filter-element link - I have no clue as to the cause.
But - all is well.
Tom M.

[Highlander]

Deejay- Don't hook the gas filter to the vacuum advance. The vacuum advance needs ported vacuum, not manifold vacuum. The difference is that when you are idling you have high manifold vacuum and low ported vacuum, and when you are at full throttle, you have low manifold vacuum and high ported vacuum. Since the vacuum advance should be advancing the timing when at full throttle, you need ported vacuum.
That said, ported vacuum will always come off of the carburetor BEFORE the throttle plates, so don't pull it from the carb base plate. There should be (depending on the Weber's original application) a port coming off of the body somewhere above the throttle plates, that is where you should hook a vacuum line to the distributor making sure that you hook to the diaphragm that applies advance to the dizzy (usually the one farthest from the dizzy as it pulls the advance plate). AS Petros said, make sure it works before hooking it up otherwise you're wasting your time.