Front wheel wobble on wagon

[SirFoxx]

Hello --

I just recently got myself an 88' DLX wagon for $650, and am in the process of fixing it up so I can daily it. When I bought it, it had a bad headgasket, and the TVSV valve was broke, though it still ran and idled (kinda). Anyways, after fixing all that with a new gasket and a weber 32/36, I started taking it around the block to figure out what all it may need.

First problem: I noticed while coasting / lightly applying gas, the front passenger wheel will start to wobble (?). It kinda feels like someone is grabbing the wheel, and twisting it left and right. The steering wheel also moves back and forth when this happens. If I then apply the brakes, the instant I touch the brake, it quits shaking / wobbling and is fine for a bit. I replaced the inner tie rod as a test, and that didnt fix it (there are other components that I need to replace before I get an alignment). I have lifted the car up and grabbed the wheel to see if there is play, and there isnt any from what I've tried. From that same side, if I am at a stop sign, and release the clutch, there is a loud clunk from the passenger wheel area. So my question is this: what are the signs of a bad CV joint? And if it's not a CV joint, what else could be causing the wheel to wobble?

Second problem: When the engine is running, there is a whining sound coming from the back side of the motor. When I drive, the whining changes as the RPM's go up. Almost seems like a bearing. Anyone else have this problem, and if so, which bearing is making the whine?

Third (sorta) problem: What the best way to remove latex paint? Cause my car is the recipient of a 1 time special of white latex paint.

[helipilot77]

I wouldn't think it would be a CV joint. I might be suspicious of a ball joint. Soon Petros will chime in. He has much more experience and will be able to make more educated suggestions.

[Petros]

welcome to the forum!

wobble is likely from not enough castor on front wheels, when you apply the brakes the wheel moves back on the suspension, changes geometry. Make sure your ball joints are all good, everything is tight, and no worn out rubber bushings.

My daily driver does this too. I solved this by placing a home made rubber washer behind the rubber donuts that secure the end of the anti sway bar to the lower control arm (these also act as trailing links). if your bushings at this connection are shot, replace them. I did this on mine eventually but the rubber washer allowed me to put this off for perhaps 100k miles. If they are just compressed, and not worn out, than add the rubber washer under the metal washer and nut on the back side of the lower arm. Than have your alignment checked if it is still present.

bearing whine: does the whining go with engine rpms, or road speed. likely if with engine, it is the pilot bearing at the back of the crank, input shaft of the trans locates in it. ignore it, replace the bearing when you have to replace the clutch, or pull the trans for any other reason. It is a big job to replace that $2 bearing, and it will not cause any other problems if it fails (it will just get more noisy).

It if goes with road speed, it might be trans input shaft bearing. Make sure your gear oil is topped up in the trans housing (see threads on this topic). that should silence it. Very important the trans gear oil is topped up, if you have not done it yet, you might just change the gear oil completely (and do an ATF flush to clean it out, and put freash gear oil in the trans. Do this ASAP.

I think the "Citrus" paint stripper will take laytex off, most big box stores have it, non-toxic. Also, careful use of a heat gun should allow you to take it off.

good luck

[SirFoxx]

Thanks for your response petros! I have some follow up questions for you!

wobble is likely from not enough castor on front wheels, when you apply the brakes the wheel moves back on the suspension, changes geometry. Make sure your ball joints are all good, everything is tight, and no worn out rubber bushings.

My daily driver does this too. I solved this by placing a home made rubber washer behind the rubber donuts that secure the end of the anti sway bar to the lower control arm (these also act as trailing links). if your bushings at this connection are shot, replace them. I did this on mine eventually but the rubber washer allowed me to put this off for perhaps 100k miles. If they are just compressed, and not worn out, than add the rubber washer under the metal washer and nut on the back side of the lower arm. Than have your alignment checked if it is still present.

What rubber bushings did you buy to replace yours? My sway bar link bushings are shot / nearly non existent on mine. Or, what size are they so that maybe I can find a universal set..?

bearing whine: does the whining go with engine rpms, or road speed. likely if with engine, it is the pilot bearing at the back of the crank, input shaft of the trans locates in it. ignore it, replace the bearing when you have to replace the clutch, or pull the trans for any other reason. It is a big job to replace that $2 bearing, and it will not cause any other problems if it fails (it will just get more noisy).

