WEBER TIME!!!!!...TURTCEL

[TURTCEL]

So I finally ordered my WEBER carb conversion kit and all the other accessories to go along with it. It will be here tomorrow and hopefully should be on and running this weekend.

Along with the K740 carb kit I also ordered the short air cleaner and assembly as well as the Holley fuel pressure regulator (12-804). I went as far as also purchasing an inline fuel pressure gauge (1 1/2" dia) that I would like to mount right off of the regulator and only have one barbed end for the fuel hose after that.

I have seen many postings for this swap but for the life of me I can't seem to find a posting I saw (I believe Tom listed the link) that shows a member that installed the same regulator with a gauge right off it as well. I would really like to find that posting again if anyone else might have luck finding it and sending it my way.

I was also looking for the posting that explained how to adapt our stock throttle cable arm to the WEBER so I won't have to cut the end off of my throttle cable which is necessary to use the WEBER set up.

Anything else that anyone here could suggest I do while doing the swap? I can remove every piece of emissions and vacuum componentry right? Except the vacuum advance for the dizzy, which I believe I only need to use one port on it with the WEBER. I saw a posting for that as well...I will keep looking for that posting too.

I use the search box and type in WEBER with related words that correspond to what I am looking for but I can never seem to get a more narrowed down search. I have tried the advance search once...maybe twice would help....hahaha.

Thanks for any helpful tips folks.

Peace

[irowiki]

You want to keep the vapor canister iirc.

[TURTCEL]

Found some postings of the WEBER topics I was asking about in initial posting...advance search worked on the second attempt for me.

I saw that Tom mentions eliminating the charcoal canister and just running the vapor hose out of a frame rail hose so you can't smell the vapors. Where would it hook to on the WEBER?

Peace

[dlb]

i actually recently added info about what vacuum stuff to attach to the weber (or at least the way i found mine ran the best) to the FAQ. check #13.

https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=7442

i'm thinking now i should edit that particular FAQ to include keeping the HAC since we recently talked about how to keep it with the weber.

i think it was tom that made the detailed post on how to install the fuel pressure gauge into the regulator. search his posts for it and that should narrow it down.

[irowiki]

Oh maybe that is what I was thinking!

[teranfirbt]

I don't know why everyone runs fuel pressure regs on their Weber's, I never ran one with mine and it never had an issue with flooding the float bowl, including a brand new fuel pump....

[BrownBadger]

I think the problem is that the pressure will eventually cause some of the seals to fail and start to weep.

[TURTCEL]

I don't know why everyone runs fuel pressure regs on their Weber's, I never ran one with mine and it never had an issue with flooding the float bowl, including a brand new fuel pump....

I have heard that the WEBER doesn't like the extra pressure and cause leaks...for the $20 extra bucks for a gauge and about $40 for reg and bracket it was worth it to me.

Peace

[ARCHINSTL]

Bellcrank & regulator and pressure gauge pix: https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php? ... an+#p33319
See also ripstock's bellcrank: https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php? ... ank#p64995
I went with the gauge because the combination of the Weber and the OE pump's pressure did not get along - besides, how do you know where to calibrate the regulator?
I have disconnected and removed ALL emission stuff, including the vapor canister as you mentioned: https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php? ... ter#p72699 The vapor tube that formerly went to the canister is NOT connected to the Weber; it is the one that runs from the fuel tank itself - see the photo.
Missouri no longer has emission inspection for - ahem - mature vehicles (those before '96).
I mounted the regulator and gauge on the strut tower where the HAC and other stuff resided - also moved the Weber inlet hose to the outside inlet port - less convoluted path for the hose.
Tom M.

[TURTCEL]

Thanks for all the replies and previous posts with great pics...really helps members when doing projects like these.

I am very excited to get this project finished and see how TURTCEL likes her new heart. I will keep everyone posted on the progress.

Peace

[TURTCEL]

Should I do any pre-start carb adjustments or checks before installation based off of anyone's personal experiences? I am also curious how long the swap will basically take me to complete...I am mechanically inclined so I am not going into this blindly? Just hoping I could do it in one day on a weekend without stressing to get it done. My free time is very limited unfortunately.

On good note to my stock carb situation...I have been getting around 24 mpg mixed hwy/town, where I was only getting 20 mpg. Warmer weather I am guessing has helped...less choke.

Peace

[dlb]

swapping on the weber is a pretty quick affair. if you're installing the FPR and gauge as well, it might take slightly longer but still not much. an hour or two at best, a day at worst (if you have to fight any frozen bolts, find things don't quite line up and require "massaging", etc). i don't think any adjustments or checks are necessary prior to installation. just follow the instructions for setting the idle mixture, fast idle, etc and that should be it.

if you are going to remove the EGR, i would soak the big weird nut and bolt at the ends of the metal tube in ATF or some othe rpenetrant a few times. they can be really, really rusted in there. you'll also need a big bolt to plug the hole in the exhaust manifold.

[TURTCEL]

I removed and plugged off my EGR system about a year ago...nice not to have that big tube and modulator in the way anymore.

I have been looking into keeping the HAC system integrated in the system by drilling and tapping a threaded port into the adapter block but that will be after I get the swap done. My concern is that the EBCV might be necessary to activate the HAC by making vacuum to expand or contract the HAC diaphragm at different altitudes. The schematics of the HAC system seem to show the EBCV to be separate but since it tee's off of the HAC I have a suspicion that it would be needed. Does anyone know if they are separate for sure? Also I figure I would only be using one air inlet for the HAC system located below the throttle plate and no the one that feeds the fuel ports at the top. System might not be perfect but I would imagine it would help to appoint while driving at higher altitudes.

Peace

[dlb]

i just looked at the FSM more closely and the HAC and EBCV operate independently of each other.

the big problem i would have with making the HAC work with the weber is determing exactly where to drill for the main and slow air bleed ports. i personally wouldn't risk damaging the carb. i think the best idea would be to get familiar with the weber and establish a baseline fuel economy with it (taking note of factors like weather and % of city driving) over at least 5 or 6 tanks of gas. then when you take the car to higher elevations, compare that mileage with your baseline and see how much difference there is. if it's substantial and you do those trips frequently, then you might want to further consider bring the HAC back, but there's a good chance the economy will be the same, in which case you could avoid the extra work and danger of damaging an expensive brand new carb.

those are my thoughts on it, anyway.

[irowiki]

The HAC and EBCV are definitely seperate. The first gen could have a HAC, but did not have the EBCV.

They just so happen to supply air to the same places.