Dieseling, poor idle. Are they related?
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washfishman
- Newbie
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Sun May 15, 2005 10:28 pm
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washfishman
- Newbie
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Sun May 15, 2005 10:28 pm
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post_a_query
- Newbie
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Wed Apr 13, 2005 9:31 pm
- Location: houston, texas
washfishman,
the turkey wagon had similar behavior. T pie is right... the excess gas delivery is likely your culprit. vaccum leaks might be secondary, so start with the carb, then emmisions controls if you have the factory service manual, it gives you about 40 pages on the carb and emission parts. that gives you a fair idea of what each part is doing, even the carb parts diagrams and checks lend understanding to that "mess" under the hood.
my wagon had issues starting quickly AND your issues... what it was was the AAP (or accessory accelerator pump) with a failing diaphragm. go off and get yourself the $30 carb kit and FSM if you have niether and do the reading, then contemplative reasoning and do the diagnostic checks perscribed. with the bits supplied in the kit, you can replace the faulty bits. there isn't any easy way out dealing with old cars that have well, gotten old.
best of luck! keep us posted
rromig
the turkey wagon had similar behavior. T pie is right... the excess gas delivery is likely your culprit. vaccum leaks might be secondary, so start with the carb, then emmisions controls if you have the factory service manual, it gives you about 40 pages on the carb and emission parts. that gives you a fair idea of what each part is doing, even the carb parts diagrams and checks lend understanding to that "mess" under the hood.
my wagon had issues starting quickly AND your issues... what it was was the AAP (or accessory accelerator pump) with a failing diaphragm. go off and get yourself the $30 carb kit and FSM if you have niether and do the reading, then contemplative reasoning and do the diagnostic checks perscribed. with the bits supplied in the kit, you can replace the faulty bits. there isn't any easy way out dealing with old cars that have well, gotten old.
best of luck! keep us posted
rromig
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washfishman
- Newbie
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Sun May 15, 2005 10:28 pm
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post_a_query
- Newbie
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Wed Apr 13, 2005 9:31 pm
- Location: houston, texas
hands down:
toyota service manual... chiltons are generalized and expect a bit of knowledge about the car in front of you and why the systems work. in my opinion, you could use a ford taurus book to about the same success. they are generalized and i'd swear that the editors cut-n-paste the same paragraphs from the pool of similar car set-ups.
the toyota factory service manual will give you a chart of each part, the abbreviation (not part #'s, get a parts list if you can find one) and what its function is. the next pages will have diagrams for every model exported, the vacuum lines and direction of flow, the seperate parts then are listed with how to diagnose them with lines like:
using 43 psi, check valve closure leading from whoozit to whatzit , when functioning properly expect this result......
now open the chilton and check for engineers' drawings and step-by-steps. mine were all kinda lame from my first pinto to the one that came under the seat of my wife's subaru.
good luck!
rromig
toyota service manual... chiltons are generalized and expect a bit of knowledge about the car in front of you and why the systems work. in my opinion, you could use a ford taurus book to about the same success. they are generalized and i'd swear that the editors cut-n-paste the same paragraphs from the pool of similar car set-ups.
the toyota factory service manual will give you a chart of each part, the abbreviation (not part #'s, get a parts list if you can find one) and what its function is. the next pages will have diagrams for every model exported, the vacuum lines and direction of flow, the seperate parts then are listed with how to diagnose them with lines like:
using 43 psi, check valve closure leading from whoozit to whatzit , when functioning properly expect this result......
now open the chilton and check for engineers' drawings and step-by-steps. mine were all kinda lame from my first pinto to the one that came under the seat of my wife's subaru.
good luck!
rromig
As the saying goes...Chiltons aren't worth the paper they are printed on....unless you're cold. Then they are good for starting a fire.
Go to the home page of this site and go into the TECHNICAL INFO section. There you can download your own copy of the FSM. It's priceless. For some reason I can't access the home page from the forum. I have to type in the web address tercel4wd.com to get to it.
Go to the home page of this site and go into the TECHNICAL INFO section. There you can download your own copy of the FSM. It's priceless. For some reason I can't access the home page from the forum. I have to type in the web address tercel4wd.com to get to it.
Washfishman,
I had the same problem on my 83. There is an idle mix adjustment screw that closes off the fuel circuit to the barrels. I think the circuit is open to the barrels bellow the butterfly valve. Apparently the engine has enough vacuum to pull fuel through this circuit even when the carb is shut off at the prime and secondary cutoff valves( you might want to check that they are working also). I just leaned out the idle mixture and the dieseling stopped. I think I had to adjust the idle speed at the same time. The screw is a PIA to reach-behind the EGR valve-I cut the handle off a small screwdriver to fit in the area.
I had the same problem on my 83. There is an idle mix adjustment screw that closes off the fuel circuit to the barrels. I think the circuit is open to the barrels bellow the butterfly valve. Apparently the engine has enough vacuum to pull fuel through this circuit even when the carb is shut off at the prime and secondary cutoff valves( you might want to check that they are working also). I just leaned out the idle mixture and the dieseling stopped. I think I had to adjust the idle speed at the same time. The screw is a PIA to reach-behind the EGR valve-I cut the handle off a small screwdriver to fit in the area.
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