Hi all,
Scuffles (1981) is about to be the proud host of a rebuilt 3AC. I've seen a lot of a varying info about how to drive to break-in a rebuilt engine (vary the revs, etc.), but I'm having trouble finding a good list of things I should do before I even try to start the car. I've been told I should drench the cam in oil--should I add extra assembly lube too? Do I need to prime the carb? And how should I prime the oil system? Petros seemed to have some good advice on another thread:
I will often allow the engine to crank with the distributor plug disconnected until the oil light goes off (or in my case the oil pressure gauge come off zero). This will also prevent you from starting it accidentally before you refill the crank case, which is easy to forget to do when you are installing a rebuilt engine since there is so much stuff to connect, bolt on, etc. and typically you are anxious to see it run. DO NOT FORGET the ENGINE OIL! And coolant in the rad too! When you crank it over without it starting, it will fill the new oil filter, the oil galleys and put oil in all of the bearings and moving parts. than connect the distributor plug and let it rip! Set the spark timing first thing.
But I've also heard that it's good to avoid excess cranking. Let me know if you have any advice, I don't want to mess anything up now!
Toyota starter motors are very durable, cranking it for 30 seconds and than letting it cool down for 60 seconds, will not harm them. Detroit machinery starters are crap, and will not hold up. than your only option is to find some way to rapidly turn over the engine or to rotate the oil pump to get oil inside the moving parts of the engine. besides, stater motors are easy to replace, replacing rings and bearings because it was started "dry" is far more trouble to fix than replacing a starter.
Petros wrote:Toyota starter motors are very durable, cranking it for 30 seconds and than letting it cool down for 60 seconds, will not harm them. Detroit machinery starters are crap, and will not hold up. than your only option is to find some way to rapidly turn over the engine or to rotate the oil pump to get oil inside the moving parts of the engine. besides, stater motors are easy to replace, replacing rings and bearings because it was started "dry" is far more trouble to fix than replacing a starter.
Awesome, that's exactly what I wanted to hear. Any special tips for the cam, Petros?
irowiki wrote:Close enough that perhaps when I get her CV axles and oil seals fixed, perhaps we should meet up sometime for a photo shoot!
Mark wrote:You can photoshop my '81 sedan in there too.
I put molly grease on the lifters and cam lobes, I have had a small can of Isky Rev-lube for 25 years just of this application. when I did not have it I used moly grease, and motor oil.
