Howdy y'all

[drege]

Long time since I been around. All over the country. left oakland in my van, ended up in maine, started driving tow truck, on my routes I saw and almost bought a T4WD but talking to the owner she decided to repair its rust and leaking fuel tank (I hope she did anyway, maybe she just didn't like me and didn't want to sell it to me) later that month I found a little honda accord for $300, it just needed a CV shaft and alternator. After that I replaced brake lines, fuel lines, fuel tank and straps, then the big money entire brake system; pads, rotors, calipers and front bearing assy's (captive rotor design)
Now I'm in texas and I'll be replacing the entire exaust system and clutch.
Now I know it aint a T4WD, but they are very distant cousins and honda message board users are assholes, in short, whats some oppinions about sourcing a new clutch? its the 2.2l (f22b1) SOHC V-tec so stock HP is around 145, I'd like to get a proformance type clutch set, I'm poor AF but my monthly expenses are nill.
Should I spring for a racing stage exedy clutch kit for $250 - $400 or get a bargain clutch kit for less than $100?
Would I even notice a difference in performance? would less friction surface of a puck type clutch wear faster? I often launch this thing at full potential torque, but when I got it the clutch was already at max adjustment so I've driven a hard 3.5k on borrowed time, now I have rev in on high RPM shifts, often I just rev match and float gears to save clutch life as I know the gearbox well enough to not grind and buck.

Pictures explained, it looked pretty bad when I got it, partially primered, front end smashed from hitting a truck trailer hitch, replaced hood and bumper from abandoned impound car, was a 4 door though, so I had to keep the smashed up doors.

[BaileySims]

Go stock clutch. Daily it normally. My shitty ass 95 accord would eat transmissions all day long because I have an iron foot. Replaced it 4 times and sold it. Stock clutch held up nicely throughout that rough journey.

[Petros]

a racing clutch for street use is a mistake, even if it does not cost 3 times more. find out the factory brand and shop for it on-line, particularly rockauto.com. sometimes they have close outs and full clutch kits are only $40. the factory clutch should last you 80-100k miles or more. just do not beat it up too much.

I used to be active on several CRX forums, and I agree with your assessment; most ill informed foulmouthed adolescent behavior on that forum. We used to have several older hondas in the family, and am fully toytota now, much easier to work on than hondas (access is always a PIA in a honda, I think there is something mentally wrong with their design engineers), Toy parts are cheaper too. Alas, one of my daughters still drives a Honda Civic, but she decided she hates it (too boring, noisy and uncomfortable), and is looking for a used Lexus.

[keith]

Racing clutches are for racing engines. If your engine can make the stock clutch (in good condition) slip when fully engaged, then you need to up grade, other wise the heavy springs will just wear out your leg and the racing clutch will wear out faster, especially the puc type.

[drege]

Ok yea I would suspect as much, I don't slam it, but get on it on straight lines, I do not wish to destroy the CV axels so baby it on turns.
Some time ago I heard about someone putting a racing clutch in a 93 toyota corrola, but they were insane meth addict.
I don't really wanna take that transmission out anymore than I have to.
It don't slip yet at a stand still, but in a high power pull the friction disk runs several seconds beneath the pressure plate.

I miss it here, I miss my terc. Honda guys are assholes

EDIT: Hey baily where you at in the lone star? I'm about 50 miles up 59 from houston in the sticks. Know of any dirt cheap tercs about?

[BaileySims]

I'm the furthest west you can get, in el paso. Your guess is as good as mine brotha. I search craigs about 4 times a week checking to see if anyone ever posts one.

[keith]

BTW, on this engine, watch for oil dripping from the distributor onto the heater hose just below it. The hose will swell and leak and it is a b*tch to replace. The leak is an easy remedy, its the external O-ring. Just remove the clamp, pull the distributor straight out, it has a short shaft. Get a new O-ring that matches the old one ($3) and put it on. The distributor is slotted so slip it back in and when you put the bolt back in to clamp it, just line it up to the impression it made in the slot over the last 20+ years. The timing is set by the computer anyway so if your off a bit, it won't matter.

No igniter inside the distributor, just an optical cam position sensor.