This definitely my issue. Wonder how much longer my clutch has with 264k miles on it!

I think the "Citrus" paint stripper will take laytex off, most big box stores have it, non-toxic. Also, careful use of a heat gun should allow you to take it off.

I am not sure at this point if it is latex, or really, really bad car paint. No solvent affects the paint, and I can only scrape it off when it is misty / moist outside. Any other conditions and I cannot scrape it off easily.

[ARCHINSTL]

Welcome!
For OE bushings+ numbers: viewtopic.php?f=16&t=3203
More: viewtopic.php?f=16&t=12265
►►► viewtopic.php?f=7&t=7481&hilit=sway+bar
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►►►►►► viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3171&p=24333#p24333 ◄◄◄◄◄◄
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Tom M.

[SirFoxx]

Thank you for the info. I just ordered front and rear rubber pieces, along with the metal tube and the retainer. Here are some pics of my current sway bar bushings.

[ARCHINSTL]

Boy, I hope the first picture indicates just a perished rubber bushing and not a really necked-down shaft!
While you have the bar off, now would be a good time to spray it and the control arm with a RustOleum product!
Tom M.

[BaileySims]

Crazy that it is the sway bar in your case. I have the same exact clunk. I replaced everything with new rubber components and it still hasn't fixed the problem for me. I took a pry bar to everything on sunday and could not replicate the noise. The only thing I've got is a blow out trans mount. Could be my problem though.

[ARCHINSTL]

Crazy that it is the sway bar in your case. I have the same exact clunk. I replaced everything with new rubber components and it still hasn't fixed the problem for me. I took a pry bar to everything on sunday and could not replicate the noise. The only thing I've got is a blow out trans mount. Could be my problem though.

I replaced every single rubber bushing in the front - plus new KYB strut inserts and springs, etc., and rack external bushings and still have a clunk from only the right side when exiting certain parking lot skirts. Several others have mentioned this as well, and have "determined" that it is a worn internal bushing on the right side of the steering rack.
Tom M.

[BaileySims]

Crazy that it is the sway bar in your case. I have the same exact clunk. I replaced everything with new rubber components and it still hasn't fixed the problem for me. I took a pry bar to everything on sunday and could not replicate the noise. The only thing I've got is a blow out trans mount. Could be my problem though.

I replaced every single rubber bushing in the front - plus new KYB strut inserts and springs, etc., and rack external bushings and still have a clunk from only the right side when exiting certain parking lot skirts. Several others have mentioned this as well, and have "determined" that it is a worn internal bushing on the right side of the steering rack.
Tom M.

Ah man. :/ kinda figured that. Mine has a slow leak from that side. Thanks alot tom. You the man!

[helipilot77]

Crazy that it is the sway bar in your case. I have the same exact clunk. I replaced everything with new rubber components and it still hasn't fixed the problem for me. I took a pry bar to everything on sunday and could not replicate the noise. The only thing I've got is a blow out trans mount. Could be my problem though.

I replaced every single rubber bushing in the front - plus new KYB strut inserts and springs, etc., and rack external bushings and still have a clunk from only the right side when exiting certain parking lot skirts. Several others have mentioned this as well, and have "determined" that it is a worn internal bushing on the right side of the steering rack.
Tom M.

Mine does that too. Thanks for solving it for me. I just picked up a steering rack for it too. Hopefully installing it solves my clunk.

[SirFoxx]

I just replaced the bushing today, and the wobble went away. Now onto the grinding noise coming from the rear. I believe it's the wheel bearings, so that'll be my next project!

[Petros]

get to those rear bearings asap. I had one seize up after it started grinding, melted out the bearing and retainer on the hwy, and lost a rear wheel and axle on the hwyway in heavy traffic at 70 mph. fortunately was able to get to the shoulder without mishap, but did considerable damage to the backer plate and some body damage behind the rear wheel. there is a tread on it with pictures. Usually you can drive for some time with bad bearing, but the first indication I noticed was only 3 days prior to it failing.

good luck.