Click from front end

[Notmikeb]

So after I drained and refilled my front differential, I've had an audible click when braking that happens again when I first accelerate from a stop. This was not there before I drained and refilled the gear oil. The differential was leaking from the axle seals previous to doing this and was almost empty when I drained it. The fluid that was in there was much thicker and sludgier than the gear oil that replaced it. My worry is that the gears were being held together (or at least muffled) by the gunk and now that I have replaced it with a comparatively lighter fluid it now has play.

I should also note that I replaced the passenger side cv axle at the same time as doing the seals but not the drivers side. It very well could be the drivers side axle making the noise but it wasn't doing it before the diff fluid swap. Also, the noise started after the fluid was changed but BEFORE the new axle and seals were installed. New axle has not changed the noise.

Any easy checks I can do for the front differential? Should I just hope for the best and pull the front cover to check clearances. Any other ideas?

[Petros]

often remanufactured cv axles click right out of the box. that is why I only buy new ones, not remans.

not likely changing the oil caused the click. besides, if sludge was really muffling, what is your option? fill it up with sludge? either it was already a bad diff, or it is something else. Since cv axles are notorious for clicking, and you changed one, I would guess it is the cv axle. there are a few other things that can click too, unrelated to the diff.

describe the click in more detail:, speed of it, does it change with speed, turning left or right, all the time it is moving, etc.? Might help us narrow it down.

[Notmikeb]

It only happens on braking while decelerating below 10 mph and again when I accelerate after that. It is not continuous but once each time. It started up right after I changed the fluid BEFORE I changed the axle so I don't believe it is the axle. It may be totally unrelated to the differential and is just coincidence.

It sounds almost as if the brake rotor is knocking fore and aft and hitting the studs each time. It is definitely a metal on metal click. I'm not saying it's the brake but that is what the noise is like in both sound and circumstance. Does that make sense or am I not describing it clearly?

I was thinking it could be the drivers side axle as that would make sense but it would seem like that would make itself apparent every time it either came under load or came off load not just at low speeds.

It may be the brakes. I checked and everything seemed tight when I put the front end back together after doing the axle seals but it could be the pads knocking back and forth in the caliper on one side.

I may have to do something slightly dangerous and sit on my hood while my wife drives up and down the driveway (slowly!!!) so I can hear where it's coming from. Seems like it is on the drivers side but I could be wrong.

Another thought I just had was I also unplugged and removed the charcoal canister solenoid (purge valve?) at the same time I did the fluids. I'm going to feel really stupid if it is as simple as that wire harness connector swinging back and forth hitting the body.

[Notmikeb]

Forgot to mention, I did NOT touch the brakes when I did the axles. Disconnected the tie rods and ball joints and pried down on the control arm to free up the axle. Brakes were not affected by the work I did and the sound preceded the front end work anyway.

[xirdneh]

double check the two ball joint bolts for tightness

[Gottolovem]

double check the two ball joint bolts for tightness

Ditto check all the stuff you messed with.
You may have bent the brake rotor "shield"
I'll bet its in the wheel area

[Notmikeb]

I'm going to tighten down everything again just to make sure. Could I have messed up a strut mount? They were dangling and being jostled off to weird angles when wrestling with the cv axles.

[dlb]

i think your diff is fine. i would check the ball joints, tie rods, strut mounts, and CVs for play. since you just put the CV in and then the sound started, that's where my money is.

to check the CV, remove the steering knuckle so the outboard end of the CV is free. firmly grip both ends and try twisting them in opposite directions. there should be zero play.

i had this same problem (i call it 'shift clunk') on the last tercel i owned. i found a CV had the play i just described so i bought a remanufactured joint. i checked it before i installed it and it had even more play than the old one i had just removed but i decided to test it out anyway. well it made the shift clunk way worse. i ordered brand new GSP axles from rock auto, they had zero play in them, installed them and returned the remanufactured one, and the shift clunk was gone.

i've also found shift clunk to be caused by tie rods, ball joints, and strut mounts though so check everything.

[Notmikeb]

It was the other cv axle. Changed it out and problem solved. Either that or something I had to take apart to get the axle out but no matter. It's changed and no more noise. I'm getting good at these axles. This one was out, replaced and the car was back together with wheels on the ground in a grand total of 20 minutes! NASCAR pit crew style!

[Ridlbox]

Got me laughing about that pit crew I'm getting pretty good at those two

[Petros]

I have seen a NASCAR up close...these are no NASCARs.

I can typically change a front CV axle, from state to finish, in about 40 min using hand tools and a jack, without hurrying. I have had them out in much less time than that when I find good ones in the wrecking yard.

local repair shops, with their lifts and pneumatic tools, charge $250 per side to replace them. A rip off, one reason I do my own work. I also do not get the lecture from them that I also need brakes, belts, etc. (when I know I do not) when they have my car apart on the lift and try and up sell me. crooks.

[Notmikeb]

I think it was much faster due to the fact the all those parts had been apart a week prior. The first time took a lot longer as the tie rod ends and axle nuts needed a lot more "aggressive persuasion" after many years of being together.

[Petros]

soak those parts in ATF the day before you will be pulling it apart and they typically come right off. but I do have the extra heavy duty tools for those really stuck parts too, I seldom need them on a Tercel, particularly if you soak everything with penetrating oil the day before (ATF is the best penetrating oil ever).

[lannvouivre]

Speaking of CV's...is it normal for the inboard ends to have play sliding in and out of the differential about a centimeter? (say "yes" please LOL)

[Notmikeb]

Side to side play from the shaft into the splined end or from the splined end into the differential? Shaft, yes. Differential, big no. There's supposed to be a circular clip that should be engaging on the differential and it should be solid. Those gears aren't supposed to move side to side at all so if the axle is doing that it is either not engaging (or missing) the clip or something is very wrong inside your differential.

Btw, if you're missing the clip let me know. I saved them off my old axles and will happily send them along to you.