Tuff Tercel Truck

[marlinh]

When you say moisture, is it oil or antifreeze? There shouldn't be any moisture around the new head gasket area.

[Petros]

there should not be moisture anywhere coming from the head gasket, but could be leaking from by-pass tube o-rings or coolant outlet gasket (both are common places to leak).

You should not have to retorque the head.

By the way it runs it sounds like either you got the cam timing installed incorrectly (pull the top timing belt cover and check alignment of sprocket with TDC), or the distributor is off a tooth or two. Both are easy to mess up when replacing the head (I have messed both up more than once, that is why I always double check both before I attempt a first start).

also, double check your firing order on the spark plug wires. there is a procedure for installing the distributor elsewhere on this forum, you need to follow all of the steps. you first set engine at TDC (number one cylinder at top of compression stroke), than verify the distributor rotor is pointing at the number one spark plug position, correct as necessary.

[Rokkatansky]

Thanks for the advice.

Checked the timing adjustments.
TDC is on the middle arrow through the peep hole and the crank is lined up on 5 degree's.
The distributor leads are 1342 clockwise on the dizzy from front of motor.
Had a mech around yesterday and he got it started, sounded really bad on idle and reved high randomly and the carby no matter how much I pumped it would not respond.
He set the dizzy all the way to achieve this bad result.
I readjusted the dizzy today to original position where a mark was left and the car jus wont start.
Got new leads yesterday and cleaned the cap and points.
This car pretty much has nearly every thing in the engine recoed or replaced on it, thus why it wont start is percular.
I think it would be something simple, since it's usually the case.

[Petros]

looks like the cam if off a tooth. the crank should read "O" when the middle arrow lines up with the cam peep hole. You can verify TDC through the #1 spark plug hole where you can see the piston with a flash light. after you reposition cam belt one sprocket tooth, rotate the engine through two revolutions and double check the crank and cam are still correctly timed with "O" on the pulley mark and the center pointer is lined up with the peep hole on the cam sprocket.

Once you correct the timing belt on the cam, you should double check distributor position (changing cam timing will affect spark timing). Remove the distributor to reset that correctly if necessary. there is a thread on this forum telling how to do that. In short, with engine at TDC on #1 cylinder install distributor so the rotor points at number one spark plug wire (make sure the distributor is all the way in when you check this, because the rotor moves as you insert it because of the gear helix).

with the crank and cam at TDC, the distributor rotor pointing at #1 spark plug wire it will start. than you have to set the spark timing with a timing light. Or you can trial and error the advance "by ear" with up hill runs at full throttle, back off the timing if you get ping or knock from pre-ignition.

It will start once you get all the bits on correctly, you are not far way from having it running properly. just think through what you are doing and you can fix it and have it running like new again shortly.

[Rokkatansky]

Yee Ha!!
Thank you PETROS!, if I could get you a beer I bloody well would get ya two dammit!
It started now it's revving high so I shut it down.
around 5-6000 rpm.
What would that be the problem there?
I'll check out the cables.

[Rokkatansky]

Also, someone ripped my windscreen wiper rotor off.
Does any one know if another model fits or if I can fabricate?

[Petros]

check for throttle cable tension (that it allows the throttle to fully return), check the cold fast idle is adjusted properly, check your regular idle is backed off to the correct amount, check your vacuum lines are routed properly, check for any disconnected vac lines or large vacuum leaks.

I am pretty sure the wiper motor and much of the components are common with both the same year celica and corolla, perhaps even the MR2.

Well if I am ever in your neighborhood I will collect on those beers.

[Rokkatansky]

Took the Terc for a run and on examination after valves done:

Runs well on open freeway.
A bit of smoke came out at high revs yet only initially, ran it at around 4000 on 3rd gear and around 4000 rpm on second for a bit to see what happens, it cleared up an the smoke stopped.
Assuming that is just running in.
The temp gauge on idle while at traffic lights started going up, this was interesting since as soon as I started running it back on the freeway the temp went down to where it should be, around the half way and just below mark.
What would cause this,anyone know?
There is a slight oil leak around distributor, suspecting seal around distributor.

LIke to do a hot run (since the weather here down under is quite hot) on the open road to see how the terc goes.

Thank you all for the help so for.

[Petros]

was that a rebuilt engine, or just a used one? old valve stem seals will give off occasional puff of whitish/blue smoke. No real harm, it might get better as you drive it more. you also might have worn piston rings. You can also try some seal conditioner additive to the motor oil, should soften the seals and improve oil control. Otherwise ignor it unless it gets bad.

check to see that your radiator fan is working, and the thermal switch for it turns it on when the temp starts to rise. It is normal for the temp to climb to about 2/3 of the ay up the gauge when in traffic or running but not moving, and than the fan comes on and the temp rapidly drops to just below half way. If the fan does not come on watch the temp very closely when in heavy traffic, use the heater fan to keep the temp down. If the temp gets up near the red part of the gauge you risk head gasket damage, keep the temp in the middle third of the gauge. the temp should stay down fine when the car is moving, the natural airflow is more than enough to keep it cool. It is when you are stopped that you risk head gasket damage IF your fan does not come on. you should find the reason it is not working so you do not forget one day and allow it over heat. most likely it is the thermal switch in the bottom of the radiator. to test the fan unplug the thermal switch, it should default to always running (with ignition key in "run" position, or engine running).

good luck

[Rokkatansky]

Thanks Petros I wiggled the wire and it works now.
Does go just above centre mark still, yet doesn't go any higher so it's so far so good.
I have grinding sound coming from under the rocker cover, I suspect camshaft bearings is this an easy fix?
Do I need a special tool? I have a puller.

[Petros]

there should not be anything grinding under the cover. better get a look at it. the cam rides in the aluminum head, if they run dry of oil it will damage the bore. the only fix is to remove the head and have the cam shaft bore redone in a machine shop.

perhaps your fuel pump is making the noise? better track it down and make sure nothing really bad is happening.