Instrument Cluster Emergency Brake Light

[MootsMan]

This problem started a couple months ago. At first it was intermittent, would occasionally come on , then was on as much as off, then on more than off, now it is staying on all the time. I've checked brake fluid level, and it appears to be ok. Do any of you know what this might be an indication of ?? There's nothing wrong with the emergency brake itself, as it still works properly.

[Eatpants]

this happened to me, brake fluid level seemed okay, but i put a little more in anyways, the light turned off so i guess, add a little to your resevoir see if it helps (dont overflow it though =0 )

[Typrus]

Go have your alternator load tested.

[MootsMan]

I had been looking at the fluid reservoir wrong.....I thought what was the max. line was actually the min. line, so it was low on fluid. I had a mechanic tell me that you shouldn't add fluid to the reservoir, but I don't see what harm it will do. Light went out as soon as the fluid was back up to correct level.

[Gasoline Fumes]

Adding fluid won't harm anything, but there is a reason why you're not supposed to add any. As the brakes linings (pads & shoes) wear, the pistons in the calipers and wheel cylinders move further out. This takes more fluid from the reservoir. The system is designed so that when your brakes are worn out the light will come on. If you add fluid and then replace your brake pads, the fluid will overflow when you push the pistons back in.

So you should check your brakes for worn linings or leaks.

[MootsMan]

Thanks, Gas !! will do ! They're probably due for replacement, as I don't think we've done anything to them in the 25K we've had the car. I've never done brakes, anything in particular to watch out for when doing the repair ?

[Gasoline Fumes]

Front disc brakes are pretty easy to change if you have a service manual. Even one of the cheap Haynes or Chiltons will do. The rear drum brakes are a little harder. Imagine a puzzle made out of rusty metal springs. Always do one side at a time so you can compare what you're doing to the other side.

[Eatpants]

so maybe drain fluid back to min (if pads are worn) replace, test drive and if light comes on, add more fluid back up to max


i cant even see the min/max lines on my brake fluid res. so i just guess but i checked my brakes while changing the front transaxles they still look alrighty

[takza]

I clean the top of the plastic resv and overfill it so it's easy to see the level.

With this car...if you let the fluid get to where you get air in the lines....you've bought yourself some trouble.

There's a writeup on brakes.

[Eatpants]

how far do you have to drain for that happen! min line?

[takza]

Pretty close to empty I think...like when you have a line off and it drips.

The MC has to pull some air.

The Tercel is about the only car I couldn't bleed using the brake pedal...had to buy a hand vac pump.

[Chris]

I've never had an issue bleeding the brake system with the brake pedal. It works fine for me. One thing I like to do is to flush the brake system about every three years to remove all the moisture and dirt that brake fluid likes to collect. Using this preventative maintenance I have never had to do any work to the calipers, slave cylinder or master cylinder.

[arbskynxnex]

I agree with Typrus, get your alternator checked. I've had the brake light come on and stay on twice and each time it was the alternator that was bad. If you look at the FSM wiring diagram you'll see that the charge indicator and the brake light meet and then ground out. There is a diode in the brake indicator line to keep power from flowing the wrong direction, it's probably blown, therby lighting the brake light.

[Typrus]

I've bled with the pedal. Just need a helper to do it.

I'll ask Charlie about checking my brakes when I go say hey for a new outlook on carbs.

Also press on the back of your alternators plug. It will jiggle loose... ALOT if the o-ring pops off.