Auto floods out bad when warming up

[Gottolovem]

My 1987 auto has this "spot" during the warm up cycle each day where it floods it's self out bad.
The car has always been cold blooded but now it's getting out of hand! This last weekend I did a full tune replacing carb and TVSV valve. The parts were taken from a car that runs like butter. After the tune it runs way better but the mid temp flooding problem remains

The newer carb works perfectly all diaphragms check out rebuilt last year and running smoothly on prior car same with TVSV one year old and still shiny.
I know my way around this car and have done all the work on it myself for years I'M STUMPED?
What are the symptoms if the solenoids are reversed?????
What would cause a motor to flood out that is NOT carb or vacuum related????????

Again the car starts up just fine at first but floods itself before its fully up to temp. If i'm able to get the car past the morning warm up cycle it runs fine for the rest of the day.

I should add that this car always run rich with poor mpg this is the third carb i've had on it always the same problem( it's not the carb itself some other component)
Paul
Remember when we left Virginia City and the car kept sputtering and almost died? (that is the symptom)

[irowiki]

EBCV might be bad? Try swapping it! Does it have a HAC?


Temp sensor could be bad too. The auto has three, one for the computer, one for the trans dummy light, and one for the dash guage. I think the green one on the coolant outlet is for the computer.

[Gottolovem]

EBCV might be bad? Try swapping it! Does it have a HAC?

I'm admittedly no guru with the various "systems" on the carburetor. Time to put on the thinking cap and identify just what?how to diagnose the EBCV it's a start at least

[dlb]

i've tried the FSM tests on a few EBCV's and their various components and was never able to get consistent results on any of them. and unfortunately, i don't think the carb works properly with the EBCV disabled, so i don't think there is an easy way to test it.

[Petros]

how about the APP leaking? that is usually the cause of running rich.

I have also seen something in the EBCV system malfunction and cause poor fuel economy on another person's Tercel4d. disabling it, or swapping out all components in the system did not make any difference. It has to be there and it has to be function properly or economy and drivablity suffers.

[Gottolovem]

Ca emissions
No HAC (i live @5,000ft)

[irowiki]

a HAC would help running at that altitude, but wouldn't cause the issue if it is not there!

I'd get another EBCV and see if that helps. There is a filter inside that plugs up. I've heard of people slitting the vacuum lines going from the EBCV to give it a slight leak, and lean out the mixture.

[rer233]

Dan-
Have you tried plugging the AAP yet? Years ago I had a T4 that would stall out/flood ONCE during each warm-up cycle. Turned out the TVSV was dumping the vacuum to the AAP suddenly, causing the over-rich condition. Replacing the TVSV cured the problem. I know you said you swapped-out the TVSV, but plugging the AAP would eliminate some of the guess work (plus it's easy to do.)

Good Luck.

[4wdEconoBox]

My 85 manual, does something similar (I think) when warming up first thing in the morning it idles really choppy and doesn't allow fast idle to work correctly, it never completely stalls out or dies though. If I press on the gas pedal and hold the rpms to 2000-2500 rpms or so for roughly 30 seconds, it'll start idling right and is really smooth from then on out. Also if I tap the gas in order to stop fast idle it just revs high and goes back to fast idle, it takes a few fast taps in order to disable fast idle. Any ideas?

[dlb]

check the diaphragms on the choke breaker, confirm the choke is closed when cold and opens as the engine warms up. test all the other cold start devices, like the AAP.

[4wdEconoBox]

Alright, will do whenever it stops raining, I've checked most of all of that not too long ago, and everything checked out good, except the vacuum advance, which has been capped off for a while. AAP hose smells a little like gas but holds vacuum and doesn't make a difference if its capped off or not. The gas level as seen through the sight glass on the carb sits perfectly in the middle. I've checked all of my vacuum lines over and over again! The only spot that changed idle speed when sprayed with carb cleaner was around the throttle shaft, I suspect its a little worn out, also under and around the throttle shaft and base of the carb you can tell that the throttle shaft is leaking, but its minimal. Also I recently(a day or 2 ago) re-tightened all of my intake/exhaust manifold bolts and carb mounting nuts. Something else I might mention is that when the car has warmed up it takes longer to start back up and is a bit aggravating, but once it "hits" it runs fine.

[Gottolovem]

Dan-
Have you tried plugging the AAP yet? Years ago I had a T4 that would stall out/flood ONCE during each warm-up cycle. Turned out the TVSV was dumping the vacuum to the AAP suddenly, causing the over-rich condition. Replacing the TVSV cured the problem. I know you said you swapped-out the TVSV, but plugging the AAP would eliminate some of the guess work (plus it's easy to do.)

Good Luck.

Plugged the AAP after work today and it warmed without incident. However it was already about 50 degrees outside so I'm not sure it was an accurate cold to hot test. Going to try it again in the morning when it's 20 degrees.
Going this weekend to grab a EBCV thingy

[rer233]

Let us know how it works out (think you've got it nailed.)

[Mark]

How do you know it's flooding? Flooding to me means there is so much fuel going into the engine that the mix is too rich to burn. If after the engine sputters to a stop you pull out a spark plug or two and it's wet and smells like gasoline, then that would be flooding to me. I'm guessing if too much fuel was going through the carb, the engine would flood and die at all temperatures. Your symptoms sound more like a vacuum leak (fuel/air mix too lean). Hopefully your pulling/plugging the hose from the aap solved the problem. I don't think I've ever had a tercel that didn't have a vacuum leak in the aap diaphragm. The aap only functions when the engine is cold so the vacuum leak would go away when the coolant warms up. In Tercels I've had, the TVSV switches the aap off when the coolant temp is around 2/5 on the temp gauge. Before I removed/plugged the aap hoses on mine, there would be an obvious improvement in the idle smoothness when the temp passed this point.

[Gottolovem]

Got up this morning and started the car @ 30 degrees it stumbled and died twice but restarted without to much trouble.
It came up to temp and drove it to work it ran just fine . If this was my problem it raises more questions than answers for me.

Two separate TVSV's (one nearly new)same symptom?????
AAP diaphragm in fine working order????