Horizontal play in front wheels

dug320 · Post by **dug320** » Sun Apr 24, 2005 2:00 am

Better weather and lots of time means more time to fix problems.

How much horizontal play should there be in the front wheels?

When I put the front end up I can move each wheel horizontally.
That means rocking it side to side results in some motion. Both wheels move about the same.

I can't seem to find anything to explain why and if this needs to be addressed.

takza · Post by **takza** » Sun Apr 24, 2005 3:52 am

Not sure what you mean by horizontal? Hub shouldn't move on the spline...tighten axle nut.

Main places are the (4) tie-rod ends.... Rack gears can be loose.

Put the car on stands...get under there and look/listen for slop...???

dug320 · Post by **dug320** » Sun Apr 24, 2005 10:43 pm

I think I have to get the language right. The front wheels are up on stands.

If I grab one of the tires, either one they move the same, and I work the tire sideways plane the tire "jiggles"

I guess it could be a steering issue. But the car does not have a pull and the tire wear is even.

takza · Post by **takza** » Mon Apr 25, 2005 3:25 am

Generally...with that test the ball joints won't show up...so it will be one or more of the 4 tierod ends or the gear lash in the rack...maybe the rack bushing on the right end?

It only takes 1/32" looseness in a tirerod end to make for some sloppy steering. If you look real close you can see the slop or hear a noise.

My wagon has no slop at all except for about .003" in the right end rack bushing. In warm weather the it will knock and click if driving say across a lawn slowly. One of my repair jobs this spring.

You also need to watch the steering wheel...could be turning it some when you test.

Had an Escort where the hub spline had a lot of slop in it...tightening the nut did no good. This would show up both vertically and the other way.

takza · Post by **takza** » Wed Apr 27, 2005 10:46 am

Got a look at the old inner tierod ends I replaced.

They are plastic on steel so they will make no noise.

You can't see any looseness without taking the inner boot clamp loose and looking at the joint while moving the tie rod.

If you replace the pass side inner joint...you'll want to check the bushing that holds the rack on that end...they get lose and cause slop and a noise. (Not talking about the rubber bushings on the outside of the rack).

dug320 · Post by **dug320** » Mon May 09, 2005 2:55 pm

What should I do?

I pulled the front wheels off and disconnected the tie rods from the hub. The play is coming from the steering rack. If I pull on the tie rod; right side 1/8 - 1/16 left side 1/8-1/32 movement.

I can't seem to find anything on repairing the rack just replacing.

Replacing is fine with me. But is it worth getting one from the wreckers or buying a reconditioned unit? Wreckers want 150, Lordco wants 280.

Suggestions?

dug320 · Post by **dug320** » Mon May 09, 2005 6:39 pm

I am confused by two statements in the ebay ad

rack and pinion and then it says for power steering cars

takza · Post by **takza** » Tue May 10, 2005 7:46 am

The play you see is probably the inner tierod ends...won't help much if a new rack doesn't have these.....fairly easy to replace while on the car...just be sure you keep the rack IN on the side you are working on so you don't bend it...snug them and bend over the claw washer.

Might check the pass side rack bushing for play (not the rubber outside).

dug320 · Post by **dug320** » Wed May 11, 2005 5:19 pm

I bought it and we will see what I get.

The rack is original from 85 with 278,000km. I don't think I have much to complain about given the abuse the car gets.

washfishman · Post by **washfishman** » Sat May 21, 2005 8:13 pm

How difficult is it to install a rack in a 86? I think I may need to start putting some money into my wagon since I'm over 300K and have only done CV's up front. I'm also wondering what other work should be done on the front end/suspention with this high of milage?

3A-C Power · Post by **3A-C Power** » Sun May 22, 2005 5:50 pm

My whole front end was shot at 200,000. I shouldn't say all of it, but I changed everything anyways. Both inner tie rod ends were bad, as was the left ball joint. Both outer tie rod ends looked okay. The swaybar end bushings and sleeves were worn out to nothing, however the swaybar to frame bushings were still tight. Control arm bushings weren't bad. It seems like the inner tie rod ends and the swaybar end link bushings got the worst of it, so plan on changing those if anything.

dug320 · Post by **dug320** » Mon May 23, 2005 12:07 am

I bought the rack off of ebay. It was a short rack meaning it did not come with the outer tie rods.

Biggest problems

removing one of the power steering lines.
removing and replacing the two bolts beside the steering shaft - ujoint with a small 14 mm socket made it work.

Easy problems

seperating ujoint from rack - unscrew both - slide the ujoint up the shaft.
putting outer tie rods back with the same alignment - measured distances
removing and replacing rack - rotating rack was kind of interesting.

level of difficulty was 6/10

takza · Post by **takza** » Mon May 23, 2005 5:21 am

3A-C Power wrote: Both inner tie rod ends were bad, as was the left ball joint. Both outer tie rod ends looked okay. The swaybar end bushings and sleeves were worn out to nothing, however the swaybar to frame bushings were still tight. Control arm bushings weren't bad. It seems like the inner tie rod ends and the swaybar end link bushings got the worst of it, so plan on changing those if anything.

I couldn't find any looseness in either balljoint...but also replaced both inner tierod ends and the swaybar end bushing set and the swaybar itself (rust)...+200K miles. Also needs the pass side rack end bushing replaced...manual rack.