bad bearing noise when moving

[dlb]

don't wreck the drum or backing plate trying to get the drum off. do what gottolovem just mentioned and put two small flat blade screwdrivers in the adjuster window. it's at the top of the backing plate, just below where the wheel cylinder mounts. there is a spring-loaded arm that holds the adjuster in place so you need to use one screwdriver to push that arm while you use the second screwdriver to turn the adjuster wheel. you have to do this all by feel so it's a real PITA but once you've done it a few times, it's no big deal. i can never remember which way to turn the adjuster to slacken the brakes so i usually just keep adjusting in one direction until either the drum spins freely or locks up. if it locks up, i went the wrong way so i just go the other way until it's free.

depending on how worn the drums are, they may spin ok but might not slide off the axle. the problem is a lip in the drum is catching on the brake shoe. don't beat on it though, just keep slackening the adjuster until the drums slides off by hand.

if you're having trouble visualizing what you're supposed to be doing, look at page 595 (aka BR-36) of the FSM. you can download it here if you haven't already.

https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=8103

[larry mcgrath]

on the brake drum there are 2 threaded holes -about 10mm- they are between the wheel studs,thread in 2 bolts ,this will put pressure between the brake drum and the axel and pop the drum free of the axel. you dont need a puller, these 2 holes are some times full of mud ect,all of these cars have these holes to assist in pulling the rear drums,the front brake rotors are also drilled and tapped .good luck larry.

[rer233]

Actually the threads are 8x1.25 mm but if there's a real bad rust ridge on the drums they'll prolly strip out.

Good luck!

[xirdneh]

after installing those two screws in the drum
tighten them up
then smack the sides of the drum with a brass or copper mallet
tighten some more and repeat
this works pretty good and usually eliminates the need for backing off the adjustment screw which can be a pain in the &*@#

[dlb]

that's a really good point about the threaded holes in both the drums and rotors. i find the threaded holes are really useful when drums/rotors are badly rusted onto the hub. i still like to slacken the adjuster though because i have damaged some of the shoe springs and hold down clips by forcing the drums off without bothering with the adjuster.

[c_j]

that's a really good point about the threaded holes in both the drums and rotors. i find the threaded holes are really useful when drums/rotors are badly rusted onto the hub. i still like to slacken the adjuster though because i have damaged some of the shoe springs and hold down clips by forcing the drums off without bothering with the adjuster.

Yes, I have also damaged brake parts many times by just cranking on those 2 bolts without bothering to slack off the adjuster or being successful with xirdneh's hammer method. You may end up peeling the brake shoes off the backing plate, stripping the hold-down pins out of the clips and bending other things including the brake shoes.

[Petros]

you should not need a puller to get the drum off, just use the two bolts in the holes, you can also put some penetrating oil around the hub if it is rusty there, but the two bolts will force it off with tapping on the drum to get the shoes to pull free.

sounds like a wheel bearing, it can put a loud grinding noise throught the whole car any time the wheels are rolling, usually you can tell it is comping from the back of the car, but it will echo thought the whole car if bad enough. once you get the drum off, if you rotate the axle you should be able to tell: if it grind by just turning the axle (put some sideways pressure on it by hand), than it is almost certainly the wheel bearing. You have to remove the axle by remove the (4) 12mm nuts holding on the backing plate. usualy if you just beat outward on the axle flange, wiggle it around it will slide out. If it is really stuck from rust than you might need a puller from that, but you can usually jury rig something (there is a thread on this topic, pulling the rear axle). I have only need to use a home made slide hammer once or twice for the 10 or 12 times I have replace axle bearings.

The wheel bearing is a fairly straight forward replacement, and not too costly. Perhaps about $100-120 if you take the axle to a machine shop to have them press off the old one and install the new one. the local NAPA store did mine once (not all NAPA stores have machine shops, but many do).

when you remove the axle be careful to protect the seal that is inside the axle housing, if you can slide out the axle without allowing to damage the seal usually you can reuse it. If there is axle gear oil leaking out all over, you need to replace the seal anyway, there are threads on this topic also. usually the seal is okay if the bearing did not get all loose and sloppy, but if the bearing is so chewed up that the axle will wiggle around, likely it whipped out the seal.

good luck.

[shambug]

got the drum off. it was a bad bearing. just got a new one on will test drive it today and see how it goes. but as far a i understand the bearing could have gone bad because of the differential. i havnt seen if it still makes noise as i have to get up to speed about 35 to hear it. added gear oil to real differental and it took a whole 32oz but didnt look dry inside. headed down to irowiki who contacted me to see whats going on where spare parts are availble

[Gottolovem]

When the oil is low the bearings at the wheels go first.
If there was any oil in it the diff may be ok.
Good to hear your sticking with it.
You will know if it's ok or not by the time you get to Irowiki's
Good luck

[Petros]

bearings could have gone bad because of the differential? never heard that one before, just how is that supposed to happen? No such thing, could be "shade tree" machanic folklore.

But it is true they are the same age and one might not be too far from wearing out after the other, but no relationship at all. I have found that for some reason the left side front and rear wheel bearings get about 2 times the miles as the right side. No reason for it at all, except perhaps where people use the wheels to tell them where the curb is located, it might put some slight sideways damage on the right wheel bearings that cause them to give up first. but I live in rural area, no curbs at all, and park in a parking lot at my office, also without curbs (not even the one in front). but the right side bearings still seem to give up faster than the rear.

the oil level in the diff/axl has nothing to do with the wheel bearings. the wheel bearings are sealed bearings and outside the axle seal, totally unrelated to oil in the diff.

[Gottolovem]

That's right sealed bearing my bad.
I hate ot when i give bad advice

[c_j]

... I have found that for some reason the left side front and rear wheel bearings get about 2 times the miles as the right side. No reason for it at all, except perhaps where people use the wheels to tell them where the curb is located, it might put some slight sideways damage on the right wheel bearings that cause them to give up first. but I live in rural area, no curbs at all, and park in a parking lot at my office, also without curbs (not even the one in front). but the right side bearings still seem to give up faster than the rear. ...

Could it be that the roads are worse at the edges than they are in the center? During my daily travels, there's one road that beats the living crap out of the right hand side of the car, while the left side gets a smooth ride. So, if I kept track, I would assume that I would see far less mileage on my right side suspension/bearings/steering parts as well.

[Mark]

The only bearing I've had that's gone bad was a couple of weeks after I drove through a deep puddle (above the axles). When I removed it there was moisture and rust in it. The seals aren't designed to hold back pressure (like when they're submerged in water). -Same with the differential/trans seals. When I see off-roader's driving through deep puddles I wonder if they repack their bearings with grease and change their diff oil every few weeks.

[irowiki]

He says the wagon is mostly fine now after replacing the bearing. But it is humming in 4wd now while trying it on ice and snow. Ideas?