Strange acceleration issue

[GotToyota?]

I've noticed a strange acceleration issue lately. Basically if I'm going up a hill or anything other than a straight road, when pushing the gas pedal to accelerate the revs will climb but the car won't really accelerate at all. If I do it's not much. On bigger hills when I down shift to attempt to pass somebody I will be in a lower gear but when I give it a decent amount of gas it does nothing but basically rev and not accelerate. It's similar to when you floor the gas pedal in an automatic and the RPMS roar but in this case nothing really happens.

Any ideas?

[larry mcgrath]

sounds like its time for a clutch,pressure plate and through out bearing. Larry

[GotToyota?]

That's what I figured but sadly I was hoping I wouldn't have to hear that.

I don't have $500+ to throw at a mechanic. Could it be done in a garage over the course of a weekend?

[ARCHINSTL]

Yup - the only time that ever happened to me was on my '52 Morris Minor MM back in the late '50s.
Occasionally, at stop lights on really steep hills I would let out the clutch and slowly roll backwards, thereby getting baleful looks and inappropriate shouts from the drivers behind me when they had to back up. Then I would have to wait until there were no vehicles behind me, roll backwards to the base of the hill and, timing the lights, goose it on the level and charge up the hill. I got pretty good at it.
Tom M.

P.S. Of course, goosing a '52 Morris flathead 4 with all of 27 clapped-out HP was relative, you understand...

[dlb]

i agree on the clutch diagnosis. luckily, being a 2wd, your trans is much smaller and easier to get in and out than our 4wd trans. it should be covered pretty well in the FSM. give yourself the weekend, and have the flywheel machined before you put the new clutch on. otherwise it can wear out the new clutch prematurely.

while you're there, you might want to replace the engine rear main seal on the crankshaft. i HATE doing seals and have pretty bad luck with them so i didn't touch the rear main in my wife's civic when i did the clutch and trans work, but i fully acknowledge it's a good idea to replace them while you're there.

[GotToyota?]

Looks like I'll be attempting this in the Spring then.

Any recommendations on a replacement flywheel? I'd rather just spend $50ish and get a new one. Rock Auto has one for $43 but it shows 8/86 and up. Mine was produced in 85.

[TURTCEL]

A resurface on your flywheel will be totally fine, unless you have major hot spots or cracks. New aftermarket parts are never as good as factory parts even if you have to rebuild or turn a factory part. Just my opinion.

Peace

[rer233]

My guess is that's for a gen 3 tercel-prob different from your car. However gen 2 2wd and 4wd are the same- maybe someone near you has one available you can have machined for a spring installation. I've got one, but i'm in maryland and shipping would be prohibitive.

Good luck!

[GotToyota?]

The issue is that I'd only have a weekend to complete the job and I don't have time to wait on a flywheel to be resurfaced.

[TURTCEL]

Understandable.

Peace

[larry mcgrath]

You should check in your area, a lot of auto part stores will resurface your flywheel wile you wait.its not a complicated process,quite simular to turning brake rotors. I agree with every one here try to stick with the factory flywheel ,it's the correct weight for this set up,and you wont find one as well built. Larry

[Petros]

I would not pay a shop to replace the clutch, do it yourself, saves lots of money and likely you can do a better job. The clutch is an easy change out in one day, presuming you don't break anything in the process (not usually), new parts will only be about $100. Get a clutch kit from Rockauto, or NAPA on-line (much cheaper to order it from the NAPA web site than to order it in person). I highly recommend getting a new rear main seal too, only about $12.

I usually do not have the flywheel resurfaces if it was in good shape and not overheated. Sounds like that has already happened with you however, do not allow the clutch to slip while driving or you risk further damage to the flywheel. I have also taken a sanding disk to the flywheel clutch surface when I did not have time to get it resurfaced, it is a lot of work because the cast iron has been work hardened, likely turned blueish and has metal transfer. You can skip the resurfacing but it is risky that you will have clutch chatter, which will ruin the new clutch. Most repair shops always resurface the flywheel, I only do it if the flywheel has heat damage. Usually it is fine to reuse it as is, if there is no heat damage to the flywheel. heat damage is discoloration in bluish or yellowish spots, metal transfer (smeared and melted looking surface), cracks or deep grooves. allowing the clutch to slip so much when it is worn out will cause damage to flywheel, the rivets on the clutch will cut into the flywheel and also the slipping causes overheating of the surface.

You can not wait until the spring, your clutch is shot now and you should replace it ASAP or it will leave you completely stuck. You also run the risk of doing further damage to your flywheel and warping it, or even worse, have the clutch come apart and it breaks up and does extensive damage to the transmission case and bell housing (I have seen it).

Many places will resurface the flywheel while you wait, so find an auto machine shop in your area that does flywheels and make arrangements to have it done on the day you get it out. Your alternative is to buy a used flywheel from a wrecking yard or another forum member, if it is good you do not need a resurface, if it is overheated than it should be resurfaced before you install it with the new clutch.

You will need pressure plate assembly, clutch disk, through out bearing and pilot bearing, (these come in most clutch kits, alone with spline shaft grease and a pilot tool), and gear oil. Plus the rear main seal if you replace it. If you do not have a pilot tool you can use the input shaft out of the trans (it just means a little extra work to remove it from the bell housing). Do not attempt to install the clutch without a pilot tool (I have done it, but it is risky and difficult to get the correct alignment). You might also want to rent a bearing puller to replace the pilot bearing from the back of the crank, there are several ways to remove it, but a proper puller is the easiest. Ask at an autozone or Napa store about renting a bearing puller for the pilot bearing.

Order your parts now and make room in your schedule to take care of it over a weekend. Make sure you have all the tools you need to do the job before you start, along with the parts. It can be done in one day, but certainly over a weekend even for a first timer. Get started on it friday night, if you get the trans, clutch and flywheel out late friday, that gives you most of saturday to get the flywheel resurfaced. I have pulled in a transmission from the T4wd in under an hour (but I have done it a number of times), the 2wd trans should be much faster to remove, and replaced.

Good luck.