Gauge instalations!

[drege]

Where particularly/how can/should a oil pressure gauge be installed?
I have an old oil pressure gauge kickin around from one of my bosses old busses, its got a black 1/4 inch tube on the back with brass elbow, I imagine I'd run a tube to the motor block somewhere, but where? Do I have to drill and thread a hole in the block somewhere or something crazy like that, or is there a port or hose that I can T off in the engine bay, I detest dummy lights!

And how about a tach? (wife's 87 FX with the 4A-FE - doesn't have a tach) -- Also have an old Datcon tach, it was from a 1960's 4cylinder diesel pusher, probably aftermarket though. I think I tried it once and it didn't quite register the way I thought it ought to, but I'm ready to give it another chance.

This is the instruction sheet for the tach http://gilmore-global.com/howto_guides/ ... ctions.pdf, Witch system do we have in our 4A engines so I can cross reference the model number when I get home and see if it will work (provided I can calibrate it)

Any good pillar mount 2" housings on ebay or amazon anyone else has tried and liked?

[dlb]

someone just posted a pic of their terc with a 3-gauge pillar mount. looked good. can't remember who posted it or where that thread was though.

[drege]

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=10128&p=82670&hilit ... uge#p82670

I like the vacuum gauge idea, but I don't think I actually want to do a pillar mount, too much wire+pipe to fish through to that location, hell I ought to do a hood mount, the dash is sold real estate for a future inclinometer.

[drege]

Maybe this thread shouldn't really go in T4WD repair, I'm getting a little out of hand . . .


EDIT: Never mind, these are diesel only.

[dlb]

i'm a fan of vacuum gauges. i've put one in two of my vehicles and improved mileage in both by at least 10%. now that i'm accustomed to driving with vacuum in mind, i no longer need the gauge but it is also a good diagnostic tool for engine issues.

[drege]

Exactly, and I'm a motochondriac I wanna know what it happening all the time everywhere.

[Petros]

There are not a lot of good places to mount auxilarly gauges since most of the dash is full of useful factory accessories. I mounted an oil pressure gauge on the lower panel below the steering column on the right side, the only nuisance is a have to move my head to the side to see it when in the driver's seat. but it is out of the way and only mounted on a plastic panel that is easy to remove/access with nothing in the way behind it. It is a mechanical gauge that uses the oil tube, I removed the oil pressure sender (the wire grounds and made the oil light flicker on, so I put in the gauge for peace of mind, but the light still flickers on and off every so often, even completely unplugged!).

If you want to keep both idiot light and gauge (a good idea) you will have to get some adapters and a "T" or "Y" fitting to install in the side of the block, screw the pressure sender into one, and the oil pressure gauge probe into the other.

This may be tricky since the oil pressure tap is on the side of the block behind the alternator, it may be a tight fit. There should be room but it may take some experimenting with various elbows and adapters to get it to fit.

I would not be drilling into the oil galleys on the block to install a gauge, that would be a really bad idea. Use the existing sender locations. It uses an odd ball British tread size, but you can find an adapter for that size in a good auto parts store with lots of brass fittings in inventory. You may want to go with a generic oil pressure sender with standard pipe thread so you do not have to worry about cross threading the brass fitting with the toyota sender.

since my idiot light system internally grounds out I left off the oil light sender, and just have the gauge. Gut I worry that if I have sudden oil pressure loss I would not notice the gauge until I hear "bad noises" coming from the engine (too late). So having the gauge and a light would be a very good idea.

good luck.

[drege]

Dang, that sounds like a PITA, So lemme get this straight, the oil pressure sender is grounded through the sensor; and it DOES NOT ground any longer with the T or Y adapter?
Or it doe's not ground and with a junction it does causing light fault.
If it NO LONGER GROUNDS, could a jumper be fabricated like sweating copper to brass?
I was thinking about some locations, I was thinking either two double pods on either side of the cluster hood but it seems like most dual pods have bases over 6", and the surface calls for less than 4 3/4", just now I thought maybe a door panel mount like this but with a passenger side A-pillar kit, along the top of the drivers side door panel just above the window crank, run the leads and feeds through the door like some cars do with courtesy lights and speaker wires, I'd like to keep the dummy lights, have them normally functional and have the gauges in clear sight.
Another thought I had was two on either side of the shifter/console, with the rear foot board heat ducting being the only real occupation in that location I could probably fab a box shaped pod housing to affix to the plastic console.

[Petros]

Perhaps I was not clear, my idiot light malfunctions, it appears to have an internal intermittent ground somewhere under the dash because even unplugged it flickers on and off sometimes. so I did not bother with the t or y adapter.

If your idiot light system works properly than installing an adapter to allow both a light and a gauge is a very good idea. It should ground fine though the adapter if it is made of metal.

[drege]

Oh, ok, thanks for clarifying that, I had no idea your grounding was isolated to your car.

[xirdneh]

the brake vacuum fitting on the intake manifold has the same thread as the oil sender
i used an extra one by cutting the threaded end off and soldering it to a brass "T" fitting
on it i hooked up the original sender (thread was close enough to work in brass fitting) and a new oil gage to the dashboard
i mounted it next to the radio on passenger side
it was a temporary set up so i could test an engine that i re-ringed

[Sparkey]

When I hooked up my oil pressure gauge I found this company they have an adapter to go from the British 28 pipe thread and keep your to a standard thread. Its a T so you can use your existing pressure switch.
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/produ ... ecID=11217
I ending up using an oil plate sandwich adapter couple bucks cheaper and I worried the T would be to long and the pressure switch may rub on the motor mount.

[Petros]

that is an excellent set-up, but that adapter cost almost as much as the gauge.

You should switch to a WIX oil filter. dump the frams, they have serious quality control problems.

[drege]

Just spend a half hour looking between the transverse 4A-FE in the FX and the 3A-c in the Terc I can't even remove the terminal connector from the OPS, and my largest wrench is 1-1/32 and thats too small for the sensor in either car, I could get an adjustable wrench on it if I pull the alternator/AC compressor bracket - too much of a pain in the ass.
I think that oil filter spacer might just be the way to go!
Hey sparky whats the link to the one you got?

[Sparkey]

Drege, I Bought it off of E-bay the price has gone up a dollar but 14.25 isn't to bad of a price.
Petros I knew someone was going to say something about the filter and I Agree Wix is a better filter. But the filter came free with the purchase of the oil.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BL-Oil-Filter-B ... ee&vxp=mtr