Brake line repair and misc.

[NWMO]

Good evening all,

Finally spun both brake line connections off (breaking the rusted line) at the rear axle to get the correct line/fitting size for repair. As expected, double flare pipe fittings that will be a bit of a PITA under the car. Of course, 4 of the 6 flares can be done at the shop table.

Secondly, removed the e-brake switch hoping to repair, but found it in decent shape. Light is still shining (w/o the switch) so I assume I have a short/ground inline somewhere. Any chance I can pull a new wire in using the old one? If not, I'll likely snip under the dash and hope that extinguishes the lamp, saving the repair for another time.





Lastly, I continue to consider new springs/struts & shocks. While I like the idea of trying Corolla strut assemblies, it appears I can get the heavy springs, strut inserts, bumpers, etc for the same money. Probably go that way. I'm wanting to try the gas mono-shock from KYB, but would like new HD rear springs. My springs don't appear to be horrible, so spacers may be a possibility, but I would love to find a near OEM spring that adds an inch or so. Some posts discuss a t-bird spring, but it sounds like it may very well add more height than I want. Pedders USA seems defunct, and Pedders AUS does have them, but their web site has been a bit of a challenge for me. I found another post fron 7 or 8 years ago that indicated a spring for an early 80s VW vanagon was the same diameter, but a person would need to try the front VW springs on the rear, as the rear VW springs are quite short (10.5" or so) and tapered.

Sorry for the long post, any help on OEM rear spring specs would be great. I forgot to measure the spring diameter, but they appear to be about 12" w/load and only a couple of inches longer w/o load?

TIA,

Chris

[teranfirbt]

I've got rear springs from an '89 Pathfinder under mine, it raises it around 2" from stock ride height. You can cut a coil or 2 to make it closer to what you want.
On the parking brake light, you might want to check out your alternator. 80's Toyotas had the parking brake light linked to the alternator oh-shit light for some reason.

[Notmikeb]

Also, the brake light comes on when fluid is low. There is a sensor in the master cylinder cap. The fact that you're working on a brake line suggests you may have a low fluid situation.

[NWMO]

Thanks so much fellas,

Notmikeb - with a failed rear line, it hasn't maintained pressure or had the correct fluid amount while I've owned it. I will leave until I get the brake lines repaired, brakes serviced and bled, then see where we are. Thanks again.

teranfirbt - I've read a fair amount of your posts related to the Pathfinder springs, that is the type of info I'm looking for, just hoped to find something a little closer height wise.

Chris

[Petros]

I have never had a problem with brake lines rusting out where we live, but I have seen in both NAPA and O'Reiley's prefabricated brake lines, with flare nuts mounted on both ends. These seem like a good way to go, since I have not had good luck with flair hose tools either. the brake lines are steel, unlike the soft fuel lines, so getting the tool to make a proper flair to seal has always been a problem.

You might check your local auto parts store, they sell them in different lengths and sizes, see they have them in metric sizes (they should I suspect, but I have never bought any). You would take your line out, carefully measure the total length, and than buy a matching prefabricated assembly. You will have to carefully bend it to match the bends in the brake lines you removed, but I do not think that would be difficult if done carefully. You likely can find these pre-fabbed brake lines on-line as well, try Amazon or Ebay perhaps.

they look like this, they come in different lengths, you just have to find metric sizes.

[NWMO]

Well,

Things seem to go reasonably well this evening. I got the easy part of the brake line work done, need to crawl under and double flare the existing brake line next. I'm guessing that may prove to be a PITA. Finished by drilling holes in two bolts that spun off in the keeper nuts (hold the brake lines to the bottom of the car). Soaked them with penetrant also.







Chris

[NWMO]

Also,

After checking a table of Moog springs and trying to find something closer to stock, but also give a little lift, I landed on the cc247. Better known as the Pathfinder springs. Found a set on ebay delivered for $55, went ahead and purchased. For another $10, I could have gotten new, but hope these are broke in a little.

Chris

[splatterdog]

If new lines are going to be made from scratch, use the new Nicopp tubing. Much more rust resistant and flares/bends like butter. http://agscompany.com/product-category/ ... es/nicopp/

My newest/favorite flaring tool is this-http://www.amazon.com/CTA-Tools-9212--L ... aring+tool
It's great in tight places and makes beautiful flares every time. The only time I've had to redo a flare is because I forgot the nut. Doh! I have the bigger kit that also does bubble flare, but I am less impressed with them. I usually used the old style blue point set on those. Don't see as much of those...

This is a sweet flaring tool, but since I do at least half of my flaring on the vehicle after the lines are "roughed in" to position, the inline works best. http://www.amazon.com/Eastwood-Double-S ... 53C5QMG3H1

[splatterdog]

Almost forgot. Here's a sweet close quarters tubing cutter. It's spring loaded, so no stopping to turn the knob while twisting around the line. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cal-Van-Tools-C ... 1736556534

[ARCHINSTL]

If new lines are going to be made from scratch, use the new Nicopp tubing. Much more rust resistant and flares/bends like butter. http://agscompany.com/product-category/ ... es/nicopp/

Wish I'd known about this before I pieced together umpteen parts on my '88 Dodge/Mitsu p'up a couple of years ago! What a PITA that was ! ! ! Many weird curls/circlets I had to make!
Tom M.

[NWMO]

Hey all,

I got the lines put together yesterday and gravity bled, haven't checked my repairs yet. I did find the "brake light" extinguished, so that is encouraging. Hopefully my repairs don't leak. I figure to replace shoes and service the rear springs etc, so the rear will be good to go.

I received the ebay springs yesterday, will be waiting on that part of the work until crucial repairs are made.

I checked timing w/o removing vacuum advance and found it just off the scale. It was still at high idle, but that seems quite advanced. Spec indicates 5 before, most prefer 10 before or so? And based on the manual, vac advance should add approx 8 degrees at idle?

With church, SB and needing to wrench on my DD, won't mess with it today.

Chris

[dlb]

Spec indicates 5 before, most prefer 10 before or so? And based on the manual, vac advance should add approx 8 degrees at idle?

yes, that's all correct.

[lannvouivre]

I'm pretty good at the flares, but have done none of the other stuff.

[Petros]

the ten deg BTDC is at idle of about 800 rpm, with vac advanced off and capped. you can not set or check the timing at high idle, it is meaningless. once you get it set you can check the mechanical advance is working by speeding up the engine to see if the timing advances (vac advance still off and plugged). than install the vac advance and check again, that will tell you if the vac advance is working. If not, leave it capped off, it will act like a vac leak, and it will run fine without the vac advance.

[dlb]

once you get it set you can check the mechanical advance is working by speeding up the engine to see if the timing advances (vac advance still off and plugged).

another method for checking the mechanical advance is to remove the distributor cap and twist the rotor counterclockwise. the tip should turn about 1/4" and then snap back to its original position when you let go.