Manual transmission maintenance

[irowiki]

Finally got around to draining the old fluid!

Put 50/50 Type F ATF and gear oil in for a flush, drove it around a little more than I should. Will drain it tomorrow.

The old stuff was nasty. Already an improvement in shifting up and down into 2nd and 3rd.

[irowiki]

Update #2, drained out the ATF/GL combo, it was dirty but not terribly so. No big chunks of metal on the magnets, just little shavings. Put fresh GL in, and what a difference!

There's a small clunk into second when it is cold if the clutch is not 100% in (I think the clutch may need adjusted but that is something for another day) but nothing like it was before, pretty much smooth shifting all around!

My split CV boots are still trucking!

[freespirit]

I have a 86 manual transmission 4wd. If I'm reading the manual correctly it appears that you refill the transmission with the two front filler bolts removed and only fill the tranny through the rear most filler hole. I am looking at page mt70 in the manual. I assume when the oil comes out of the front filler tubes you then put in the plug bolt of the one that is weaping out and then wait for the next front filler hole to do the same and then keep filling until the rear filler hole starts to overfill and then put that plug in.
I assume you get the Tercel level first by puttin a level on the door sill first before the filling operation.
Thanks for input! Tom C.

[dlb]

hey freespirit. i fill the manual trans from the fill plug just behind the driver side CV axle. i just try to keep the car pretty level, or the front end a big higher even, and fill until the gear oil starts to come out the fill hole. i measure what i put in so that i know it's the correct amount, 3.9 L, and make sure to keep the rear drain plug unscrewed 7-8 turns, like the manual specifies.

[freespirit]

Thanks that's a lot easier than having to fill it from the rear filler hole.
While I was looking at the steering rack I noticed that the two boots on the rack have a small slit in the bottom of each boot. Is there an easy remedy for fixing this or maybe I just wait until I have to repair or replace something else on the rack like the tie rod? Thanks, Tom

[dlb]

do you mean the steering rack boots are torn? if so, i would replace them. with the constant compression/extension of the boots, i don't think any liquid sealant or duct tape would stick for very long. and once grit gets in, it will wear out the inner tie rod (aka rack end) pretty quick.

[Petros]

it is not a panic to replace the steering rack boots, there is an inner seal on the rack. however if grit and dust gets inside the boot it could eventually damage the inner seal, which means either rebuilding or replacing the rack, so it is best if you replaced the boot as soon as you get a chance. I have bought something like 12 or 13 Tercel4wd fixers over the years, almost all of them had bad boots, and were driven that way by their previous owners. Yet all of the racks were still fine, I replaced the boots before I sold the cars in most cases.

[freespirit]

Since I still have the car up on ramps what is the easiest way to replace the steering rack boots as I don't think there are split replacement boots which I doubt would be any good anyways? Thanks

[dlb]

easiest way to replace the boots is to liberally paint the threaded portion where the inner and outer tie rods meet and then remove the outer tie rod. the boot can then be slipped on and off. once you're done, thread the outer tie rod in just to where the paint marks meet. that way it won't change your alignment.

[freespirit]

I assume I will have to get a puller to remove the outer tie rod or is there any other way.

[c_j]

spamming this thread with transmission drain plug size information.

Left to right:

1. front differential; 18mm x 1.5pitch x 12mm long and 24mm head; magnetic; aluminum washer,
2. transmission (middle); 18mm x 1.5pitch x 12mm long and 19mm head ; molded rubber/steel washer (aftermarket plug shown - OEM is same as #1)
3. transmission (rear); 14mm x 1.5pitch x 30mm long and 19mm head; aluminum washer.

transmission_drain_plugs.jpg

FYI: a 15/16" wrench or socket works fine in place of a 24mm (15/16" = ~23.8mm)

[dlb]

Left to right:

1. front differential; 18mm x 1.5pitch x 12mm long and 24mm head; magnetic; aluminum washer,
2. transmission (middle); 18mm x 1.5pitch x 12mm long and 19mm head ; molded rubber/steel washer (aftermarket plug shown - OEM is same as #1)
3. transmission (rear); 14mm x 1.5pitch x 30mm long and 19mm head; aluminum washer.

transmission_drain_plugs.jpg

that's interesting. all the terc transmissions i've done oil changes on had the left plug (24 mm, magnetic) for the front two drain holes. i wonder if the plug in the middle is an aftermarket one.

I assume I will have to get a puller to remove the outer tie rod or is there any other way.

this is off-topic but anyway, i use a puller to break the tie rod out of the steering knuckle, or just undo the nut a bit and smash it with a big hammer. unthreading the outer tie rod from the inner can be a bear, though. use lots of penetrating oil and heat, if you have it.

[Petros]

you do not need a puller, you whack the side of the lever arm end hard with a sledge where the taper sleeve is located. The shock wave through the part pops out the tapered sleeve. Easy, and no damage to any of the parts. I would not recommend smashing down on the nut if you intend to reuse the tie rod end, you will likely damage the threads before it comes loose this way. the "pickle fork" removing tool works well too but it will damage the boot, so it is only okay if intend to replace the tie-rod end.

the biggest problem is getting the threaded sleeve adjuster to break free. I have always had to put the arm in a big vise, soak in ATF over night, and than put a big pipe wrench on the sleeve and get it to unscrew. adding heat with a torch is the final tool to get it to break free. takes much effort.

[freespirit]

I'm going to do both steering rack boots as they both have a tear in them. I'm glad to see that I won't have to get a puller to remove the outer tie rod ends. I just need to be sure I know what the lever arm is and what the taper sleeve is as I don't see a diagram of the parts in the manual. Please give me a place to look at so I don't hit the wrong spot.

[dlb]

i think petros just means that you hit the side of the steering knuckle that the stud of the outer tie rod sits in. i have only had that technique work if i put a load on the end of the stud using a puller but it should work fine if the stud is not too jammed in there.

i've had no problems with hitting the stud to knock it out of the steering knuckle but same as above, it's only good if the stud is not really stuck in there. if it is, you will need a puller. pullers are cheap, and i have used mine countless times, so i'm a big fan of them.