Tercel won't run right

elitesrock2 · Post by **elitesrock2** » Sat Apr 09, 2016 12:55 am

So i was experiencing an issue with my tercel not idling and the choke staying on. now i've replaced all my vacuum lines, pcv valve, and also my valve cover gasket was missing a chunk about 3 inches long. i've discovered that the fuel pump hose at the top has a hole rubbed in it and was wondering if that could be causing my issue or what peoples advice would be on fixing this car. it's driving me absolutely crazy and i need to be able to make it to work. also has a clunking sound coming from the front right thinking maybe a bad axle or something else maybe. not sure but any help would be amazing

Post by **dlb** » Sat Apr 09, 2016 10:23 am

did it idle properly before you replaced the vacuum hoses?

go over all of the hoses according to the emission sticker on the underside of the hood. disconnect a hose at both its start and end points and blow through it to confirm you've got the right hose connected to the right thing.

also suck on the hoses that go to anything with a diaphragm, like the throttle positioner, choke breaker, vacuum advance, etc. if you can suck air through, the diaphragm is ruptured and needs to be replaced at some point. just plug the hoses that go to any ruptured diaphragms for now.

is the fuel hose leaking fuel or sucking in air? that's the only way it would cause a problem. if it's just a superficial rub mark, it's fine.

what do you mean the choke is staying on? is it stuck open or closed? spray pb blaster or something similar on the pivot points and work it open and closed a few times to make sure it's not just stuck.

start a different thread for the clunking and give more details on when it happens, eg all the time, only when turning left, only when turning left and accelerating, only when going over bumps, etc.

elitesrock2 · Post by **elitesrock2** » Sun Apr 10, 2016 12:04 am

no it wasn't idling before i replaced the hoses. i did that to replace all the hoses that looked extremely weathered and ruinned. I picked up a carburetor from a local junkyard to rebuild possibly or just throw on and rebuild the other, this one seems to be in far better condition. this idle issue came about randomly and when the choke is all the way open engine warm it will not idle. it only runs by itself on high idle because the choke sets it there. it has a stumble when taking off as well. I know for sure it is not flooding because the spark plugs look good

Post by **dlb** » Sun Apr 10, 2016 6:20 am

ok, so it sounds like the choke is not stuck, the car just won't idle once the choke is wide open. is that correct? it still sounds like a big vacuum leak to me.

check the base of the carb and intake manifold for vac leaks. spray carb clear in those areas while it's idling and if the RPM rise when you spray it in a certain area, there is a vac leak there. make sure all the carb mounting nuts and manifold bolts are snug (but don't overtighten them). if you still have leaks at those spots after snugging things up, remove the carb or manifold or whatever and make sure the gasket is still intact.

also check the TVSV (xmas tree-looking thing at the front of the engine with 5 vacuum lines attached to it) and make sure it's not cracked and broken.

again, double check all the vacuum lines and make sure they're correctly routed.

elitesrock2 · Post by **elitesrock2** » Sun Apr 10, 2016 4:39 pm

I'm in process of trying to find a tvsv right now mine was messed up but it was me and this issue was before I touched it. I'm thinking ill change all the vacuum hoses and carb gasket and anything vacuum related pretty much. Any idea where i can get one of those tvsv valves none of the pull yards around here have any.

Post by **dlb** » Sun Apr 10, 2016 4:46 pm

you can still get TVSVs from toyota but they're like $300. you can try your luck on alibaba but beware credit and debit card scams with them. i think the best bet is to buy one off a forum member here.

elitesrock2 · Post by **elitesrock2** » Sun Apr 10, 2016 5:22 pm

I was just told that the 4ac corollas use the same piece so im heading out to get one. Hopefully this fixes it. another question how well do the weber carbs work on these tercels

Post by **dlb** » Sun Apr 10, 2016 5:59 pm

this is covered in the FAQ. see #15.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=7442

elitesrock2 · Post by **elitesrock2** » Wed Apr 13, 2016 9:35 pm

looks like after replacing every vacuum hose and the carb with another one. I'm just gonna say screw it and do the weber conversion. change the intake gasket while i can and run it. I wanted to anyways and I think this will be alot easier for me. my high idle wont kick off now either so in the weather it wants to overheat and yeah don't want no blown head gaskets

Post by **irowiki** » Thu Apr 14, 2016 10:49 am

It should not overheat even at high idle in the hot weather, so you probably have some cooling system issues.

Post by **Petros** » Thu Apr 14, 2016 10:29 pm

check your radiator fan is working, and replace the thermostat with a good one. worth the trouble to replace if it is of unknown age and quality, cheap and easy compared to the damage a bad t-stat can cause. It should be replaced every 2 to 3 years anyway, they go bad and not worth the risk.

I know many here use the weber, but I am not keen on them, it usually takes some messing around to sort them out (adjust the jets, rig the throttle and choke linkage etc). I have owned Tercels with both the webber and the factory carb. My preference by far is the factory carb, it is much more drivable in extreme con condition (very hot and very cold), and developers the best economy. The factory carb is not that hard to sort out and test, it sounds like you are getting frustrated and just want to give up and switch to the webber. but you need to know what the problem is before you can fix it. w hat if you change to the webber and you have the same problem, because of a vac leak at the gasket or a even a crack in the manifold (both of these have happened on Tercel4wd before). So do not think by replacing it you will solve your problem, it may not happen.

follow all of the trouble shooting guide checks in the factory service manual before you toss the carb. It is not that difficult and should not take any special tools (any you do not have you can rent from AutoZone or other auto parts stores). It is far cheaper, and faster, to fix what you have than rip it all out and start over a new, unknown carb that will also have to be sorted out.

good luck

elitesrock2 · Post by **elitesrock2** » Fri Apr 15, 2016 1:46 pm

High idle is like it's sticking at 2200 and slowly starting to overheat cools off super quick if i get moving

elitesrock2 · Post by **elitesrock2** » Fri Apr 15, 2016 2:54 pm

weber already came in the mail. and I wanna do a weber so it is alot more simplified and I can work with it instead of guess and check with all this emissions stuff. It appears to be a very popular swap so I'm gonna go for it and see what happens. not just to take an easy way out. although the alternator issue i have on another thread is what is killing me right now

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