4.11 tranny issues -- Help!!

[garyfish]

Yesterday, I was in the process of doing a clutch job on my '85 SR5. I got to the point of pulling out the input shaft to make it easier to remove & replace the tranny. Had to jerk the tranny around a little bit to free up the input shaft so I could pull it out. Once it was out, I noticed that the race on the shaft was pitted and galled. Looked up to where I pulled the input shaft out of, and noticed that 2 of the bearing rollers were missing! My heart sunk. It looked like the bearing rollers came out when I pulled the input shaft, and then dropped down into the tranny.

I have a spare input shaft which I compared to the one that came out of the '85. See photos below (I've never tried to post photos on the T4WD forum, so I hope this works; if not, I'll figure it out later). Good spare on the left, '85 input shaft on the right.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0FVat ... sp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0FVat ... sp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0FVat ... sp=sharing

A little history: This wagon was my daily driver for about 5 years and I never had any major problems. About 286K miles on the odometer, and I put the last 60K on it. I was meticulous about maintenance and especially about fluids, e.g., making sure that the tranny was topped off with 80W-90 gear oil. The clutch started slipping a little over a year ago, and shortly thereafter it got so bad that I parked it and started driving my '87 T4WD DLX instead. Recently the clutch in my '87 started slipping, so I figured it was time to do the clutch job in my trusty '85. Now this. Damn.

I'm really not up to the task of taking my tranny apart right now and doing the necessary repairs. My first thought was that I need to acquire a replacement 4.11 tranny to drop in so I can complete the clutch job. But I realize that finding a decent tranny from a low-mileage wagon, at an affordable price, is not likely to happen anytime soon.

Any advice, encouragement, etc. would be most welcome.

[Mark]

If you don't want to take it apart yourself, could you take it to a trans shop and ask them to press in a new bearing? It would probably be cheaper than finding a replacement trans.

[Gottolovem]

That bearing needs to be replaced before it destroys the rest of the gear box.
I can dig through my pile to see if i have a "loose" bearing yours will need to come apart.
You need to pull the other cars transmission to do the clutch already so your not completely stuck.

[garyfish]

Thanks for the input.

Would that bearing be available new somewhere? Anybody know what the part # might be?



Before pulling the input shaft yesterday, I had no clue that there were issues with the tranny. It shifted smoothly, wasn't noisy, and there was only the usual small deposit of very fine material on the magnetic drain plugs.

[Petros]

there is a thread somewhere that lists all of the seals and bearing part numbers for the trans, and many alos show where they can be purchased.

[xirdneh]

if you want to re-use that input shaft you need to get a machinist to cut down the race and install a sleeve. i had this done locally for 85.00
the bearing is available
KOYO RNU070614 i got mine from "silverdale transmission" out of silverdale washington, they got it out of portland, oregon

from "Transmission Notes" in "Repair Guides"
4. Input Shaft Roller Bearing info. This Bearing is inside the tyranny pressed into the Intermediate Plate. Approx 1.339” ID x 2.282”OD x .549” or .510” Thk.
It is located at the highest point in the tranny subject to wear first, if oil level is too low.
See Special Note #18.
KOYO RNU070614 Toyota part # 90365-34003 34mm 58mm 14mm recess .03mm
KOYO RNU0713 N/O 34mm 58mm 13mm .02mm
NSK VP34-2 N/O 90363-25025 34mm 58mm 14mm .03mm
NSK VP34-1 N/O 90365-34003 & 01 34mm 58mm 13mm .02mm
They all have a recess cut around one outside edge (53mm dia) and it is used for a retainer (12mm bolt and small plate) to lock bearing in place. The 14mm Thk bearing protrudes aft far enough for the large Idler Gear to make contact and that is probably why the 13mm Thk bearing is used. The Idler Gear is unlikely to hit the bearing because the angled teeth force the Gear aft away from the bearing. I have not seen any sign of interaction on trannys with 14mm bearing.

[garyfish]

thanks, x


I was hoping you'd chime in here

wish I lived down the street from you, though, so you could help walk me through this

[Petros]

that part is no so bad to replace as I recall, you have to separate the front diff/bell housing from the main gear box, which is not such a difficult task. It should expose that bearing and it will obvious what you need to do to replace that bearing. it should not take an special tools, though you may have to carefully drive out the old bearing with a piece of pipe or a very large socket.

with the bell housing separated it will also allow you to clean out any loose parts from the old bearing when it fell apart. As well as inspect the exposed parts for wear. You should also replace the input shaft seal while you are at it, it is also a standard part that is available.

It might be cheaper to replace the input shaft if you can find a good used one, rather than have the old damaged one machined.

Do not be intimidated by it all, you can certainly do all that needs to be done. It is not so bad once you get it all apart.

[Gottolovem]

that part is no so bad to replace as I recall, you have to separate the front diff/bell housing from the main gear box, which is not such a difficult task. It should expose that bearing and it will obvious what you need to do to replace that bearing. it should not take an special tools, though you may have to carefully drive out the old bearing with a piece of pipe or a very large socket.

with the bell housing separated it will also allow you to clean out any loose parts from the old bearing when it fell apart. As well as inspect the exposed parts for wear. You should also replace the input shaft seal while you are at it, it is also a standard part that is available.

It might be cheaper to replace the input shaft if you can find a good used one, rather than have the old damaged one machined.

Do not be intimidated by it all, you can certainly do all that needs to be done. It is not so bad once you get it all apart.

That bearing drives out the other side of the plate!
You have to separate the gearbox case (main cluster) to remove the bearing

[xirdneh]

alltransmission.com Portland Ore 1-800-345-7500 had that bearing a year or two ago. KOYO RNU070614
or i can get one locally and mail it

the bearing can be replaced without taking the tranny apart but to me its just as easy to take the tranny apart
i did a write-up on this in "Repair Guides" a while back with pictures

i would take the tranny apart anyway (youtube vid's) just to be sure none of those bearing parts are floating around in there

when salvageing a good used bearing out of the intermediate plate i heat up the plate around the bearing with propane torch
then use a piece of pipe (1-1/2" pipe 1.9 OD) to tap bearing out. The pipe must fit with no clearance in the hole or the bearing will get damaged, also the end of the pipe must be flat

[garyfish]

thanks for the info folks

I'll see if alltransmission.com still has that bearing available, and if not, I may have to call on the good graces of a forum member (gottolovem??) to acquire a decent used bearing


and, I'll search for that thread in the Repair Guides folder, and watch the YouTube videos



this could all take me a while, as I've got other commitments coming up... I'll post questions and updates here as they occur

again, thanks to all for the helpful advice