Engine Rebuild Questions!

[4wdEconoBox]

It felt good and solid when I had everything apart, I don't remember it making any noise but I could be wrong, it's got less than 10,000 miles on it. I replaced it when I replaced all the seals pretty much right before the rebuild, haha, so idk what it is... :/

[marlinh]

Did you spin it in your hand when it was apart?

[4wdEconoBox]

Yeah, just to see if it spun easily and smoothly, ya know, and like I said, I don't recall it making any noise but I can't promise that, once I get this carb straightened out I'll take all that apart again and check it out!

[4wdEconoBox]

I just got the carb fixed. I put the wrong o-ring/gasket on the primary venturi...haha. She's not spitting anymore, I've just got to play around with adjustments now...And it started rained as I was trying to adjust the carb so I didn't get to finished it up and also won't be able to check out any of the timing parts... Hopefully I'll be able to sometime this week, even though, the noise seems to be getting quieter, so maybe the timing belt just had to stretch some, thats the only thing I can think of...

[4wdEconoBox]

Another interesting thing about the cooling issue, my fan stays on constantly, and the sensor/fan switch is unplugged. I'm guessing that switch is bad. Could that cause it to run a little hot? Do these fans have a hi/low speed?

[dlb]

why is the fan switch unplugged? it is normal for the fan to stay on when it is unplugged from the switch.

i'm sure there is some sort of ohms resistance test for the fan switch but i have always let the engine idle until the temp came up to almost 3/4 on the gauge, at which time the fan should come on and cool it back down to 1/2 way on the gauge. if the fan doesn't come on, the switch is bad. not a great test but i've also never had a bad fan switch force me to come up with a smarter test.

[4wdEconoBox]

Idk, I guess the previous owner unplugged it, because I just noticed it was unplugged and I know I didn't do it haha. And of course after some quick searching I found that it was a quick "fix" for a bad fan switch. Is it going to hurt anything by leaving it unplugged? As long as the fan isn't a dual speed fan I'm not going to worry about it, since it isn't going to hurt anything by running all the time. Its looking more like I need a radiator or a thermostat. Which I'm picking up a 180 degree Failsafe tomorrow, I wish it was a 170 but it isn't in stock and the 180 is... I may also bypass the heater core before I leave tomorrow just to see if that helps anything.

If none of that helps, what other radiators fit in this car? Tercels never, and I mean never show up at my local Pull-a-part...So its almost impossible to find used parts around here haha.

[irowiki]

Used radiators probably would not be any good anyway. A new one can be had for $80-100 shipped.
Plug the fan switch back in, wait for the temp to get to the middle while idling and see if it kicks the fan on.

[4wdEconoBox]

I actually hadn't even thought about a new one, their usually too expensive for my blood...haha, but I just checked rockauto and for $68 shipped I can get one, a 2 row at that! I'll replace the thermostat tomorrow first and if it doesn't work I'll order it Wednesday... I'm praying and hoping that the thermostat will fix it though, but I doubt it'll be that easy! We'll see how everything goes though!!!

Edit: I may also try unclogging my radiator with vinegar or CLR...it can't hurt anything, especially since I plan on buying a new radiator anyway, haha.

[Petros]

if the thrermo switch is not working you can run without it if you are never in heavy traffic. when you are moving more than about 30 mph, there is no more cooling you will get out of the radiator. the fan only comes on when you are stopped iding for very long, or in slow moving heavy traffic.

It is risky, but you can use your heater fan as a back up, just keep an eye on that temp gauge. if you see it start to go up because of heavy traffic or waiting at a rail road crossing, or something similar, turn the heater fan on high with the temp all the way up, you will see the temp drop.

I have done this while when on the road, until I could stop and fix it. but it is risky, if you over heat you might be doing a head gasket job.

[4wdEconoBox]

Well remember how I said I fixed the oil leak.... Now it's back with a vengeance.... I can't tell if its the oil pan, or the front main seal, or a combination of both.... It's wet all the way around the oil pan gasket in the front and it'd also wet right above the oil pan behind the crank pulley, like on the oil pump which is why I think it could be the main seal....I really don't want to have to pull the engine again to put a new oil pan gasket on, but it looks like that's what I'll have to do, I'll also check the seal and replace it if it looks bad, luckily I have spares of both....

[4wdEconoBox]

Orrr, if theres an easier way to fix a leaking oil pan gasket I'm game! Its definitely whats leaking, I was able to catch it in action!

[irowiki]

The leak can still run down from somewhere else and run down the oil pan and then drip so you might want to clean up the entire engine with degreaser and see if you see oil anywhere else

[BaileySims]

Did you put the oil pan on with the motor still in the car? I had to do my oil pan gasket three times because I was trying to wedge it in place with everything in the way. I ended up breaking the gasket while doing that. Twice. Haha. The second time it was leaking I thought it was the rear main seal too.

[4wdEconoBox]

Everything is still pretty clean from the rebuild! Lucky there I guess, but sadly it's very visible that it's the oil pan gasket

And nuh uh, I put it on when I rebuilt it, but apparently didn't install it right, I think I put the bolts on too tight and damaged the gasket....

Sooo here we are now haha, is there a quicker/easier way to pull the pan than by pulling the engine, or would pulling the engine be the best way?